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Discussion Starter #181
That's a good topic to chew on for DIY water heating systems.
Temp regulation for the shower is a trick I'll need to learn.
My 1st plumbing was complicated (performed to residential code, cause you know I’m basically nuts). I had shut of valves & drain lines & exterior hose bib, brass risers from the HWT.

2nd time around I went as basic as possible. (See photo above post)

This time my hot water side consists of the “Pex“ fitting into the tank, the pipe (about 15” long), & a “Pex” fitting at the end where the tap screws onto.

The cold side is; male fitting to accept flex hose from the 12v pump, a T, a fitting to the cold side of the faucet, a short pipe to the fitting into the hot water tank ( cold supply ).

Pressure relieve valve is piped thru the van floor to the outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Thats a great economical solution.
Thanks MesaAZGuy

Yes & the install was way less fitting & no valves / hardware, compared to my 1st install (Titan 4 gal tank).

sometimes I try to maximize on all parameters & choose the wrong thing (this was the case with the Titan). This time around I have less hot water capacity 2.5 gals, but all I have is a sink so Im guessing it will work out ok.

If I do a van #2 at some point, I think I will gravitate towards simpler what I did in van #1. Also I would economize my systems & space more (ie house batteries being the drivers seat not under the rear bed). Design & the thought of is huge. We also have no RV experience as adults until last year, so we are quick learners of what works well for us & what doesn’t. So far we are very happy with the Promaster.

I like the learning we have done & the easy adventure the van provides us. We did not “nail it”, but got pretty close with our 1st prototype. The items we got wrong we will swap out (like this hot water heater & $300 error on my part). That is the cost of an education
 

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Discussion Starter #184
If I wanted hot water for just the sink:
I have seen 12 volt elements for some of these too. 1.5 gallon generally. Plenty for dishes, etc. No mixing valve for hair washing though.
Thanks RD

I would be interested in the 12V depending upon the specs of the battery consumption etc.

I have not road tested the Rheem tank install yet, but I’m quite happy with the “driveway” performance I have tested.

I’m pondering of a system to supply the 120V for 15minutes while driving to utilize the PM alternator via inverter to heat up the 2.5 gals. The idea is the inverter would be switched on 15mins before stopping. I guestimate that process uses about 30 AHRs @ 14volts

I also have a Honda generator I can plug into my shore power for 15mins if need be.
 

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I expect the charge while driving will work great and give you all the hot water you need and full batteries. Consider remote easy to access switches for the inverter and hot water heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #187 (Edited)
Propane Locker

I decided to built my propane locker out of 22GA Sheet Metal. It is designed custom size 13.75” x 13.75” x 20” high. It has a door on the front for access (slide the 20lb tank & milk crate inside). The wood floor will be used as I have mounting flanges at the base of sides (Screwed & caulked to the floor). I will have to locate an area to drill and mount am exhaust pipe thru the floor inside the locker to let any leaking propane escape.\

Photos;

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61030
 

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A Bed Mattress;

On another note one of our choices was a queen size memory foam mattress cut down to 74 inches from 80 inches length so it could fit between the walls. We like this mattress so much we bought one for our cabin.

for us it was extremely comfortable and being all foam, you can unzip the fabric covering cut the foam and zipped the fabric back up. There’s a trick to unlocking the zipper that you have to know which is using a paperclip





View attachment 59607
Hi RV8R, When you unzipped the mattress to cut it, was there any fiberglass that escaped? I am looking for an 8 inch mattress to cut but most have fiberglass added as a flame retardant.
Thanks,
Opus
 
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