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Discussion Starter #1
I'm finally getting around to strapping/framing out my walls and ceiling. For a variety of reasons, I am not planning on attaching overhead cabinets and other high items directly to the van skin. Well-I may anchor a couple with long self tapping screws through the studs, but generally I will be going wood to wood.

Question 1: I see that many use TEK type self tapping screws. My experience with TEK screws is that they work hard to get started, and then once they bite they drive all the way in a split second. Any tips with these? Any reason I should use regular sheetmetal screws instead of self tapping TEK screws?

Question 2: What is the best way to efficiently flush-mount the screw heads? I feel that I could simply drive them a bit deeper into the pine studs-is there a good reason to take the time to use a countersink bit instead?

Cheers,

Kipp
 

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I'm finally getting around to strapping/framing out my walls and ceiling. For a variety of reasons, I am not planning on attaching overhead cabinets and other high items directly to the van skin. Well-I may anchor a couple with long self tapping screws through the studs, but generally I will be going wood to wood.

Question 1: I see that many use TEK type self tapping screws. My experience with TEK screws is that they work hard to get started, and then once they bite they drive all the way in a split second. Any tips with these? Any reason I should use regular sheetmetal screws instead of self tapping TEK screws?

Question 2: What is the best way to efficiently flush-mount the screw heads? I feel that I could simply drive them a bit deeper into the pine studs-is there a good reason to take the time to use a countersink bit instead?

Cheers,

Kipp


I used quite a few self tapping screws for my build. I found it easiest to have a drill with a drill bit installed to predrill first before running in the self tappers.

As for head depth - If you're able to pull the screw head flush without stripping out the metal and without splitting the wood, then that's the quickest. If you find you can't do either of the above, then hit them with a countersink first.

You say pine studs - what are you using as your framing?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I used quite a few self tapping screws for my build. I found it easiest to have a drill with a drill bit installed to predrill first before running in the self tappers.

As for head depth - If you're able to pull the screw head flush without stripping out the metal and without splitting the wood, then that's the quickest. If you find you can't do either of the above, then hit them with a countersink first.

You say pine studs - what are you using as your framing?
Using the pine studs FOR the framing...? A bit confused by your question.

Thanks for the idea re: pre drilling. I noticed this myself. Maybe I just won't use self tapping screws at all and just use standard sheetmetal ones.
 

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i dialed the torque setting on my ryobi drill to 2 or 3 to prevent stripping then up it for final tightning. if ur doing a lot of predrills i'd have a second drill for screws.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Just want to post a quick update. After much research, I decided initially to use rivnuts and machine screws. However, I'm wary of rivnuts-you're in a sad place when one spins or the threads strip while you're screwing a board in. I picked up some sheetmetal screws as well and decided to try those first.

Well, the sheetmetal screws worked perfectly! I spoke with my local metalworker and he assured me that sheetmetal screws are quite strong and will last in the long-run provided they are not over torqued. He recommended beefy screws, and recommended pre drilling for non self tapping if I wanted precision.

I used #12 stainless pan head screws, and drilled countersinks. My roof supports turned out really well, and strong!

Thanks all for the advice, much appreciated!

 

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Not sure if it's applicable for van use, but I came across this HF drill-tap-deburr bit recommended in an electricians forum and bought a set. Might work for tapping machine screws, but bits seem a bit too long to safely use without a depth limiting sleeve/collet as Eddie suggests.

Figured it would work for junction boxes and the like if it didn't work for the van.

https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-drill-tap-deburr-bit-set-95528.html

They have metric too...

https://www.harborfreight.com/metric-drill-tap-deburr-bit-set-95529.html
 

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Curious if you've experienced any creaking yet? I just finished the strapping on the walls and it's creak city. Heard lots of people talk about this coming from t&g panels but not the strapping.
 

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Any Creaking?
 
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