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2017 159, w/dual sliders. SF Bay area
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Discussion Starter #1
I put in my floor this weekend, 3/4" hardwood plywood, running across the vehicle. Using the existing tie down points, this gives only 2 or 4 spots bolted through the body. I'm looking for suggestions on what and how to properly secure the build out, since just screwing everything to the plywood floor is clearly not viable. I expect/plan to through bolt batteries and the water tanks - maybe the inverter if it is as heavy as I expect. Everything else seems negotiable. If the floor is properly secured, some loads could be bolted to the floor. OTOH, it might just be easier to through bolt some 80/20 and secure cabinets to that.


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Since the floor can be secured and abuts the bulkhead why not cut out for stuff and let the batteries and cabinets reach to the van’s floor? I am very pleased how it worked and trust me they will not side in any crash. Additional attachments to keep them from tipping forward becomes simple. Sorry if you read my many posts on this before and I am repeating this over and over ad nauseam.
 

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2017 159, w/dual sliders. SF Bay area
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Discussion Starter #4
Since the floor can be secured and abuts the bulkhead why not cut out for stuff and let the batteries and cabinets reach to the van’s floor? I am very pleased how it worked and trust me they will not side in any crash. Additional attachments to keep them from tipping forward becomes simple. Sorry if you read my many posts on this before and I am repeating this over and over ad nauseam.

I do like the idea of dropping in cabinets to keep them from sliding, but I'm thinking in 3 dimensions. For securing the floor, did you add more bolts beyond the stock 8 connectors?
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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I do like the idea of dropping in cabinets to keep them from sliding, but I'm thinking in 3 dimensions. For securing the floor, did you add more bolts beyond the stock 8 connectors?
I was thinking in 3D too! My floor is floating but constrained at the rear by a transverse bulkhead that is attached to the longitudinal supports for the bed, has a transverse hold down at the bulkhead and is one sheet of plywood running from the bulkhead to the bed support. It cannot lift, slide forward, back, or sideways. Engineering it this way made one item do several jobs. It stays in place well, sits on rigid polyisocyanurate insulation which is also floating. Removing the two transverse constraints takes about 5 minutes and the floor can then be removed in one piece with a small additional folded section at the side where the porta-pottee is attached. I have done it several times when I have removed my modular cabinets and dinette to use the van as a..... well van! If I leave the overhead cabinets in and the Espar heater in I can empty the rest in 20 minutes with nothing but a Phillips screwdriver. Very handy when I moved my Daughter (twice!) and picked up a Honda Metropolitan scooter and recently a Vespa LX150 (three times the cc’s and twice the speed!)
 
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2014, 138WB, High Roof, Gas, SW MT
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Hi,

Seat tracks in commercial airplanes are only designed for 9g forward -- so, I'd check on how heavily built any the track is before selecting a track. I think 30 g is a good value to aim for.

Crashes are not necessarily just forward acting g forces, there can be side and vertical forces for side impacts and rollovers. Looking at the pile of sticks left from some RV crashes gives some idea of the forces involved -- luckily we have a steel body with frames surrounding our cargo area.

I used strongly built cabinets/bed pedistals (3/4 MDO plywood) with flanges around the bottom or solid bottoms that are through bolted to the floor with steel plates under the floor that the bolts go through to prevent pull through. All the joints on the cabinets are screwed and glued. The cabinets are also anchored via rivnuts or bolts up higher tot he van vertical frames. Still not sure it would all hold together in a big time crash.


View from under the floor.


I really like your idea of using some 80/20 to anchor the cabinets through the floor -- coupled with strong cabinets, it seems like the 80/20 could provide a really solid anchor to the floor.

Gary
 
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