Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello fellow Promaster enthusiasts. I have been lurking on the forum for a while and decided I should take the time to post some of my mods in the hopes it will come in handy for you guys.

Today I installed an RFID reader in my Promaster. I do a lot of windsurfing in Maui and wanted an easy way to lock and unlock the doors without needing to take the keyfob with me. The RFID dongle is much smaller and waterproof so I thought it would be perfect to take out into the waves at Hookipa. I am planning on sewing it into my harness so even when i get worked by a mast high wave I won't loose it.

I started with a quick search on Ebay and found this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251275918306?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

At $15 bucks with a relay and two Fob's I thought it was a great deal. The seller shipped it that day and I had it in Hawaii 3 days later.

It comes almost completely prewired so i put it on the test bench added 12V to the red and black wires and watched amazed as the Fob activated the relay as soon as it got within 3 inches of the sensor!

Then the hard part came... How to figure out which wires to tie into on the Promaster to activate the locks. I ended up using the lock unlock switch at the console. There is easy access and plenty of room. Thanks to the quick reply from Bavarian boy in another thread i found that the grey/brown wire will lock and unlock all the doors when shored to ground


Now I needed to find a good spot to mount the receiver and electronics. I ended up putting the receiver on the dashboard, passenger side where the windshield meets the hood. I removed the passenger side main air vent (one torx screw above glove compartment) then pull. Behind that was a perfect space for the electronics.


I used a cat 5 cable for the power, ground, and relay connections which I ran behind the glove compartment to the center console lock and unlock switch. I cut one side of the relay wires and spliced into the grey/brown wire then ran the cat 5 down into the battery compartment where I used a FUSED lead for the positive and then connected the other side of the relay and the ground wire back to the RFID electronics to ground. I inserted the fuse and.... IT WORKED

I noticed that if you lock the van with the key fob the center console lock unlock doesn't work and since the RFID relay is connected to that switch it doesn't work either. This isn't a problem for me I lock the keyfob in the car with the RFID system and then use the RFID system to unlock it when I'm done windsurfing.

I also have a hidden key in a lock box bolted to the frame just in case...





http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9714&stc=1&d=1432505810

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9722&stc=1&d=1432505810

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9746&stc=1&d=1432505810

http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9730&stc=1&d=1432505810


http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9730&stc=1&d=1432505810
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
I work in downtown Detroit and breaking & entering is made very easy with RFID fobs and it is being used more and more every day. You can buy the equipment for very little money on the internet. The scary thing is there is no way to set up encryption with RFID.

The theft works by setting up two antennas, one near the targeted vehicle and one near the holder of the key fob — be it in a purse, bag or pocket. This equipment can usually be purchased for $100 to $1,000. The person with the antenna aimed at the owner of the key fob needs to get within 26 feet of the target. In a store, this could be a few aisles away, so as to not arouse suspicion.

Once the antenna is near the intended victim’s key fob, the key transmits a low-power signal to the antenna, which is then relayed to the antenna near the vehicle. Once that occurs, the thief can unlock the doors and drive away (if the vehicle has push-button start).

Here is one of many articles on the theft.

https://www.cars.com/articles/2011/01/keyless-entry-cars-vulnerable-to-silent-theft/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
604 Posts
Seems like a simple and fairly safe idea for what Mauiguy is using it for. It fills the need for a good way to keep from carrying a FOB or key that can be damaged during water sports, ect. It seems the the possiblity that the interest, much less the equipment needed probably won't be in use at a parking lot at the beach. The technique seems pretty easy to do but what are the chances somebody is "lying in wait" just to make you they're victim.

They might get into your vehicle using it but still can't steal your PM even if it did happen. They would still need a valid FOB or key to start it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I think I am pretty safe here on Maui, if a thief wants access to a van here they break the window, not get out a RFID fob copying device. That said bringing up the security or lack of security with RFID is a valid point.
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,501 Posts
Mauiguy,

Just to be clear,

The wires you show in the second picture are the ones going to the center console buttons (where the emergency flasher button is) ?

Bavarian boy suggested the need for a resistor to ground on the grey/brown wire. Did you use one?

