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Swivel seats. Is this normal?

15K views 30 replies 13 participants last post by  keeponvaning 
#1 ·
I installed the SwivelsRUs seats yesterday. Install was fairly simple. Remove six bolts, clip zip tie, and unclip wiring clips, remove seat, install base, turn to access bolts, screw in to bottom plate, attach seat, reconnect wiring.

Or at least I thought it was that easy.

On both seats the silver metal attachment that previously guided the seats when sliding forward and backward were catching and not allowing the seat to rotate. It's a required piece for the depth and position of the seat belt so I couldn't remove it. I did take the grinder to it and cut off that piece. I'm a little worried I did something wrong though since I haven't read of anyone else commenting on this.

As a side note, as shown, I tried to use all 6 supplied bolts to reattach the seat. I found it would not slide with the inside two bolts so I believe it only uses 4 to reattach the seat.

I will confirm the seats are a bit stiff to rotate and the driver side does hit parking brake if pulled up and new driving height does put my forehead at risk in an accident but with a little repositioning everything works well. I'm pleased just how I didn't mess up cutting these pieces.

Thanks
 

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#2 ·
Are those CTA swivels? I think so and if so it look like the swivel is upside-down????? Mine have the bolts coming up threw and a coated plate on the top they go threw. Show a picture of the fron of the swivel with the red handle showing and we might be able to tell. I did not have any of those issues and did use all 6 bolts.
This one is right side up.
 
#10 ·
About the parking brake...

I did the swivel w/ lowered bases and the seats frame interferes at the second click - BUT on stock height bases it may be able to adjust to factory specs and enjoy swivel without the van trying to roll away (been there, almost done that, nighttime and sleepy, oops)... I believe someone here got the adjustment tuned to swivel w/ brake on.

Factory Service Manual procedure - achieve 18ftlbs force measured in center of PB lever hand grip with fifth detent click engaged, force adjustment via nut/lock nut at splitter yoke where cable splits into two.

I can't say 4th click would be alright or not if that is what it takes, I didn't try readjusting since I knew I had lower bases coming. - but there is a bunch of slack built in so cables snap enough to resist dragging from grit & corrosion.

The PB shoes themselves are not auto-adjusting, there is also a 'star' wheel adjuster for fine adjustment that may pull some additional play out of the lever-pull distance, the OEM check after tweaking the adjuster is simply "hand rotate each rear brake rotor to ensure that the parking brake shoes are not dragging" when cable(s) are slack.

I don't think there is enough play in the cables to adjust brake for lowered bases without reinventing the PB lever mounts. Play with any of the above at your own risk. Especially in regions like mine where PB cable freezing happens.
 
#11 ·
A man (or woman) who can admit their mistakes is to be respected. My motto is “If you must make a mistake, make a new one each time!”
You would have done well to have bought a diesel. KOV is bringing it up because he made a MISTAKE and bought a gasser. Sad.

If you have an automatic just put it in park and don’t use the eBrake! Many here NEVER use it due to it’s tendency to freeze in cold climates.
 
#14 ·
I built my own swivels using 3/16" plate and some 1/2x1" u-channel and I had to cut the bottom off also. It serves no purpose because it doesn't touch anything when sliding the seat and the seat belt retractor has a locking plate. I used the same seat method that I used on my previous Sprinter except that I used a 1 1/2" rigid nipple for the pivot so I could fish the cables through. I welded the nipple to the bottom plate and used lock nuts to secure the top plate.
 
#15 ·
Hi all,
I’m currently running into the same problem with a passenger swivel seat install. The silver metal ‘J’ shaped guide below the seatbelt buckle doesn’t allow the seat to swivel on the base. I would need to install 2 or 3 extra inches of spacers to clear it (making the seat way too high).

I’m considering grinding that piece off like like BulldogAV. Any problems with that? Seems like it might be a safety feature...

Are the 3-way(?) and 6-way seats (which I have) exactly the same design, or could that be part of the problem?

I’m totally stumped right now and can’t find anything else about this on the internet. The manufacturer of my swivel (Amazing Auto) is of no help (as a side note, I strongly encourage avoiding their swivel base)!

Any thoughts or suggestions you might offer would be greatly appreciated.
 
#16 ·
Hi all,
I’m currently running into the same problem with a passenger swivel seat install. The silver metal ‘J’ shaped guide below the seatbelt buckle doesn’t allow the seat to swivel on the base. I would need to install 2 or 3 extra inches of spacers to clear it (making the seat way too high).

I’m considering grinding that piece off like like BulldogAV. Any problems with that? Seems like it might be a safety feature...

Are the 3-way(?) and 6-way seats (which I have) exactly the same design, or could that be part of the problem?

I’m totally stumped right now and can’t find anything else about this on the internet. The manufacturer of my swivel (Amazing Auto) is of no help (as a side note, I strongly encourage avoiding their swivel base)!

Any thoughts or suggestions you might offer would be greatly appreciated.
You realize he had the swivel installed upside down? Perhaps you do too? I'm glad you bumped this as I just received my swivels.
 
#24 ·
Update:

2019 Dodge Ram Promaster 1500. 6-way adjustable seats with lumbar support.

Bought swivel base on eBay from Amazing Auto LLC, Mark Wen.

I decided to bite the bullet and grind off part of the ‘J’ shaped metal piece under the seatbelt buckle (thanks to others on the forum for giving me the confidence to do that!). I think I took off about a 1/2”, so that it was even with the bottom of the black metal (lowest point of seatbelt buckle parts). I’m happy I didn’t need to grind off anything else close to the seat belt buckle attachment.

After doing that, the seatbelt buckle cleared when the seat rotated. Yay!

I also had to trim the bottom of the black plastic cover about 3/8” so that the cover would also clear when rotating.

I bought six sets of 1” bolts, small washers for inside the rails, larger washers for below the swivel base, and lock nuts. With these parts (not included with base) and the quick cuts, the Amazing Auto swivel base was very easy to install.

There is a little bit of play when it is in a locked position and some of the edges are a little sharp. Otherwise, it works great and I am happy with the outcome.

I wish they would have told me what modifications and parts I would need, included some sort of instructions with the product, or that their customer support was a little better. It would have saved me lots of time on-line, trying to size the bolts, and worrying about cutting into anything.

In the end it worked out and hopefully this post can help others down the road.

I posted these same comments, along with a few pictures under a thread for Amazing Auto / SprimterSwivel.com

 
#25 ·
Thanks for the writeup, I'm sure this will help others. Just for reference, I wondered what the price was on those Amazing Auto LLC swivels. I paid 686.00 USD all in for 2 SwivelsRUs CTA swivels and shipping to Virginia. If you bought those at the price I saw of 236 USD shipped, you saved over 100 USD per swivel for your troubles, seems like a good deal for someone especially now that we know, what we know.
 
#28 ·
Well, I came here looking for the torque specs after installing one of my swivels. I found out that I also installed the passenger one upside down!! I do want to thank you for leaving up the post so that others can learn. I just wish I learned before installing mine. :) (now to continue searching for the torque specs for when I flip the swivel and reinstall)
 
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