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Shore Power Receptacle Install

49K views 85 replies 28 participants last post by  el Jefe 
#1 · (Edited)
I completed the install of our rear bumper shore power receptacle today and wanted to share the details.

This receptacle was used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI38MG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It turns out there is an existing route from beneath the rear of the van into the cargo area wall at the rear driver's side corner. I'm guessing it is for the trailer power if you have the tow package. I decided to utilize this, and put the shore power receptacle in the rear bumper.

1) Discover that a ~1/8" steel tube runs behind the rear bumper. Think plan is thwarted. NOTE: If you do not have the parking sensors, it should be easy to mount the receptacle without touching the steel tube. If you do have the parking sensors, you might be able to avoid the steel tube by mounting the receptacle in the corner moulding at the end of the bumper, underneath the light.

2) Buy tungsten carbide grit 1-7/8" hole saw to get through that steel (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0011MPKJ2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Also buy some cutting fluid to keep things lubricated while you are cutting the hole (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X3ZKXI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

3) Cut the hole. Keep it nice and slow with significant pressure on the hole saw. I had to stop and let my cheap drill cool several times. Make sure you keep the saw and steel well lubricated. Once you are through, clean up and primer the hole.



4) Route your triplex AC wire.



5) Connect to the shore power receptacle and push receptacle into the hole, flush with the bumper. I put a 2x4 over the top of the receptacle and gave it a few whacks with a hammer to get it completely flush. Drill pilot holes and use provided screws to secure the receptacle.



6) Steal power from all your friends.

 
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#3 · (Edited)
I was thinking the same thing...There are cutouts in the steel behind the bumper that many have used as a place to put the AC plug by just drilling thru the rubber bumper in the right spot.

I also noticed this install has the back up warning sensors in the bumper.... wondering if the holes in the steel base are for the sensors and so another hole was needed......

Inquiring minds want to know....:D

ed

ps. a rear facing receptacle is good, so when you forget to unplug and just drive away, no damage is done - you just leave a cord behind. Back when I had my last campervan in 1972, I did that a few times! >:D
 
#4 ·
Yep, it's because of the sensors. The connectors for the sensors sit sideways so it blocks more of the bumper than just the sensor itself.

If may be possible to modify the sensor connector or just squeeze your receptacle right up against it, but I didn't want to risk breaking the sensor. It might also be possible to get a smaller receptacle or modify this one so it needs less bumper real estate.

-Tyler
 
#5 ·
#6 ·
They are all about the same. You might get a better quality one by paying more or you might not. That price seems about average. The caps tend to not stay tight after a while but it doesn't seem to make any difference (at least on mine).
 
#8 ·
I’d also add that Romex is not my first choice for this application now that I have been informed that all wire in a vibrating vehicle should be stranded. Perhaps type MTW, or THHN in some flex conduit? Now for full disclosure I did run romex from my shore power entrance to my RV converter/fuse panel, and I hope some smarter electrician type posts up to help us all.
 
#16 ·
I used stranded Ancor marine grade triplex wire, it is nice and supple. I ended up using some solid romex for my AC outlets as I had the slim single-piece RV outlets and they didn't like the stranded.
 
#11 ·
I put the shore power through the side of my van. I know I could drive away and rip it out, what was I thinking? Well actually I was thinking I would look in my mirror and if the cord was still attached I’d see it! So far so good. The spot I drilled enters the side vertical rib so the wire is where I can access it by removing trim only and it feeds to the converter where it is accessible all the way. If changing that wire to a stranded type is a good idea I can do it in an hour w/o taking any of my conversion out. BTW the other cover in the van’s side is the vent for my FLA batteries.
 
#12 ·
I based mu under-the-bumper AC input on the fact that when I had my '72 Dodge van, I would frequently leave a campground and discover I forgot to disconnect the AC about an hour down the road. In the back, it just pulled out with no damage.

As a reminder, I now always curl the orange power cord past the driver side of the van so I might notice it if I look in the rear view mirror before departing!

so far, so good....
 
