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Discussion starter · #48 ·
Making a blanket statement that's not 100% true. You need to see what rules Canada has.
First ref: Port Authority NYNJ
6.3 Lower Level of the George Washington Bridge only. House trailers, camper trailers, self-propelled campers, mobile homes, recreational vehicles, and other vehicles equipped with LPG installations for cooking, heating or refrigeration are permitted to travel on the lower level of the George Washington Bridge provided that: (a) the LPG container supply does not exceed two tanks containing not more than 45 pounds LPG capacity each or one tank not exceeding 60 pounds LPG capacity; (b) the containers are constructed, installed, and maintained in accordance with the regulations and specifications of the Department of Transportation and National Fire Protection Association; and (c) the valves remain closed until the vehicle has cleared the facility.

Holland Tunnel, is confusing
View attachment 71864

2nd ref: CBBT, tunnel under water
View attachment 71865
3rd erf: VDOT, tunnel under water
View attachment 71866
Thanks @phil

I would suspect propane is a standard on RVs. At least I see lots of RVs with propane tanks.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Hum, I agree the 712 is the cat's meow. I love mine. My son has the $15 amazon battery shunt / monitor on his van. It will show discharge current OR charge current, but not both and then battery voltage. But what I miss is the %full gauge and the fact the victron auto resets / calibrates itself as you use it. With his cheap monitor you are basically left to read battery voltage and determine %capacity remaining based on that.
We camped last night & screenshot the iPhone info from our BM 712 Smart;

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So this device shows power used last night & how the PM alternator charged up our batteries @ this SOC ( settles @ about 35Amps charge after a few minutes ).

It is a “rockin instrument” for figuring out our batteries & charge system.

This is why I will probably buy one for Van #2.

Is there anything ”better” out there?
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
one more thing. I also have CC wheel well water tank. I did not want to make any extra holes for the gauge and I bought KUS S5U Sender 1.5" NPT mount. You can just screw it to the big hole on your water tank. S5U Sender - 1.5" NPT Mount| Liquid Level Sender | KUS USA. KUS level gauge is CAD$25 :
.
Hi @Alexx

I have thought more about this & I will probably router a “sighting” slot in the plywood which will be covering/ protecting the vertical surface of the tank (KIS - keeping it simple). Another method rather than a slot will be some holes (

If that is not practical another way of showing the water level would be “remote” sight-tubes.



If I were to go the electronic way I think your gauge sender is good value 👍
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Fridge:

So I purchased a Truck Fridge model TF130 from the Canadian Truck Fridge Distributor.



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Our 2018 build had an ARB 50Q with an ARB slide. We love the ARB and it is extremely efficient. We access our fridge from outside standing at the open slider door. Our plan is to access our Truck Fridge with a swing door in the same manor. The TF130 has twice the space as the ARB 50Q.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Battery Monitor - Victron BMV712 Smart

So I am waiting for my 2021 3500 EXT to be built in Mexico ⏰

Meanwhile my Buddy @CDN_PM picked up his 2500 159" yesterday and has started to insulate his walls. I have had time to shop and design and consider etc,,,,,,

Last week I went down to my friendly boat store and asked what they could do for me on 2 Victron BMV 712 Smart battery monitors (I need one for my cabin as well). So after a bit of discussion they agreed to sell me 2 units along with the battery temperature sensors for $15 more (each) than I could have ordered from Amazon. So it cost me an extra $30 to shop local. I try to support local even if it costs me a bit more. In this case these units c/w temperature sensors were $290 each where my best comparable price on Amazon was $275 each.

So far I love, love my BMV712 Smart in van #1 (2018 3500 EXT).

Here is a photo of the twins;

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Discussion starter · #61 ·
The Fridge - TF130

So I decided upon a Truck Fridge 130. It cost me including delivery and taxes over $1,800C.

So far I like it 👍

In our 1st build we decided upon a chest fridge and went with an extremely efficient ARB 50Q. This ARB with a $500 ARB slide cost us including taxes just under $2,000C. It was a hard choice as we love our ARB, but wanted to try something different & sometimes we get stuck in the same old and do not explore new possibilities. So we ventured out and go from a chest lid access on a slide to a swing door TF130. The TF130 is more than twice the interior space than the ARB. Maybe with all the Covid weight gain I need to shed I should have micro sized the food locker 🤔.

Well after Covid Season is over we may get back to travelling into the States & I will have enough room for a couple of cans of "the Beast" @RDinNHandAZ - I am gonna guess they are better cold?

I like the design of the top right corner coil/fan/compressor & this thing is quiet. 🤫

I plan to ad 1" of polyiso around the sides and back and top to increase the fridge's efficiency (leaving the corner guts out of that additional insulation so the thing can do it's thing).

