The slider door on my 2014 Ram Promaster (2500-high roof, 136" wheel base) won't open from outside. Is this a common problem? The garage I bought it used from in May 2017 has tried repeatedly to fix it. Everytime he thinks it is fixed, it might work once or twice. Then the only way to open it is from inside. I plan to use this door as my main door while camping in it. I haven't started on a build-out because we can't get the door to open right from outside. Any idea?
Slider door won't open from outside-Help!
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More than a few 2014’s had this problem. They were fixed on the warrantee so many dealers know how. There may be someone here to suggest how it was done. My 2015 has been fine.
I have not had the problem so not sure about all the details. But if I recall correctly, inside front of slider door has a 6 inch or so black arm that feeds into the track. There is a cable with a white plastic piece about 1 inch with a couple of notches. There is a small ridge on the black arm that fits into the one of the notches. If it has slipped out, needs to be put back in place. Again not sure what the proper placement is but mine is in the notch closer to the outside. Perhaps others can indicate which notch theirs is in.
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756 Posts
This is maybe associated, maybe not?
On my '14 rear doors I added extra 'gasket compression' adjustment into the striker plate positions - so, now if I don't lean in against the door when trying to open it, a cast nylon frame holding the cable sheath flexes and allows the cable sheath to 'pop out' of its holder and so loose connection tension to the outside lever..
To repair it is just fingertip pressure to snap the cable sheath end back in the holder, I was so thankful there was a break-away stress relief designed in and I hadn't snapped something vital.
Think there is something similar on the slider door latch?
On my '14 rear doors I added extra 'gasket compression' adjustment into the striker plate positions - so, now if I don't lean in against the door when trying to open it, a cast nylon frame holding the cable sheath flexes and allows the cable sheath to 'pop out' of its holder and so loose connection tension to the outside lever..
To repair it is just fingertip pressure to snap the cable sheath end back in the holder, I was so thankful there was a break-away stress relief designed in and I hadn't snapped something vital.
Think there is something similar on the slider door latch?
When I try to open it from outside it does absolutely nothing. You can't feel anything or hear anything. It feels like the handle isn't connected to anything inside the door. Most of the time I can open it by using the inside handle, but sometimes that doesn't work. Thought I was imagining that part until I read on this list. Anyone that had this issue and were able to fix it themselves PLEASE post what you did. Thanks all.
Thanks for the idea, the mechanic has worked on inside of the slider door repeatedly- thinks it's fixed but then immediately it stops working. If I figure out how to post a picture on here I will take one and share it here.
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538 Posts
My 14 hi top side slider has been flawless so far. I keep the roller lubed to keep it moving freely. But the rear doors have long "stuck" a bit when opening from the outside. The to latch sticks a bit. But it settled down over time and now I just have to give the door a good yank to release it.
DO take the panel off and look at the mechanism. Its a simple thing that uses what looks like bicycle cables.
DO take the panel off and look at the mechanism. Its a simple thing that uses what looks like bicycle cables.
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175 Posts
My 2016 PM has a similar issue from the outside. When I pull the handle up, nothing happens. I have to jerk the handle outwards to get the latch to release. I'm keen on seeing the solution to this outside, sliding door handle issue as well.
Slider won't open
This is super common on the 2014 PM
I have had the same issue on both outside and inside handles x 2 cause I have dual sliders. The dealer had to go through a learning curve to get it solved under warrantee (the dealer has access to tech support from FCA).
I did not ask them what they did to fix it unfortunately but, after taking apart all interior panels to insulate and having a good look at the length of cable actuators its pretty clear that as speculated here its just cable elongation. As mentioned here their is some adjustment designed in but, it would not surprise me if the cable on the 2014 and 2013 was speced to long. If I have issues again I will shorten the cable myself and re-crimp/swage a new stopper on the cable.
ProKat, on the bright side if you are starting a DIY camper this is a good opportunity to jump in and get your feet wet
dig in pull that interior panel off (buy yourself a pushpin/christmas tree plyer puller thingy to pull the panel) and have a look!
Ask your Mechanic to call FCA for direction.
Cheers,
Dave
ProKat,
This is super common on the 2014 PM
I have had the same issue on both outside and inside handles x 2 cause I have dual sliders. The dealer had to go through a learning curve to get it solved under warrantee (the dealer has access to tech support from FCA).
I did not ask them what they did to fix it unfortunately but, after taking apart all interior panels to insulate and having a good look at the length of cable actuators its pretty clear that as speculated here its just cable elongation. As mentioned here their is some adjustment designed in but, it would not surprise me if the cable on the 2014 and 2013 was speced to long. If I have issues again I will shorten the cable myself and re-crimp/swage a new stopper on the cable.
ProKat, on the bright side if you are starting a DIY camper this is a good opportunity to jump in and get your feet wet
dig in pull that interior panel off (buy yourself a pushpin/christmas tree plyer puller thingy to pull the panel) and have a look!Ask your Mechanic to call FCA for direction.
Cheers,
Dave
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10,179 Posts
Same here.
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810 Posts
Could you show us exactly where to lube? Ive a 2014 as well..
Thanks
Thank you all that have offered your ideas. As far as trying it myself, the mechanic is costing me nothing. The place I bought it from was supposed to fix the slider door problem before I agreed to buy it. They thought it was fixed the day I needed to pick it up. It immediately wouldn't work, so mechanic is trying to resolve the problem. Think he is more frustrated than I am. I finally decided to ask all of you as I suspected it might be a flaw in that year's model. As the problem appears pretty common in the 2014's I hope when I share your ideas one of them might be the answer. I want to start on my build but because it's still being covered by the seller I don't dare touch anything that might invalidate their repairing it for free.
Any more experiences with this problem, please post on this link. I won't get to see the mechanic till July 6th.
Any more experiences with this problem, please post on this link. I won't get to see the mechanic till July 6th.
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1,061 Posts
The mechanic should try the lube first. But then they would make less money. So in order to keep the profits in is to rip it apart
and replace parts. (my opinion).
As memory has it my sliding side door would not open twice. The only way to open it from the outside was to push in with
my left hand near the catch to release pressure on it. Then it would pop open. So I lube it with a film of grease. And it worked.
This will not void warranty (covenant). To me is to try to solve the problem, then as to go through the hassles of bringing it in.
Also the rear cable for door lock WILL break in time. This is a manufacturer flaw. The wires are not meant for constant flexing when opening the rear door. Wrong type of wire.
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10,179 Posts
Some people have posted that the cable that works the latch tends to stretch.
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1,061 Posts
True. In my opinion it was because the door would not open and they went ahead and pulled harder on the handle to try
to get it opened thus stretching the cable. After that then I suppose the cable needs replacing.
But then again the cable should not take full stop but to have a mechanical stop after the cable is under tension.
Not sure on this one but I just tried my door and you can feel the tension on the cable then a firm stop.
Tension and friction is stopping the door from opening. For me anyway.
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