#20 ·
Having no air conditioning unit I have no Earthly reason for more than a few amps of shore power. Remember even if I am charging my batteries they want something like 1-10 amps at about 14 volts or less thats about 2 amps at 120 volts. If I had a Class B motorhome with heat and AC electric then 30 amps would be appropriate.
 
#23 ·
Stranded wire is recommended for wiring anywhere wires can have movement as they are less likely to fatigue and break than solid wires. That means in your house - the wires will never see any movement so solid wires are fine. In a vehicle or vessel, the vehicle will see lots of movement and hit bumps which will cause the wires to bounce and move (this is why strapping wire runs down is important) and each movement of the wire fatigues it ever so slightly. After a while fatigued wires fail and start shorting out. No good.
 
#30 ·
Hi,
Not to be picky, but below a certain stress level no fatigue damage occurs, and the material can undergo an essentially infinite number of fatigue cycles without failing. The stress level depends on a lot things but is generally around a quarter of the breaking stress for the material. Stress cycles below that don't cause any damage.

Gary
 
#24 ·
I have had even stranded wire fail on my motorcycles. Stranded me on my 2002 F650GS about 10 miles out in the desert solo. Solid wire would have only lasted a few months and the stranded lasted for 14 years. That’s what we mean by BETTER. This kind of knowledge may not be available to read it is called experience. It’s a good, but expensive type of knowledge.
 
#25 ·
Hi,
This Romex vs stranded wire has been an ongoing discussion here (and elsewhere) for quite a while.

Before my PM conversion, I had three commercial RV's, and all were wired with Romex. One them had seen 20+ years of service when we traded it in. No wiring problems (plenty of other problems :).

While there are recommendations for using stranded wire for boats and RVs out there in a lot of places, I searched pretty hard on google trying to find any instances of Romex failing in RV service without finding any. Maybe others know of actual failures?

I used Romex on my PM conversion for both AC and DC circuits. Its very nice to work with and the plastic jacket that encloses the conductors makes routing easier, and adds some resistance to abrasion. Its made to a spec, so the quality is consistent. Its cheap.

If you do go with stranded wire, make sure that it is made to a spec (eg SJ, SJOW) that is stamped on the wire. Cutting the ends off an extension cord to get stranded and jacketed wire seems risky to me if you can't confirm that the wire is made to an appropriate spec for RV or boats.
Some of the specs explained here: http://www.awcwire.com/producttoc.aspx?id=type-sj-sjoow-portable-cord

BlueSea.com probably has some good advice on selecting stranded wire for boat (RV) applications.

Gary
 
#26 ·
Hi,
I used Romex on my PM conversion for both AC and DC circuits.
Thank you Gary for your admission. Now we can come 'out of the closet' and admit that we, too, used Romex.
 
#28 ·
I never heard of anyone using stranded wire for A/C wiring in a van before. Of course my information never came from professional camper converters... as my information always came from converters that use their van for mobile service businesses. I'm sure the professionals have good reasons for recommending stranded wire.

Having said that... I have no intentions of using stranded wire in my Promaster. I used Romex in my last van, which is by far the harshest, most bounciest riding van, known to man :). This van was used daily for 13 years on Connecticut roads (pot holes everywhere) and we never once had a Romex wire failure.

On the other hand, we had numerous stranded wire failures on the vehicle's stock wiring... almost all caused from corrosion that seems to easily find it's way between the individual wire strands... I will be using Romex comfortably on this build, and avoiding stranded wire where ever possible.
 
#35 · (Edited)
This van was used daily for 13 years on Connecticut roads (pot holes everywhere) and we never once had a Romex wire failure.

On the other hand, we had numerous stranded wire failures on the vehicle's stock wiring...
I find it interesting that we can debate stranded vs solid for 4 pages of threads!

I fall on the stranded side. If there's motion, the solid may "work harden" and break. Best solution is to fix the solid wires firmly to the van at short intervals so the wire doesn't flex even with bumps and bounces. I ty-wrap every two or three feet even with my stranded stuff.

That being said, I'm in the middle of a broken stranded wire situation right now... the wires between the right rear door and the body of the van. That door is probably the most used door in my van. As I enter from my carport. it's the easiest way to get in when I'm heading out. That, plus the fact that I've use the right side rear door at least 1,000,000 time as I work on the interior!

