Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,812 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to describe a disturbing recent event.

It was raining--not a hard rain, more like a steady drizzle. We were inside with the doors closed. I starting hearing water dripping, then saw water droplets coming out of the channel above the slider--through the holes above the INSIDE rear of the slider. I was absolutely horrified. The only source I could come up with was a leak in the roof seam above that spot.

I spent the night saying Hallelujah that I had used Thinsulate instead of polyiso or foam, but contemplating dismantling to remove the ezcool I wish I hadn't used. Contemplate: if there is a leak from above--be it seam failure or a leaking screw--with foam, polyiso, or ezcool, moisture could be trapped and could do a lot of damage before it made its way to a place where it would be discovered.

The next morning, I discovered that the slider was not completely closed. I'm guessing that moisture trickled in above the slider's top rail. I have not seen any moisture in subsequent rains.

Thinsulate is the only insulation commonly used here that will passively allow the moisture to escape, as it did in my case. If I had filled that channel with foam, the moisture would still be there.
 

·
Registered
2015 Promaster 3500 159 Ext gas silver
Joined
·
192 Posts
On the other hand proper installation of polyurethane foam can completely seal a space and not provide an absorbent material for water to leak into. There are pros and cons to almost any solution and I've used Thinsulate in areas foam would be unsuitable such as over the cab and places where insulation may need to be removed for access.
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,812 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
On the other hand proper installation of polyurethane foam can completely seal a space and not provide an absorbent material for water to leak into.
You may be correct about the solid foam. But contemplate a sheet of polyiso affixed to the ceiling with strips of Great stuff, and the edges sealed with Great Stuff. Now put an undetected leaking screw hole in the roof metal above that sheet. Moisture comes in, spreads over the surface of the polyiso and lingers, trapped by the Great Stuff.
 

·
Registered
MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
Joined
·
4,562 Posts
Definitely something to think about.

I'm using polyiso but my approach is to have an air gap between the insulation and metal, I know I have air flow from one rocker panel across the roof to the other rocker panel. i don't think the spray foam bead is perfect, maybe I'll pour a cup of water on top the the polyiso and see if it leaks out. If not a 1/8" drain hole maybe needed. Maybe a larger hole with thinsulate stuff into it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
The next morning, I discovered that the slider was not completely closed. I'm guessing that moisture trickled in above the slider's top rail. I have not seen any moisture in subsequent rains.
Had something similar happen just recently that had me considering something else entirely. I was inside my uninsulated van contemplating my next moves, when it started raining quite heavily. I wasn't sure how long it was going to last and dinner was nearly on the table, so I decided to chance it and open the slider and venture outside. Well of course water poured onto the floor of the van, and I thought how silly that there was no significant lip or cover over top of the opening.

I can understand it on front doors, because the opening is relatively small and the vertical pitch is quite steep, but the rear doors have a bit of a lip, yet the slider which takes a bit more time to close properly has nothing. In fact the way things are angled and the proximity of the opening to the top of the roof, it seems to me nearly optimized to funnel as much water in as possible :eek: Was considering what it would take to rig something up. I see those adhesive shower dams in home improvement stores and those wind dams or whatever they are called for the front windows so you can roll your windows down for ventilation. Maybe something like that may help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I am considering this for my sliding door. Looks like it might work well. Anyone else used it? Look up the description on eBay. I could not get the link to paste correctly.

J Rain Gutter Drip Rail WHITE Plastic 3M Peel Stick RV Truck Car Windows Boats
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
I am considering this for my sliding door. Looks like it might work well. Anyone else used it? Look up the description on eBay. I could not get the link to paste correctly.

J Rain Gutter Drip Rail WHITE Plastic 3M Peel Stick RV Truck Car Windows Boats
Thanks. Good catch on the eBay source for this by the foot. There were other options mentioned in a previous thread, but this is cheaper. Wish it came in colours other than black or white though.

I think this is the eBay link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/J-Rain-Gutter-Drip-Rail-WHITE-Plastic-3M-Peel-Stick-RV-Truck-Car-Windows-Boats-/231899057418
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
Thanks guys, apparently I missed that thread. Saves me the trouble of a search. Per colours, it's a shame because acrylics generally come in all sorts of colors. It's supposedly possible to paint them, but it sounds like a huge a PITA.

