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Hope so.
I'm leaving Sunday morning for a 2 week road trip and hopefully I can get the roof done before I go.
I'll read the can and see if it's okay to clean and add another coat after 2 weeks.
 

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As I recall, if you recoat within 48 hours, no need to clean with TSP. If you wait, you can recoat later, but need to clean again with TSP. So you should be fine. But, I found that after 4 to 6 hours, the first coat was dry enough to add a second. I put my roller cover in a plastic bag, then used it again later that same day. Good luck. I am totally happy with it.
 

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I called Tropi-Cool last year and they advised me not to use it on van roofs unless I wanted to reapply it every 3-5 years.
 

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I called Tropi-Cool last year and they advised me not to use it on van roofs unless I wanted to reapply it every 3-5 years.
That’s weird, I wonder why. They specifically recommend it for RVs, what’s the difference?
 

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Most elastomeric coatings need about 5 year re-coating and as a word of caution they do tend to chalk a bit too. If coated the van might need a wash once or twice a year to remove the white chalk you might get. I re-coat my AZ house roof about that often to refresh it. I have to think a product for an RV might do this less?
 

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Maggie Marty- I know what you mean. It makes no sense to me either but I didn't want to deal with the mess if it didn't work out so I went with a white Line-X coating. The installer that was recommended to me di a horrible job and but it's a good product so you just need to find a dealer does good work and is willing to mix up a batch of white color (tough part).
 

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Store near me has both, I've heard others mention perhaps using the elastometric to help cool the roof, but I saw this other fibered coating at about the same price with about the same claims to help keep the roof cool. The elastometic mentions RV roof use in particular on the label. Anyone know if one or the other is best? Elastometric is water based, and I think the fibered is alchol based... differert chemicals used for similar results? Anyone have experience with the fibered variety? If not, I'll just go with the elastometric if I choose to put some up there. thanks. Roof Coating at Menards®
Take a look at BusKote...Used on School Buses (hence the name), and I hear good things from RV'ers about this stuff. If I remember right it has some ceramic beads in the coating. Look at Skoolie forums for reviews.
 

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Bus-Kote is a acrylic elastomeric, water that ponds on the PM roof will over time penetrate the coating.

Hy-Tech offers a 5 Year Limited Warranty when applied according to our specifications.

Weak warranty.

I'm sure it works, but now you have to reapply every so many years, more in the southwest, less in Alaska.
 

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In reality a high latex content elastomeric coating is unlikely to let water through even if ponded. That specification is for a roof where the ponding lasts for months and months and our vans small ponds in the ribs do drain and blow off whenever we drive. I’d look for a coating that is rated for ponding but I would not hesitate to use one that wasn’t if it was well recommended otherwise. My AZ house has a couple of small ponds right above the canales used to drain the roof and I have never had any evidence that water has penetrated the coating over the 20 years since I built it.
 

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I used a 3/4 inch nap roller and applied to heavy coats. It took about a gallon and a half. I think if you used a half inch nap roller and were a little less generous you could get a gallon to stretch for two coats.
Question - how slick is the Tropi-Cool, does it cure to a shiny finish? Question I ask is that on a different site somebody mentioned that Tropi-Cool is “slick as snot” when wet. While this is not a problem on the PM, on the Airstream it will be. They have a slightly curved roof and I don’t want sail off my roof when I wash it.
 

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Well, using my hand on the wet Tropi-Cool it does feel somewhat slick, but so does the bare painted metal. I don't walk on my roof, so it is hard to say for sure. Even with my travel trailers I would wash the roof with a pole brush from a ladder. It also might make a difference depending on your footware. Some shoes are slick as snot on my garage floor when wet, others have no problem. Sorry that was not much help ;-)
 

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MrNomer can attest that our white roof can get hot enough to burn fingers. He installed our solar panels in July.
I was curious why I haven't come close to getting burned on roof considering I never wear gloves, so I checked my white Ford van yesterday and again today while parked in sun in South Florida. Granted, it will get hotter later in July and August, but at end of May it doesn’t get very warm. So is the weather that different where you are, or is it the shape or paint of the ProMaster that makes it unusually hot? I’m not sure but will keep checking into July and August.

Both days ambient temperature was 87 F and I checked at 2:00 and 3:00 PM. The inside of the window van was 101 F yesterday and 103 F today (clearer) with no ventilation (all closed up).

Maybe if ambient was well over 100 F and was parked in desert in July, on a very calm day, it could burn, but for me in Florida or Texas it’s not much of an issue. Hasn’t been yet anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I didn't realize that this whole issue was for people without white vans... that test seemed to imply that if it's already white, then anything else won't help.
 

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I think it will help white vans just to a lesser degree. I'm seriously thinking about painting the forehead of the van, that's my hot spot.
Van white is not as reflective as other white paint/coatings.
 
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