Took it to the dealer with a temp wire in place to show the service guy which wire is broken (and exactly where). It was the white/blue wire that signals "door ajar". They managed to break another wire so that the door no longer remote-locks. They decided to order a new harness.... fingers crossed!

Tom... didn't realize you were here in CT.... I'm compiling a list of PM forum members in case we decide to do a CT PM get-together!

(Wish more people would list their location in their profile !!!!!)
 
#29 ·
I'm planning to install a shore power inlet in the rear-corner plastic below the taillight. Access from underneath is a little tight and awkward. I am thinking of pulling the corner plastic off to make it easier. I see the bumper cover has to come off first, and maybe the taillight. Anyone know what's involved?
 
#33 · (Edited)
I've spent quite some time reading about Romex or Stranded wire (MTW or THHN). It was enough time that I couldn't find any sources other than people commenting in forums.

My finding is this:
1 - Some people say stranded wire is mandatory and that Romex is bad.
2 - Some people say Romex is OK to use.
3 - Nobody says stranded is bad.

With a finding like that, I will buy stranded wire. It's going to be inconvenient to take back my Romex and find stranded wire (which might cost more), but the peace of mind will be worth it. With that said, I am frustrated by this mixture of information since it looks like major manufacturers just use Romex. Do they not care, or is it not a big deal?

I am leaning towards 12 gauge wire for everything except the appliances like fridge and A/C. It sounds like the stranded needs to be tied down. Zip ties? PVC conduit?
 
#34 · (Edited)
Hi,
I guess one thing to make it less of a tough decision is that since you can't really find much in the way of actual failure reports out there for either Romex or stranded that you probably can't go far wrong with either.

I did some more searching on the wire failures this morning:
- Still can't find any actual reports of failures of Romex in RV service.

- When you look more generally for RV/Boat wire failures, there are some reports of corrosion failures -- so, if you go stranded, I'd try to find stranded copper wire that is tinned as the tinning reduces corrosion. I think that solid wire is inherently more resistant to corrosion because of the large conductor diameter.

- There are a fair number of crimp terminal wire failure reports -- so, if you go stranded, use a good crimper, and try pulling each crimp terminal off the wire before putting it on the terminal -- should take 50 lbs pull without it coming off.

There is at least one post that says that stranded is bad -- its just a couple posts up in this thread from Tom :)

Gary
 
#39 ·
MC cable is what we called BX... armored cable.

I would suggest that:

1) There's no need for metal armor... used in houses when they worried about mice chewing the wires, pre -plastic days.

2) I would think you'd have a really hard time keeping the metal of the armor from clanging against the metal of the van!

Monoprice = very good wire, very reasonable prices... I've been using it for years for ham radio power, speaker wires, DC power and more! Lots of it in my Promaster!
 
#41 · (Edited)
2) I would think you'd have a really hard time keeping the metal of the armor from clanging against the metal of the van!

Monoprice = very good wire, very reasonable prices... I've been using it for years for ham radio power, speaker wires, DC power and more! Lots of it in my Promaster!
Whoa! Just #2 alone will convince me to use something else. Good tip.

I'm reading on Southwire's website that SXL is the ideal cable for automotive use. Another site breaks down the different wires meant for auto use.

While speaker wire might be fine, I want to do my build as "right" as possible. For speaker wire, are you guys buying it with just the red/black wire? What about a ground (green) wire?

If I can find a stranded SXL, TXL, etc., then I'll go with that. Sorry to the OP for hijacking this shore power post to talk only about wire.
 
#43 ·
I wouldnt think theres a high rate of failure for Romex in a conversion situation. Stranded is used all the time in autos and ive seen that fail plenty because of corrosion. But, im trying to compare the pricing here. I figured on buying a 250ft roll of 12awg 3 wire romex to do all ac and dc except the runs that need much thicker cable. Thats only $60.

For stranded im having a hard time finding 3 wire in rolls. Ive found 4 wire so I could use that, but it isnt cheap. $50 for 100ft of 2 wire and $90 for 100 ft of 4 wire.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13716
 
#44 ·
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