The following link explains a method among others for painting all sorts of difficult to paint surfaces (I didn't see galvanized steel in there, I have another link for that somewhere)

http://www.overclockers.com/how-to-paint-steel-aluminum-plastic-and-acrylic/

I've noted with interest that cast plastic is often painted by painting the interior of the mold first, and then casting the part. Supposedly makes a strong chemical bond to the plastic. This would explain the deluxe plastic knives and forks I used for 'Merican Thanksgiving appetizers. Almost had me fooled to think they were flatware, but the heft was wrong ;)
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,812 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I actually have a cover that works quite well, but didn't have it on that day. Much more effective than a gutter would be.

I put a strip of heavy duty Velcro underneath the top lip of the door opening (facing down). To that I attach a piece of lightweight but stiff plastic wide enough to clear the leading edge of the open door so it won't catch. It works well and can even stay on when driving short distances. The weak point is the 3M90 bond between plastic and Velcro, which can be repaired. I store it flat in the overhead compartment.

This is a photo of the prototype that wasn't qiite long enough and had been whipped by 70mph winds a few times:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
Interesting. Maybe a combination of the two approaches... A fixed lip for casual use to which you velcro on the heavy duty one when needed.

Your picture brings up something a little OT that occurred to me in the midst of installing windows (not finished yet, don't ask): Don't people with awning windows have to be awfully careful with opening their passenger's side windows to avoid a potential collision with the slider?

I was considering rigging up an awning flap made out of plexi or twinwalll polycarbonate over the Motion window that lifted with a wedge or cam when you slide the window to the side. On a 159 it looks like you could put a demi-awning on the passenger's side, but it's a complete no-go on a 136.
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,812 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
My understanding is that awning windows are not available for passenger rear for that very reason--which was one factor in my choice of Motion. When you come up with an awning for the Motion, be sure to post. That's one of the conundrums I put myself to sleep with. I've found that the window behind the driver can usually be left open by just putting a towel on the counter. Passenger rear by our pillows is more awkward. Those are really the only two needed--if it's raining, it's probably not hot.

And yes, I'm paying attention to these stick-on permanent lips. Bear in mind, though, that we effectively have a drip channel just inside the lip of the roof. Unless it's raining hard enough to overflow that channel, the stick-on lip is only going to catch what comes from the couple of inches above it. It would have to stick out at least an inch or so to catch what drops straight down into the doorway and into the rail channel above the doorway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
808 Posts
When you come up with an awning for the Motion, be sure to post. That's one of the conundrums I put myself to sleep with.
Sure thing. Yeah, my puzzler is a bit sore on this one-- so I think I'll play around with materials for a while, that's when things occasionally fall into place for me. I'm concerned the flap will buffet while driving which complicates matters.

I've found that the window behind the driver can usually be left open by just putting a towel on the counter. Passenger rear by our pillows is more awkward. Those are really the only two needed--if it's raining, it's probably not hot.
Spoken like a true non-Floridian ;) (who sleeps at two o'clock in the afternoon in Summer anyway?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
876 Posts
Are you sure the water was coming in thru the sliding door? There is a documented issue where the body panel seams on the roof are caulked improperly causing water leaking into the cargo area.

Every PM owner should make themselves familiar with the roof seam and other body leaks issues on the PM, the issues are well documented by DaveNotHome and others in this thread:
http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37570
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,812 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
All I can say is that we have since been in worse rain with no sign of leakage.

EDIT: I checked the roof. Four of the six side seams may be compromised, the one to the rear of the slider being the worst. Rear ones appear to be intact. Eternabond is ordered and I will be removing the ezcool. I'd rather have a brown spot appear on the ceiling than have an undetected leak.

Thank you, afox, for suggesting I check.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,837 Posts
That leaking though documented has been very rare in vans made after 2014. No one is going to look for it when they find the door was not latched! It is really a non issue.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,650 Posts
I’ve discovered every time I leave my sliding door open in the rain, water comes in through the door opening. Any suggestions on how to prevent this from happening? /s
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,650 Posts
Chuckle will prevent it? Does anyone here sell it? I need about 20 sf.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top