All 4 doors lock / unlock as if you pushed the center console button, right?

Thanks for the info! I've been looking for info on the center console buttons for quite a while!

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
THIS DOOR LOCK SYSTEM RESPONDS TO A NEGATIVE PULSE(-) TO A SINGLE WIRE. LOCK AND UNLOCK WILL FLIP-FLOP BACK AND FORTH, ONE PULSE WILL LOCK THE NEXT PULSE WILL UNLOCK.

That's the info I've seen.. it's similar to a sprinter lock system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Hm, is the US-Version different to the Europe-Version ?

In Europe there are 2 buttons in the middle-console for the power-lock.
One button to lock (including a resistor in the line to ground)
One button to unlock (without a resistor - directly to ground)

The "H090" in the picture is the 2-button-combination. The "H090-icon" is from the original wiring-diagram.

In the lock-line can see a little resistor.
The ProMaster have a CAN-bus-system.


Edited: Oops, I've discovered that the US-ProMaster has only 1 button: http://image.motortrend.com/f/roadt...est/58576942/2014-ram-promaster-2500-dash.jpg
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,501 Posts
THIS DOOR LOCK SYSTEM RESPONDS TO A NEGATIVE PULSE(-) TO A SINGLE WIRE. LOCK AND UNLOCK WILL FLIP-FLOP BACK AND FORTH, ONE PULSE WILL LOCK THE NEXT PULSE WILL UNLOCK.

That's the info I've seen.. it's similar to a sprinter lock system.
I'm going to try it later today. Good info that never seems to show up in any wiring diagram. I haven't found the center console button diagram yet!

Thanks,
Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Yes the center console button beside the hazard btn. Leave the grey brown stripe wire connected but solder a new wire to it which goes to a NO (normally open) relay. the other side of the relay goes to ground. when the relay is activated and makes the grey brown wire see ground all the door locks will reverse there state from locked to unlocked or unlocked to locked. The center console btn will still work.

The simplicity and price of this mod make it my favorite so far. the passenger airvent cover comes off with one screw and a tug, there is a perfect place for the RFID box and sensor and now that catalin and Baverianboy have told us which wire to tap into, it's really easy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
202 Posts
Pefect windsurfing mod

Used this mod for my Promaster. Also for windsurfing.



Lost my spare key last time I was in the Gorge and, while I have replaced the lost key, I'd rather spend $3 for 5 replacement rfid fobs than replace a chipped key or my key fob for $100-$200. Heck my locksmith charges $35 for a dumb key that won't start the van.


FYI, I ran the power and ground from my up-fitters power connection and added an ATC fuse on the positive. Would have loved to use the fuse box by the up-fitter connection, but I didn't have the time to find the right connectors to fit the box.


Headed to the Gorge from FL for a windsurfing refresher on Tuesday.
 

·
Registered
2014-159 HR in CT
Joined
·
3,501 Posts
I work in downtown Detroit and breaking & entering is made very easy with RFID fobs and it is being used more and more every day. You can buy the equipment for very little money on the internet. The scary thing is there is no way to set up encryption with RFID.

The theft works by setting up two antennas, one near the targeted vehicle and one near the holder of the key fob — be it in a purse, bag or pocket. This equipment can usually be purchased for $100 to $1,000. The person with the antenna aimed at the owner of the key fob needs to get within 26 feet of the target. In a store, this could be a few aisles away, so as to not arouse suspicion.

Once the antenna is near the intended victim’s key fob, the key transmits a low-power signal to the antenna, which is then relayed to the antenna near the vehicle. Once that occurs, the thief can unlock the doors and drive away (if the vehicle has push-button start).

Here is one of many articles on the theft.

https://www.cars.com/articles/2011/01/keyless-entry-cars-vulnerable-to-silent-theft/
Mike,

I read the article and they are talking about RF key fobs... I don't think that applies to the RFID system described above.

In most cases, an RFID system is triggered when the fob (just a little plastic disk, no battery, no buttons) is placed within a few inches of the sensor. not sure how the thief would get between the fob and sensor! ;)


.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top