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Discussion Starter #1
Project Plan; to accommodate outside incoming ~120volts connector for incoming "Shore-Power".

Personal finding; while running ~120v wiring inside my PM open plastic covers what covers passenger's seat-belt.
Found; that in a pillar what's go's to a roof around a floor location there is a lot of space similar to a drivers side (where tanks filled little-door installed).
Also under passenger belt's there is a panel with 2 fuses, and a space inaf to install a "Main-circuit-braiker" ~120v (probably 20amps)
I do think that in a steer-wheel on a right-side version they do have tank-door on a right side.
So my IDEA to make "Shore-Power" inlet and a little-door on a right side, similar to tank-door.
What YOU People think ?
Any pictures of How You made on yours, will be greatly welcome.
 

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MsNomer, I like your choice for a shore power inlet! Being only 15 amps, does it work for all your needs? Iam looking at using the same one only installing it just below the light on the plastic bumper.
 

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My 15A circuit provides AC for a few outlets in the van and for the RV-type converter/charger I have installed to keep the battery charged and provide up to 55A of DC for lights, TV, etc (while only drawing about 5 amps of 120V AC) when I am "docked".

I chose the "under the bumper" location because I wanted the receptacle to be in a weatherproof box with water tight fittings until the wire is in the van body. Works well!

I do like the in-the-bumper installation. Easier to reach to plug in...

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ed = and and other "Back-Bumper" inlet IDEA is Ingenioce !!! 5+Stars.
How-ever I made my Power-Center and Monster-Inverter installed on a place of a front passengers seat.
I do have 3 systems of wiring adds to original PM.
1) DC +12v to my bed location (near back-doors) for LED lights reading/writhing.
2) AC ~220v 2splite phase from F-passenger seat to back doors for welding machines.
3) AC ~120v run on bough sides of a van with some outlets on a way to back doors.

Max power what I've been using in my life of old Sprinter van; A/C 500watts 120v in summer all nights.
Some time boil water with a boiling-coil 1000watts.

In my Old Sprinter I allways dropped 120v cable (14gades) down through passengers doors.
It worked for me for over 8 years. The only problem was; first bugs come by cable. Then I did looped cable up to an outside mirrow, and from there to a house window.
==============================
Please continue to SHARE yours Ideas.
 

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2015 Promaster 3500 159 Ext gas silver
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uNik
On my previous RV's they put all hookups on the drivers side - power, water, septic, cable, etc. I guess that is because in a campground they generally do the same and it makes connections easier. And for draining tank(s) it's particularly important as the drive through always has the equipment on the left side. Of course it all depends on how you plan to use your rig.

On my PM conversion I will have a tank drain about halfway back on the driver's side. Power will be 15 amp at the left at rear bumper with cable TV nearby. Haven't decided about water fill but it will probably be in the same general area. Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is my set up.
Dolmundo, Love your idea.
When this little door is closed, it looks nice
I Do have a ? = When cable is plugged and it is a heavy rain folling.....
Did you tested it with a cable in heavy rain?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
This one is marine grade. It is water tight.
Taylor = I do LOVE This. It match my idea.:x
Q= can you make a pix with outside cable ON?
Does plug and connector has seal? (when plugged)
Do you mind if I make some changes while copy to my PM ?
 

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Like Taylor I used a marine grade (mine was cheap) 115v outlet that is sort of water-tight and has a flexible sealing plug when not attached and less protection when plugged in. Water infiltration is not an issue as any moisture entering will drain down to the rocker panel drains and my insulation is non absorbing polyisocyanurate. However the electrical ought to be protected by a ground fault protector to prevent faults in the 115v circuits due to moisture or whatever. Cords with the GF are available and are probably a good idea.
 
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Taylor = I do LOVE This. It match my idea.:x
Q= can you make a pix with outside cable ON?
Does plug and connector has seal? (when plugged)
Do you mind if I make some changes while copy to my PM ?
Will get you some pics this evening.
 

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On my previous RV's they put all hookups on the drivers side - power, water, septic, cable, etc. I guess that is because in a campground they generally do the same and it makes connections easier.

....cut....
Yes, everything else being equal the drivers' side is preferred. Not only is it the standard at campgrounds, but it also places all the cables and hoses away from the curb side (passenger side) where most people hang out when outside their camper. Hoses and cables on passenger side could be a tripping hazard for the majority that don't expect the location being reversed.
 
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