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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hey guys just got to building my new 136wb hr van. Ive had the van for 1 month and already started strong. I plan on doing the install myself.
1st installed the bedrug vantred. glad i ordered this instead of the original bedrug,soo easily to clean.
2nd installed max air fan 5100k
3rd install crl windows driver side & slider windows vented windows (vw8406)
3rd installed rear door crl vented windows (vw31031)
4th installed sound deadener (noico 80 mil)
5th installed 3m thinsulate sm600L
6th installed front floor mats (intro-tech hexomat) from amazon

next on the list is rear passenger captain chairs or just sprinter seats. going to weld under floor brackets for the seats.
future plans solar panels, roof rack, cabinets, outside shower 16 gallon water tank. folding stow-away bed, led interior lights, paneling.soo much to do, i need more $$$$$:(:(:(:(
 

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Great Job so far. As for the $ it is often about choices. The Maxxair is two or three thimes as much as a Fantastic Vent, you could have skipped the Noico as it will make little if any difference later when done, thinsulate is a great product but is many times as expensive as polyisocyanurate, and there are better and much cheaper floors than Bedrug. Don’t get me wrong all these are great products but there are other great products that would have left you with coin. If money is an issue ask for alternatives and you can decide if they work for you.
 

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The maxxair air design is far superior to the fantastic design. Being able to run in the rain without a gaudy vent cover is a huge asset. Especially if your build includes solar panels and you care about shading.

The rain sensor on the fantastic is redicoulus. What good is the sensor if it doesn't reopen when it stops raining? Especially, if you have pets in your van that depend on the fan.

Opinion based on experience of running the maxxair in my trailer for the past 3 years.
 

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I understand each of those choices result in different compromises. I have had two Fantastic Vents and they are quieter both running and traveling, lower profile especially with the flat lid, acts as a nice skylight with the clear lid and I paid $114. I understand the differences but the OP seemed to be concerned about prices. I’m sorry if this becomes another **** vent disagreement because I was trying to address the $ concern. He has the MaxxAir and will love it. Personally I have been more than happy with my Fantastic.
I always am amazed that we don’t seem to point out the FEATURES of our choice but trash the other product. I try to avoid that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Rear seats added
These are 20 inch seats recliners and swivels. Company in Stanton,ca . CVC & more. Talk to Alex. They do custom seats for sprinters and transits. Lots of options available
 

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Nice work, keep it up. As like others said good choice on the MaxxAir. We had 3 Fantastic fans on our Airstream and they all gave me troubles. 2 were rain sensors and the other manual. The manual knob kept falling off, and one of the rain sensors was obviously malfunctioned because it would always close as where the other never closed, unless for rain of course. I like the quality and firmest of the MaxxAir better. Following your build.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Just started my electrical build.. Shore power inlet added to the left rear.30amp. Just got xantrex 1000w inverter/charger, victron 100/30 mppt, victron control, 5 led lights, 2 outlets w/ USB install on each side. Looking at 250-300 watt single solar panel and lipo 200ah batteries or 2 agm 200 ah batteries. Saw this on Amazon for lipo .what do u guys think.

https://www.amazon.com/lithium-LiFePO4-Battery-Electric-Batteries/dp/B078JB836N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1546305795&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=orient+power&dpPl=1&dpID=41utCJK4ClL&ref=plSrch
 

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Those are decent cells and should last a while, but there is no BMS. You can add a simple BMS with mosfets or a decent BMS with contactors (more expensive). The cells are also pretty over priced compared to where you can get them:

http://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/Fortune-100Ah-Aluminum-Encased-Battery

But for the price, I'd much rather have Calb cells.

http://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/100Ah-CALB-UL-Certified-Batteries

You can also pick up a mosfet based BMS from the same place:

100 amp: http://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/12V-100A-4S-EV-BMS-Battery-Management-System-Separate
150 amp: http://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/12V-150A-4S-EV-BMS-Battery-Management-System-Separate
200 amp: http://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/12V-200A-4S-EV-BMS-Battery-Management-System-Separate

But with your 1000w inverter if you don't make it out, you'll never see more than 80 amps. However I'd still opt to go with the 150-200amp model.
 

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By the time you buy the BMS and pay the shipping from China you are about a hundred bucks short of Battleborn- I’d spend the $100 and go USA supplier.
 

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By the time you buy the BMS and pay the shipping from China you are about a hundred bucks short of Battleborn- I’d spend the $100 and go USA supplier.
That's true for a 100ah battery, but if you plan on a larger capacity battery, it doesn't makes sense to use drop in. Buy the BMS once instead of for each Battleborn battery.