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Discussion starter · #62 ·
Our 1st Van Build (late 2018 early 2019), I was very rushed thru the design phase (more like a fast track design/build project with zero van building experience - decades of construction experience but none specifically for vans and no adult RV life experience). My 1st "Build Thread" was produced after I was pretty much complete other than some "finishing items" after I cleared photos out of my iPhone.

This 2nd Build Thread, I thought it would be helpful to others if I created the thread and posted my thoughts and ideas as an "As It Happens" thread. I will attempt to post my thought process and the development from start to finish. All of it; The Good, The Bad, & The Ugly

My past life experiences with "almost everything building" is focussed around "Keeping It Simple" KIS. I am going to attempt expand upon this idea with this more descriptive sentence; I focus on Keeping It as Simple as I can with still being able to achieve the goals I am aiming at. In other words I find it best to achieve the goals with the simplest design as practical.

In light of the foregoing paragraph, Our Primary Goal in our "Travel Van" is a comfortable Bed for Two. Everything else is Secondary - Everything. I say "Travel Van" because that is a better descriptor than "Camper Van". With the Primary Goal in mind we designed our 1st van placing the van as far back to the rear doors as functional/practical and everything was built around that design/positioning - Everything. Van #2 I find it is the same. IMO, Design is the hardest and the most important part of the Design/Build process. Those of you who have performed DIY van Design/Builds I am sure understand this statement. Further the "majority" of the posts and chatter on the Forum is really about Design and not Build.

This time around as I am waiting for our 2021 van, I have lots of time to design, order materials, appliances, and equipment. I am committed (as they are sitting in my basement) to some items and not to others. This time around I will design (allow a space) for some items but wait until we are using the van prior to pulling the trigger (example Isotherm HWT). The basic layout is fleshed out, but in lower resolution until I receive the van and can make some actual physical measurements (tolerance). Here is the rough design to date (my hand drawn chicken scratch sketches are childlike in comparison to some of the 3D or 2D CAD designs or scales models I have seen on this Forum);

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Design under the bed (table & chairs & milk crates);

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I welcome questions, other ideas, and especially constructive criticisms (as I am always learning from the Members who are good enough share their knowledge on the Forum).
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
The Committed & Not Yet Committed Items;

Committed;

2021 3500 EXT with factory swivel seats (white)
CRL Slider Window "fixed" part number FW385R (same as before)
Maxxair Roof Fan - 0007000K all white with black remote (same roof location as before)
Curious Campervans; 22 USG PM Wheel Well Tanks (drivers & passengers 44 USG total)
Queen width bed (60" wide) same as before
Fridge - TF130
Heater - Propex HS2800 with "Digistat"
Bed Design - under bed access from living area side
Propane Lockers - currently behind the fresh water wheel well tanks
Toilet - Thetford (new Curve model) - might swap out for a "Natures Head" later
Power Center - Parallax 8355
BM - Victron BM712 Smart c/w temp sensor
4 Position Manual Switch - Blue Sea
Isolator/Relay - Stinger 80amp continuous 150amp surge/rush in (last van was a Cyrix230 - more on this later)
BB Plywood 3/4" & 5/8" ( 5x5 / 5x10 / 4x8 ) sheets


Not Yet Committed;
Batteries - AGM - Placement & 12vdc distribution
Upper Cabinet Design
Lower Cabinet Design
Colours & Surfaces "aesthetics"
Panels & Fastener Type (I ordered the plastic RAM panels & will most likely use the lowers permanently)
Sink & Faucet
Shore Power Plug

I have already spent just over $7,000C including tax (we have 12% sales tax where I live).


Some Items On My Design Radar;

Water distribution; 44 gal (twin CC WW Tanks) combining or separating / Isotherm & possible poisoning / other means of hot water (propane)

Super Insulation the TF130 (efficiency)

120vac distribution (how many plugs - we have 6 plugs in van #1 & rarely use any of them)

Where to place shore power plug "rear corner or side" of Driver's side

Battery Placement

Heater Placement

Power Center Placement

Propane Distribution Lines (also propane locker design / marine hatches / floor vents / etc)

Design Simplifications (less is more)

Space & Dimensional Tweeks (van design space "inches" or "fractions of inches" can be critical to better designs

How the Factory Swivel Seats "ergonomics feel" in relation to foot rest and closeness of build and if batteries can go behind the drivers seat and not impede function of the swivels - what say you @SteveSS ??

Upper cabinet supports; currently thinking of the support system and picking up the logical van wall "lip" as a bottom support system - I think it is "straight/level" thru out?

Running 12vdc wires under the floor system to get to the fridge side 😳

Water pump and setup (adding spinweld fittings to the front of my @Curious Campervans WW Tanks)

Mattress Height "ergonomics" in relation to floor height
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Smart Relay
By foot rest, do you mean a step extension installed behind the swivel seats? I sized ours as a compromise between ergonomics (foot/knee space) and lower cabinet space. The top of the step is about 9" above the metal cargo floor, and about 7-1/4" above the finish floor (1" polyiso+1/2" ply+1/4" vinyl). That left me 6-1/2" of free space under the step, which isn't enough for most batteries. I have my 2kW Chinese parking heater under there and shoe storage. I think those with batteries there ended up with taller foot rests.

