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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone

Looking at installing a Maxxair fan in the forward part of the last rearward roof section of the van. So over the bed in the back of the van. I have seen many videos of this install. Some seem to use a support under the fan to give the screws something to bite into, some do not. Just wonder what others have done here?

I do know about the adapters available to give a flat mounting surface. Again some have used these and some have not. If I was to add something it would probably be a wood frame inside of the van but I am thinking that this is not really needed. I am basing this on the fact that I don't see posts stating this if problematic if installed without additional support. Is this a good assumption?

I did try to find an answer in other post but I sometimes have a hard time finding anything. My search results seem to come up with so many posts that is hard to find what I want.
 

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These fans need about 1 1/2” of thickness for the interior trim ring to fit and to attach to. My Fantastic Vent did anyway. I added a 1 1/4 inch wood surround inside. I placed the fan on the raised section near the front so when cut out I had a flat surface to attach it to outside but Hein’s adapter would be nice and easy otherwise.
 
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I read somewhere (can't seem to find it now) where they did a complete screw-less install with a Maxxair using Hein’s adapter. The adaptor was glued down with some kind of window adhesive, the fan was then attached with VHB tape and finally self leveling sealant. Looked clean and strong.
 

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Use the wood frame underneath if only for a place to secure your ceiling. As for the ribs, no need to waste money on adaptors many here have simply filled in with the VHB tape and no one has ever complained about leakage to my knowledge. Do it right and just put a wood frame underneath, use 3M VHB tape and stainless screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Use the wood frame underneath if only for a place to secure your ceiling. As for the ribs, no need to waste money on adaptors many here have simply filled in with the VHB tape and no one has ever complained about leakage to my knowledge. Do it right and just put a wood frame underneath, use 3M VHB tape and stainless screws.
I have not seen much talk about the VHB tape for this install. I was going to use butyl rubber tape. Why VHB tape over Butyl? Use VHB tape instead of screws that dklassen was talking about?

Thx for the replies.
 

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I think the recommendation is to use VHB tape if you don't use an adaptor. I put my vent in the flat part of the roof behind the front seats that is made for a vent or skylight and only used butyl tape, no VHB with a wood frame underneath and stainless screws.

Like everything in life there are many ways to solve a problem. Using an adaptor makes it a bit easier if you are putting it where the ribs are but, at the same time, hardly a requirement for a good job. Let your personal skills and wallet be your guide.
 

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I think the adapter for the outside from Hein is worth the money. He sends really good instructions that uses some type of 3M adhesive. Very clean professional install. It isn't going to leak. I don't think the inner adapter is needed. I think a wood frame inside is necessary. It doesn't take that much longer. It helps with the ceiling later on as well.

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In the end, not sure exactly how I'm going to mount mine but I'm a big proponent of as few holes through the outside skin as possible. If I can do it with with the adaptor, VHB and Window adhesive, that's the route I'm going to hopefully take. I see a lot of folks mount solar panels with VHB so why not the fan.
 

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In the end, not sure exactly how I'm going to mount mine but I'm a big proponent of as few holes through the outside skin as possible. If I can do it with with the adaptor, VHB and Window adhesive, that's the route I'm going to hopefully take. I see a lot of folks mount solar panels with VHB so why not the fan.
I'd go with screws instead of VHB. If I ever need to change out that fan screws would be way easier to remove. No need to worry about holes from the screws. It's sealed up tight.

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I spent money on the adapter which made for a nice clean install. The only thing to consider is the extra cost. Every bit of the conversion can be done cheaply and effectively or there is always an upgrade to spend your money on the next thing. Let your wallet guide you. I spent the money on the adapter but i am doing things cheap in other areas.
And go with screws in the flange i mean if you cut a 14" square hole in the van then 12 #8 screw screw holes are not a problem.

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In the end, not sure exactly how I'm going to mount mine but I'm a big proponent of as few holes through the outside skin as possible. If I can do it with with the adaptor, VHB and Window adhesive, that's the route I'm going to hopefully take.
Why would small screw holes be more of a concern and less clean than adding a 56" interface that needs to also be sealed? Other than maybe [/I]looking[/I] a little cleaner?
 

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second or third... on the adaptor from Hein. Can't imagine how buggered up a fan/vent install might be down the road without it. The miniscule cost of the adaptor in the scope of a build is nothing.
Thom
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ended up making a wood frame for inside of the van and used butyl rubber tape for the seal and to fill the gaps. I was surprised at how filmsy the roof panel was once it was cut. I placed mine in the last rear section with the hole towards the forward part of that section. I would not have wanted to install this without the wood frame (or some kind of support) for the flange area. I think it helped a lot. I do think the adapter that you can get molded to the roof would help but I also think this is pretty good without it. I am happy with the install. Thx for all the replies and all I have learned on this site.



 

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second or third... on the adaptor from Hein. Can't imagine how buggered up a fan/vent install might be down the road without it. The miniscule cost of the adaptor in the scope of a build is nothing.
Thom
Strange how many have managed to do this without it though ;) !!!
 

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I too used Hein's adapter on the top side but I probably did it a little differently. I decided on the top side location, cleaned the gluing area of both roof and adapter with alcohol, applied lines of glue per Hein's instructions and stuck it down. The glue I used was 3M Window-weld 08609. It is outrageous at $22.39 on Amazon. After a day to let the glue cure I drilled holes at the corners and used a saber saw to cut the hole. Made sense to me to do it this way since doing it this way the time I had the roof open to the elements was short, the adapter gave support to the saw while cutting and as soon as the hole was cut I could mount the fan. For the inside I fabricated a frame of 2x fir and use the bandsaw to duplicate the contour of the ceiling as best I could. When mounting the fan I drilled pilot holes using the fan itself to position holes. Used longer stainless screws to get through the fan frame, adapter, roof and into the inside wood frame. I used Dicor self leveling to finish off the sealing job.

 

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Strange how many have managed to do this without it though ;) !!!
If you knew me you'd know i'm OCD in my builds and just couldn't go down the road knowing just a bunch of butyl in mounds-between-ribs was the _solution_ i let into the plans. < THAT and i have no shop as i full time in an RV !
 

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Accrete,

Do you have any photos of the G&C Systems LeMans vent installed?
We got our shipment of vents but no installed photos to share.

Thanks,
Hein
 
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