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Have been having issues with my rear doors and my sliding door on my PM. Has anyone else had the following issues:

Rear door: Outside handle breaks due to the wire inside the door popping off the plastic cable stop/holder.

Side door: Door wont open from the outside, seems to get stuck so you have to get inside the van and push it out for it to open. Also, door very hard to open and close. You have to forcefully slam it.

Has anyone had these issues? Anyway to solve them without going to the dealership?
 

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I had the dealer grease my sliding door and that solved the problem of not opening from the outside. They replaced the rear door latching mechanism under warrantee because of squeaks, haven't had any cable problems - yet!
 

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No, those are warrantee issues, go to the dealer and they should be able to fix them at no cost to you. Others have had these both repaired.
Good Luck
 

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I have to slam my slider pretty hard. Normal?
Probably need a bit of lube on the slides and maybe some adjustments to the stops.
I have to silicone up our slides on the Sprinter every couple months to keep it working well
 

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I have to slam my slider pretty hard. Normal?
Insulation-seals around a doors (All-Doors) keeps van air-tight.
When every-thing (windows and others doors) is closed you need to shut sliding-door really HARD !!!
I did learned this from my old Sprinter van, SAME staff in ProMaster.


Folks tray following TRICK ; Roll-down at least one window, or open passenger door, then shut down sliding-door.


Returning to your question ; Yes it is normal, if everything is sealed.
If you after using my TRICK, it is HARD, then go = warranty
 

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Probably need a bit of lube on the slides and maybe some adjustments to the stops.
I have to silicone up our slides on the Sprinter every couple months to keep it working well
Can you please post pictures of these slides? And their loction? Are they painted slides? Or a plain metal tracks. Is there 1 upper and one lower? What about the middle one on the outside of the van? Is that the only one?
Thanks
 

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NOT all promasters have these.
They don't really work that well, at least on a 159! I always leave the roof vent open unless it's really cold outside. In the good weather I also leave an awning window open then the slider closes with a flick of the wrist (so to speak).
 

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Can you please post pictures of these slides? And their loction? Are they painted slides? Or a plain metal tracks. Is there 1 upper and one lower? What about the middle one on the outside of the van? Is that the only one?
Thanks
I should have said the door slide roller mechanisms. One at top, middle and bottom of the door. I just spray some silicone on them, the rollers, and keep the slide tracks clean...
 

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Try referring Ontario Window reviews who can help you with reviews in different doubts being aroused by people using these window brands. I do the same when I get stuck in confusions like this. Just get a glance through http://www.ontariowindowreviews.com/ so that you have an idea of what you can be upto.
 

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Anyone tried wiring the sliding door sensor "shut"

They don't really work that well, at least on a 159! I always leave the roof vent open unless it's really cold outside. In the good weather I also leave an awning window open then the slider closes with a flick of the wrist (so to speak).
I have a 159" with the vents just behind the rear wheel wells, but the vents to not seem effective.

Leaving a window open helps, but is a bit of a pain. Often after a "medium slam" the door will be closed to the point that, although not fully closed, it does not seem at risk of opening, and I have often driven shortish trips like this and it has never opened. When it is "not fully closed" I can glimpse some small air gaps in places around the perimeter of the door, but it seems latched enough to not come open when driving, and tugging it without unlatching the handle confirms it is "closed enough". I sometimes then just drive with it like that because it seems easier than opening a window closing the door, and then later closing the window, and because slamming it harder will eventually do some other damage. Perhaps the "wind" would be a bit more noisy without a full seal, but its ok if just doing a short trip. But then I have to deal with the annoying warning beep of the sliding door being open repeatedly going off.

In summary, with the air pressure preventing proper door closing the door closure sensor is technology I can live without.

Has anyone accessed the wires in the door sensor and joined the two wires so that the van thinks that the door is always fully closed? Any tips on how anyone did this would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Michael
 

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it seems easier than opening a window closing the door, and then later closing the window
We use a coordinated 'right/left' attack - - open the passenger door with the right, close (not slam) the slider with the left, then a return punch with the right to close the door.
 

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Sliding door will not stay closed, pops open

I have had no end of problems with the Sliding door
When it is below freezing, the sliding door will close, but then pops open.
I am assuming the cable needs lubrication, and is sticking in the cold.
Also my rear door stopped locking, I assume the 12v actuator has failed.
anyone have any experience with either of these problems?
 

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I find that some silicone lube spray on the rollers for the slider side door make it move a lot easier. I do it every three months or so as the seasons change. I do the hinges and stuff too.

They'll collect some dirt over time from the residue. But a old T shirt rag wipes it all off well.
 

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WD40 to get the water out of the cables and then LPS2. We used to have freezing cables on our snow machines and those will work.

"WD-40® literally stands for Water Displacement, 40th formula. That's the name straight out of the lab book used by the chemist who developed the product back in 1953. The chemist, Norm Larsen, was attempting to concoct a formula to prevent corrosion—a task which is done by displacing water.”

"LPS 2® Heavy-Duty Lubricant will penetrate, lubricate, and protect against corrosion. Its strong multipurpose capabilities allow its use in a variety of industrial applications. LPS 2® does not contain harmful chlorinated solvents and it is safe for use on most surfaces."
 
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Thanks to both of you for the tips, I have been keeping the rollers and tracked lubed. The door was closing fine before the temperature dropped to below freezing. (I leave my roof vent open a crack) There is so much moisture in the Northwest that I assume it made it inside the cables, and then froze. It seems like the door has two cables, possibly three. Has anyone managed to lube these cables? It's typically not easy to get fluid in cables, motorcycle shops have a special tool for this.
 
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