The horizontal dimensions of our step extension are fairly minimal, which means comfortable foot/knee room in the rear swivelled position requires the seats be run as far forward as possible (toward the van front). The horizontal distance between the metal step edge and my driver-side lower cabinet is 22". That tapers to 15" behind the passenger seat, which leaves an 18" entryway beside the fridge cabinet in front of the slider. That sounds small, but it's totally fine since there is no overhead cabinet over the fridge.
Thanks @SteveSS

I remembered from seeing the interior of your well build van that you had a good design of floor extension & your above post will help me ponder.

Can "factory swivels" get locked in a roughly 135 degree position rather than a 180 degree position? If so I could see the Driver's swivel (in our case) turned to the 135 degree position and the floor extended like yours, but farther "starboard" side that floor extension bumped higher to house the 2 golf cart size batteries (in the location you have those white looking crates in your photo - are they standard milk crates? 13"x13"). I am going to attempt to do a better job of "tetris(ing)" in the stuff this time around & clean up any inefficiencies I can "pre-determine". A short PM alternator run (starter battery to house bank) is better than a longer one.

It is one of those design tweaks that can only be finalized once the PM van gets here and I can "measure, try, tase, smell" it. Ergonomics to fit us. I do not need the seat right fully back in our current 2018 PM (non-swivel seats), but it can be fully extended with a reasonable back slope (thinking of future sale of it and some drivers need the seat right back if they have long legs). I will design the same around the new 2021 unit with the factory swivels and I can verify how I think those swivels will work.

There are not many non-fixed items in the PM van but the seats and especially when seats swivel I think it best to have the actual product prior to solidifying the design.

If the batteries can't go there the next option is in the cabinet on the drivers side, but if I can fit them where your diesel heater is that would be better for me.
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
RV, I went with something like I believe you are talking about. We wanted to maximize the kitchen counter so I don’t swivel the driver seat the full 180. I have two group 27 in the step on the driver side and a third will go behind the passenger. Buss bars are under the low step. Also fit an inverter under the driver seat. The picture shows a temp setup I used so we could get on the road, still in process...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks @Jing

Yes I am thinking of doing something very similar to your photo. I will be able to finalize the idea once we get our van & can try out the factory swivels.
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
@MsNomer

Thanks for your post regarding behind the drivers seat. The lowest “height” of my current AGMs are 7.13”

I think I can place these on there sides. Do you think in that orientation there is enough room? I think it will be a wait til I receive the van before I can decide (original thought date was May to July)😶

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Discussion starter · #79 ·
Discussion starter · #86 ·
I thought you were going with the Isotemp. I love mine, water always hot, and it saves propane for the Propex.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am on the fence with the Isotherm.

If there was a good Propane fired HWT that vented under the floor I would probably go that route.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
Discussion starter · #90 · (Edited)
Bed Design / Wheel Well Fresh Tanks / Pumping "sucking up" 19" Height


So My 2021 will not arrive until Nov or Dec now 🙀. It is what it is. I am pretty busy elsewhere in my life anyway so I am not going to sweat it,,,

Anyway; I started to look at some higher resolution points of my design. As "The Bed" is really the primary structure that is located and mostly everything else is measured from the bed this is the first item I will be producing some more defined design. The bed location is pretty much set. Queen size width which is 60" starts for us at the rear pillars where the van is about 74" driver's side to passenger's side. 60" forward of these rear pillars on an EXT is just a little forward of the front of the wheel wells. This leaves about 6" gap between the bed structure and the interior of the rear doors (can get a hand down to the interior door handle and open the rear doors.

At risk of seeming insane with my scribble design drawings I will post them here so I can get opinions and comments to help me with the design process. Please do not hold back with your comments as I may learn something or you might educate me with something that I do not know (this feedback is very important in the design process).

So here is the plan under the bed for structure clear height 24.5" (blue is 3/4" plywood 24.5" tall & pink is (3/16" thick) steel angle supports "beams/ledgers for lack of a better term";
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Section looking at the propane locker (left side) and tank (right side)
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Tank Dimensions;

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I intend to pickup the water from the bottom outside fitting (see photo below) and "suck" the water from the pump which will be 20" above the outlet fitting "20 inches of head for the pump to overcome when I have a low tank water condition in the tank. I was focused on a no suction supply to the pump on my first van build (overly worried), so I wanted to go to the forum and hear from those of you who have designed and used a system like what I am detailing with a pump that has to suck up 20" of negative head on the non-pressure side of the pump.

@aaronmcd IIRC you installed your pump similar to what I am describing? If so can you comment on the model of pump and if you have had any issues?


Here is a photo of my tank outlets;

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To All who Post a response - Thank You In Advance !!
 
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