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When I see videos of people fishing thinsulate into voids and pillars, I don't usually see them adhering the material with 3m90. Is this correct-it just rests in the void?

Are some of these void areas glued and some not?

Wiring and thinsulate in channels-which is done first? Once a channel has thinsulate I imagine it would be hard to fish wiring...

Appreciate any advice, thanks.
 

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I don’t see why you would need to adhere most of it. If there is a sagging area or it partly fills a space then sure, spray it.
 

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No need to use adhesive if threading or poking into enclosed areas. Do not overfill because the Thinsulate(TM) will expand somewhat. Strips folded or rolled work well to fill larger areas. In larger more open areas like lower wall cavities: Arrange pieces to cover the outside skin. Then pull back the perimeter and spray 3M 90 behind between the fibers and van skin. Then push the pieces back in place. Below is a quote from our Transit build showing how I did the rear doors. Did not need to use any 3M 90 on this part of the van.

First step was to thread/drop a string (spectra kite line)fromthe top of the door down to the cavity. This will be used to tug a strip of insulation into the enclosed areas along the top and sides of the window.



Below. I made a loop in the string and attached a washer. Then poked that in with a fish tape and let it drop down along the side of the window.



Next, I removed the washer and put the loop around a folded end of a strip of Thinsulate. The end needs to be tapered so I wrapped it once with some cloth electrical tape.



Then gently tugged the string and fed the strip of Thinsulate into the space. Keeping the strip folded over so it slides in easily.



Until it came out the top at which point I cut off the end with scissors. Then I used poking stick to distribute the Thinsulate into the area a little better.



Then proceeded with the otherside. (below)





The lower areas was a matter of cutting a few pieces and placing them in the door cavity. No spray adhesive needed. Also installed some 6.5" speakers using our CNC'd adapters. I was able to feed the speaker wire through the boot by detaching it at the door, removing the tape wrapped around the end, pulling it (the boot) out straight into the door cavity and then poking the wire through and into the D-pillar with a fish tape.

 
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