Plus CALB cells are US stock so shipping won't be that expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Its been awhile since I posted updates on my build....front seats cut the bases 3 inches and added swivels. Rear seats also swivel. Started my cabinet on wheel wells. Hooked up all the wiring and added 2 outlets & 2 USB 12v with on left & right sides of the rear seats. Also added 12v on top of overhead for 12v tv. I decided It was worth the $ to buy the battle born battery. Victron mppt 100/30, 702 charge controller, and Bluetooth. I originally installed a keyline batt isolator under the driver seat but after research it doesnt work with lipo4 battery,soo I had to install a sterling 12v charger...Several switches and fuses were installed between battery, inverter, and isolator. I highly recommend the pd5000 ac/DC box. After checking all the wiring was working properly,I unistalled everything and coated the boxes with duratex coating. Very happy with the textured finish. Installed everything back. Bought 2 200 watt panels from natural resources,LLC. Talk to Matt and he will set you up...no tax and free shipping. Every other place wanted $200 for freight shipping. Each panel was $180. I mounted the panels using unistrut. I used the vantech mounts.carid sells them for $25 for lower and upper mounts. I cut the unistrut inner rail approx 1/2 and installed the panels horizontally. I also coated the roof with henrys coating ..im glad i did. I sent the unistrut & wheels for powder coating. I also have 2 spare tires for baja road trips.. One mounted under and the other on top. I will make a separate area in front of the max fan. I am in the process of making a fairing out of pvc material. Next project is a folding bed frame on the right wheel well, using bike aluminum ramps. 10 gal water tank under the van and water pump for shower after surfing. Adding heating element to the water tank. The wall paneling will be 1/2 cloroplast material.. Also adding e track or l track for the sides and roof. Suspension wise probably going to add bilstein front & rear shocks. So far it has set me back $7200 doing all the work myself...at the end probably $9k...
Soo far its been fun working on the van.

Heres the link to my build
https://postimg.cc/gallery/20mrgk7u8/
 

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We've been looking for a single 2nd row seat that would swivel and recline. We began to think it wasn't possible but you've done it. Can you please share what type seats you've used and any particulars to make them function properly?
 

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Just started my electrical build.. Shore power inlet added to the left rear.30amp.
I like that shore inlet location. I am considering putting it in the bumper cover, but that location deserves a good consideration. It would make it easier to get the cable into the interior as well. Thanks for sharing!
 

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There's a bracket on the inside with little flaps that allow wires to be fed through. So that location is deliberate. Take off the interior plastic panel where you would access the tail light and you will see it.
 

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I like that shore inlet location. I am considering putting it in the bumper cover, but that location deserves a good consideration. It would make it easier to get the cable into the interior as well. Thanks for sharing!
My shore power is on the driver side in front of the rear wheel well. If I did it again, I would consider doing a rear shore power fitting @ the rear.

Pros & Cons to every decision, however I can see an advantage of a hitch mount generator plugged into a rear shore power outlet. Other Pros as well to the rear shore power install.

We use our back doors a lot, so do not want too much stuff back there. Decisions Decisions 🤔🤔
 

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Huge advantage of rear location is when you drive off after forgetting to unplug. I’ve done that twice in the last week or so from the driveway. No harm done.

if we could redo, we would not install in the bumper—it was a huge pain.
 

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There's a bracket on the inside with little flaps that allow wires to be fed through. So that location is deliberate. Take off the interior plastic panel where you would access the tail light and you will see it.
I think the Promaster is a well thought out design like what you discovered here RnR and many other items once you start looking around.

example; It isn’t by chance there is an area on the roof (the high spot), that if properly identified & measured, misses all of the corrugations and allows you to cut the standard 14” x 14” hole to install a roof fan with 2” of flat metal all the way around it (photos on mr build site). That also is deliberate. Way to go Ram
 

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Huge advantage of rear location is when you drive off after forgetting to unplug. I’ve done that twice in the last week or so from the driveway. No harm done.

if we could redo, we would not install in the bumper—it was a huge pain.
😳 Im afraid I will do that one day also.

In aviation there are “Remove Before Flight” tags. Sounds like this is a regular occurrence & you might benefit from a clip on “Remove Shore Power before Drive” tag clipped onto your steering wheel🤓

What has me perplexed is with all that solar magic you even plug in🤔
 

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There's a bracket on the inside with little flaps that allow wires to be fed through. So that location is deliberate. Take off the interior plastic panel where you would access the tail light and you will see it.
Yes, I used that when connecting the wiring for my hitch.
 
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