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Yes and no. The pentastar is, in the long run, VERY sensitive to oil weight, type, and level. The engine uses oil to control the valve timing, lube the chain, cool the pistons, and the oil pump is variable displacement so it's sensitive to oil weight too. Do NOT run anything but 5w20.

Your engine came from the factory with Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 full synthetic. My opinion is that there's no good reason to run anything else. This oil is $26 for 5 qt. at Walmart. You will need about 5.5 qt. per oil change. If you want to use another brand, just make sure it meets Chrysler's MS spec and you should be ok.

Search the forum for "Topside oil change" if you want to find out how to change it yourself from the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Synth oil

I thought it came with non-synthetic oil. Which I used regular oil and changed recently. Will change to synth this week, Thanks
 

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Mine also used 5.25 something quarts to bring it to the top of the hashmarks on the dipper.
6 would have been overfill even though the book says 6.
 

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Did you guys check it before or after you started it? I think the filter would use about 3/4 of a quart...then again my driveway is on an incline...maybe it's enough to make my dipstick off.
 

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I'm sure theres a definitive answer to this, but when i change the oil i suck it out through the dipstick, then pour all 5 qt in from the penz platinum bottle. Then i put in the new filter. I start the engine and let it run for 30 sec. It usually takes about .25 to .5 qt to get it extactly to the top of the dip bullet. I check it several times to make sure its exact - not because im OCD, but because someday its going to start burning oil and i want exact consumption rates.

As discussed in other oil threads, this engine will not tolerate running low or high on oil very well. The dumb design of the dipstick also makes it very hard to check. If its off the end of the stick, it could be an ounce low or 3 qts low and you wouldnt know.
 

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Did you guys check it before or after you started it? I think the filter would use about 3/4 of a quart...then again my driveway is on an incline...maybe it's enough to make my dipstick off.
mine waz about a quarter way up the dipper before i started on level ground
 

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Hints from my first oil change for other virgins

Did my first oil change yesterday at about 5600 miles because 3,000 is beyond cautious and 10,000 is scary. That was my logic and I am stickin' to it. Mobile super synthetic meets the Chrysler MS-6395 standard. That and 5W-20 are your important specs.

The set up is quite unconventional to me so there was a learning curve but after a few simple details, it was a breeze. For those who have not ventured into this yet, the filter is a paper element only, which is housed in an upside down cup that is screwed off and screwed back on for the life of the engine. It is on top under the hood, not underneath. For many of you this is old news but for guys like me who drive vehicles for 10 years at a time, this is all new. Here is some advice to help the latter.

#1- Pop the hood. The filter is to the left behind the dipstick. Look for a black plastic cup with a hex nut molded in on top. Wipe the area clean so crud does not fall in when you unscrew this. I used a 15/16 wrench which I cut the length in half to make a shorty to unscrew the filter canister. 24mm is surely the perfect wrench for this but 15/16 is only a few thousandths off so no worries. Righty tighty, lefty loosey, take off the cup.

#2- You are now looking at your paper filter element. It is dirty so you are bummed out but that is why you are changing it so no worries. Pull straight up and it pops out. unlike old-school vehicles, changing the filter does not change the amount of oil needed for the oil change process. You need between 5-6 quarts whether you change the filter or not.

#3- Your new filter comes with a new o-ring. This goes on the plastic cup. Peel off the old one, put on the new one. There is no way around it.....think condom. And like a condom 1 o-ring is mandatory. 0 is a big problem, and 2 is also a problem. Make sure you have 1 and only 1 o-ring on the canister before replacing. I choose to oil up the O-ring with a drop or two of oil from the old filter so it slides and seats nicely when turned in place.

#4- Match the new filter to the old side by side to be sure that is correct. Push it down into place. It snaps right in.

#5- Screw the plastic canister back on. Do not over-tighten this.

#6- One does not need to elevate the van to remove the oil plug. From the front of the van, lay down and reach to the back of the oil pan and you will feel the drain plug exactly where you think it should be. Your 13mm wrench is the correct one for this. I saw some discussion about beer bellies getting in the way and I can assure you that is not the case. (pun intended). The plug is not far back.

#7- Drain it, put the plug in, fill it back up. Almost done but one more thing....

#8- The Promaster has a built in oil-change "clock" which monitors and reminds you when you need a new oil change. This needs to be reset as follows:

a- Turn the key to the on position but do not start.
b- Depress the accelerator 3 times all the way to the floor slowly but also within 10 seconds total time.
c- Repeat the process just to be sure you reset it. An oil change warning is annoying if you are exactly halfway in between changes and it pops up every time you turn your truck on.

It was a piece of cake once I understood the filter type and location. Per another thread, I cut my old filter apart to look for metal particles and contaminants and I did not see anything.
 

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Nice write-up/description!

You certainly will help take the "fear" out of changing the oil for some folks! :D:D:D
 

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Oil - I used Conklin products

Conklin products are oil products on steroids. My mileage increased as well. Great performance. Use it in all my vehicles.
 

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The correct weight is 5w20. We talked about this in another thread and concluded Mobil doesnt want to pay the spiff to have FCA approve mobil 1. Im sure its fine and would meet or exceed the spec, but it would void the warranty. The factory and dealers use penzoil platinum, which is a full synthetic and costs $26 for 5 qts. I cant see good reason to use anything else.
 

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Use the Chrysler-Standard-Number MS 6395 or the Fiat-Standard-Number 9.55535-CR1 to find the Engine-Oil for the 3.6L Pentastar VVT V6 Engine


If no SAE 5W-20 engine oil is available in these standards, an SAE 5W-30 engine oil can be used with the said standards.
 

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So, it's been three years since a post in this thread. I just had my oil changed at my RAM dealer and they used part # 68258687-AA which I'm assuming from a web search is Pennzoil Gold, synthetic blend. Does it matter? If I start doing my own oil changes (pretty likely) should I continue to use this, or should I go with the Pennzoil Platinum as mentioned in this thread. Scientifically, does it matter?
 

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Ive been using either the Pennzoil Platinum or the Mobil 5w-20 synthetic (whatever is on sale) for 105k miles and my Promaster is still smiling.
 

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You can't go wrong if you use: approved, right weight and most important change the oil.

Stuff goes on sale all the time.

Dealer cost 2016
68258687-AA gal $12.80 qt $3.20
 

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Any oil tht meets these spec's for the 3.6l Pentastar
API Certified SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil
Material Standard MS-6395
Refer to your engine oil filler cap for correct SAE grade.

The Diesel uses a different spec'ed oil and uses the synthetic euro L
 
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