Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a2015 159" High roof diesel, 45k miles/73k kms. Love the van but with a few projects on the go I'm a little hesitant to start converting it to a camper so I'm contemplating selling it. My fear is that I will not be able to commit the time to get it ready to enjoy the summer camping season

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You don't need much to be able to enjoy camping in it. It only takes a day or two to insulate. Add a mattress, a cooler, you are ready to roll. Many of us started that way.
I actually did that,(minus the insulation), I drove down to Florida for 2 weeks and toured the east and west coast, it was fine due to the warm weather in Florida except for a few cold nights getting there and back. I'm planning on on spray foam for insulation which is pretty much irreversible . I find the van very noisy when driving an empty shell. I may also insulate underneath and around the wheel wells. If I start to convert I will fully commit, problem is if I sell down the road it will have to be sold as a camper and not a useable cargo van which limits buyers

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,269 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,013 Posts
Others will scream it's herescy but no need for spray foam at all. It's messy, expensive and can really make conversion far more difficult. There are lots of other, more benign ways to insulate as documented here many times by others. Most people way overdo insulation and have no real idea about how or what to do other than it's the most important first step in conversion. Just don't use fiberglass batts! ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,218 Posts
Don’t use Denim(!) and that 1/4” reflexix is not much better than nothing. 1” polyisocyanurate insulation board held in with Great Stuff “Cracks and Gaps” applied with aPro-gun is what many of us have done. Automotive Thinsulate from Hein is a good choice to pull into the ribs and areas not accessible to do the board.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Don’t use Denim(!) and that 1/4” reflexix is not much better than nothing. 1” polyisocyanurate insulation board held in with Great Stuff “Cracks and Gaps” applied with aPro-gun is what many of us have done. Automotive Thinsulate from Hein is a good choice to pull into the ribs and areas not accessible to do the board.
I think I'll use the 1" poly for the floor but still set on spray foam for sealing the walls and roof, if I tape everything off I'll get a spray foam guy to spray it. The floor will be easy to bring back to stock if need be, the spray foam on the walls and ceilings will add structural support to the box

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
538 Posts
I installed about 100 sq ft of sound mat insulation. Then the 1" foam board held in with canned foam. Then the bubble tex layer with aluminum tape. Great combination to keep the van cool and quiet! Just did the floor with heavy carpet padding and commercial carpet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
We went Hein Thinsulate for 95% of the insulation journey.
The other 4% was a mixture of a proprietary insulation sold by PromasterAccessories
and 1% the non-itch no formaldehyde pink insulation.
We ended up with 4 inches if Thinsulate throughout the majority of the van excepting
the cab over area where we only got 1 two inch layer in.
It's been Florida test at 95 degrees and did well.
We've yet to give it a cold weather test.

Gary, a frequent contributor here, went with spray-in foam and I think he said he'd not
got that route again.
Personally I'm a fan of rigid foam board, I just couldn't talk the she-boss into it---the believed
that it squeaks. Many here have proven time and time again that it doesn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
I consciously limited the amount of money I spent on a campervan conversion knowing it would add very little to resale. Insulating, paneling, upholstery, house battery, mechanics cabinets, CLR window, flooring and 2 maxx air fans ran around 4K. I use my van as a cargo van so my platform bed is 4 panels and hinged so it folds and tucks tightly against both sides of the van. Removable square 1 inch aluminum tubing supports the bed. When not used the tubing goes into a ski bag and takes up zero space. Just my 2 cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,267 Posts
Hi,
I insulated my van using a two bottle urethane spray foam kits from Home Depot.
All the gory details here:
http://www.buildagreenrv.com/our-conversion/our-conversion-insulation/

In a nutshell the DIY spray foam approach is doable, fairly cheap, and results in a good insulation job that does a good job of protecting the van skin from condensation.
It probably takes a bit less time than insulating with rigid polyiso glued to the van skin with Great Stuff Pro. But, its "higher pressure" on you if you have never done it before (like me).

If I were doing it myself again, I'd use the rigid Polyiso glued in place with Great Stuff. Seems like, its a bit cheaper, its easier and does not have as many opportunities to screw up, and I don't see why it would not result in just a good an insulation job as the spray foam, and provide about the same protection from condensation on the inside of the van skin.

So, I think they both result in a good insulation job, and the polyiso is a bit less expensive and a bit easier to do.

But, if you have a local guy that has experience spraying foam in vans and you can do the masking (time consuming) and get a good price, that seems like a good way to go to me. I'd just talk to the guy about how he is going to prevent distortion of the van skin as the urethane cures -- if he is unaware of this potential problem, then I'd be a bit wary.

Gary
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,218 Posts
2much2c,
I limited mine to about the same because I am cheap. I squeezed in a $600+ refrigerator and a nearly $900 Espar heater into a $4600 conversion.
Now I have spent $900 for lowered seat bases and another swivel. It hurt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Regarding the noise: I completely covered the rear wheel wells in sound absorbtion mat (the stuff that's made of lead with a layer of sticky rubber added and sold as a sheet). That plus a vanrug (precut carpet+foam floor cover) and road noise is seriously reduced. Before you go any further with noise reduction efforts, just cover the wheel wells from the inside of the van and put something on the floor and see if you're satisfied.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top