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The underside of the PM is pretty exposed to debris. With some minimal dirt road (crappy BLM roads) travel I have already dinged up some things under there and almost put a hole in the oil pan (or is it the transmission oil pan?).

Does anyone know of a heavy duty skid plate that is available for the PM?
 

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Steel/iron cut-offs and remainders are going for 30¢ a pound in the u-pick bins at our local metal supplier, twenty minutes stirring the bins and $3 worth of welding rods and some drilling & grinding...
 

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A well made skid plate will be formed & hardened/spring steel - providing serious collision protection, while consuming minimal space, not merely cold rolled steel.
 

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There were some factory skid plates available that were originally suppose to be installed under the engine but they were deleted at the last minute. I wonder if you can order them from MOPAR?
 

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There were some factory skid plates available that were originally suppose to be installed under the engine but they were deleted at the last minute. I wonder if you can order them from MOPAR?
That thin plastic is hardly a skid plate. But if that's what you are looking for you can get the full set in Europe. Here is a seller on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/181607375569
 

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I wanted to bring the string back to the top and ask if anyone has found anyone that manufactures skid plates for the pro master?

I've been underneath and looked at various potential mounting points to manufacture my own and it would be best to start from the main bumper reinforcement and work your Way back .

Someone posted very nice photos when he made himself a front bumper while he was putting lights in the grill . While I have no desire for a front grill guard or for extra lights in the grill or a better front bumper it did expose all of the internal structure behind the bumper to see where you could start a mounting point for the front of a skid plate system. Unfortunately it did not solve any of the problems of rear mounting points .

Obviously the point is to protect the exhaust manifold and all of the oil pans, while not reducing ground clearance any more than absolutely necessary. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated, thank you.
 

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We have made one of these skid plates. 1/4" 6061 Aluminum for strength and weight. If we bring them to market the cost will be about $700. We are not sure if Promaster owners will be interested at that price. What do you think?
 

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I'm impressed, it looks good!


I have a couple of things...


First, cost is reasonable. I know what I can bring one from Europe for, albeit they were downright snitty about it because they made it for European vans, not for the Promaster, with either it's diesel or gas engine, and they made no bones about being insulted that I would "alter as needed" the product to fit or add the required cutouts for the gas engine in ours. After speaking with others in the automotive trade that deal with many European folks, that's an affront to them to "alter" their products, after they spent the time, effort, and pride in what they do to make it. I can appreciate that. BTW, their's was made from 16Ga stamped steel, if memory serves.



Second, the purpose of our skid plate is the "trail roads" that have two tire paths with a high center section that grass and other weeds grow in. So that debris getting in those ventilation holes and up against the exhaust manifold IS to be an issue. Been there, done that, so has everyone else that remembers the first days of catalytic converters with the perforated heat shields, and ranchers trucks catching a hay field on fire. Grass in the shield was the problem.



Finally, an observation we found the hard way. We drove our Promaster down 4 miles of absolutely gooey muddy road last fall, for the first time. At 10mph it was all we could do to keep it on the road. I immediately headed for the car wash returning to town, and spent 4 cycles washing mud from underneath, because washing off WET mud is MUCH easier than dry mud. All of the effort went underneath with me on my hands an knees in the wash bay, and I sprayed up front underneath, too. LITTLE did I know until a week later, when we took the van for an oil change, the mechanic asked me if we had driven the van into a muddy ditch, because the lower of the two radiator fans was blocked from running due to mud tossed by the wheels. I still cannot understand how that happened, geometry-wise, and would not believe it could had I not seen it for myself.



I must then ask myself why Chrysler removed those two plastic sections of "skid" plate from production models and only left the one side piece in place??



SO...think about those things also in your design. while allowing proper ventilation, strength, and any other factors.



To date, we're still driving VERY carefully off paved roads. Keep us posted on your design and progress, and THANKS for posting!
 

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A European made Ducato plate, couple of year old pic. Vancompass, I like yours BETTER, IF the front mounting points hold upon impact with those high centers on trail roads we see. The European model has more mounting points up front. Are they more solid with more mounting points, I don't know, you've disassembled, I have not, you tell me.
 

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I love the idea!
KOV I think once said don't try to turn the PM into a Unimog (me paraphrasing drastically) or something to that effect
but we continually get on roads we shouldn't.
I think I'll spend the $700 locally at my favorite welder, and I think he can do it for 1/2, plus it will give me an excuse to
visit that shop again---they love it when I walk in the door. Same guy who did our diamond plate interior trim work.
 

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I think it was more about making a pigs ear into something or other but...

I’m sure those good ol’ boys at the welding shop love to see you come strolling thru the door from time to time ;)
You'd think good old boy for sure but my man there has a masters in mechanical engineering from UNC...just likes hands on plus he inherited a firmly established business.
 

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Perfect combination of intelligence, education, interest and experience. Its the skillset we wish our Promaster techs all had!
 

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Fit Rv made a post on their page about a engine guard. 1/8 steel, access holes for oil changes, designed to fit over the second alternator (i assume thats something you can add aftermarket?) It has a number of holes in it which could be smaller or cut with a grate pattern to prevent small gravel kicking up (in my opinion), but they are there for temperature control in the engine compartment which i understand.

I'm waiting for an email back from the builder (edge motor works) to learn cost and shipping.

http://www.edgemotorworks.com/e-guard

https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/promaster-alternator-coverskid-plate-the-final-version/
 

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Fit Rv made a post on their page about a engine guard. 1/8 steel, access holes for oil changes, designed to fit over the second alternator (i assume thats something you can add aftermarket?) It has a number of holes in it which could be smaller or cut with a grate pattern to prevent small gravel kicking up (in my opinion), but they are there for temperature control in the engine compartment which i understand.

I'm waiting for an email back from the builder (edge motor works) to learn cost and shipping.

http://www.edgemotorworks.com/e-guard

https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/promaster-alternator-coverskid-plate-the-final-version/
Please update us with what you hear.

I have a related but possibly naive question: if a complete skid plate is too expensive, is it a wise idea to "simply" armor the crucial bits; the bits that could leave you stranded (the 2 oil pans)?

I put "simply" in quotes because many times my "ideas" turn out to be unfeasible...
 
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