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Discussion Starter #1
We're getting very excited (yes, that's totally the wrong word) to install electrical in our 2017 PM build:( After many months of researching and reading I finally have a final draft of our electrical diagram and I'd love to have it reviewed by all of you much more experienced folks. I am still deciding between marine grade wire vs THHN for the 16/2 and 14/3 .

I've included projected amperage for our DC devices. I have sized the 6 AWG and 80A fuse into the DC panel for our projected load (with lots of wiggle room) but not for the total possible size of that panel. We will definitely not be pulling 100A so I'm not sizing that big when we don't need it.

The AC outlets will see 15A at most (single induction cooker pad) and possibly 20A if we plug multiple computers/etc into the table outlet. Nothing more than 30A per outlet for sure. I'm hung up on how to place the AC fuses because I can't seem to find a 3-fuse AC panel. I'd like to use the Blue Seas DC panel, so I'm not sure what to do about AC.

We do not have shore power integrated into this just yet. I'd like to focus just on the system we are planning for now. Shore power can be a separate discussion if that's ok:)

Thank you! for all advice it is MUCH appreciated. We want to be safe!
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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Your inverter is too small for 15amps.

No shore power?
 

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A few quick things without getting too far into it. You probably want an AC circuit breaker panel and maybe a GFCI breaker instead of fuses.

Here's a representative three breaker panel:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-8058-Position/dp/B000K2IKQE[/ame]

You are either overestimating your AC loads or undersizing your inverter or both. A 1000 watt inverter can only generate 8-9 Amps AC. A standard outlet receptacle is rated for 15 amps max. If you already have the appliances you are going to use, I recommend you get a Killawatt meter and measure your loads first.

Something like this:

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/P3-P4400-Electricity-Usage-Monitor/dp/B00009MDBU/[/ame]

Your estimates on your cabinet lights and bed light currents seem high to me. Are these LEDs or some other lights?
 

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When you are unsure about how to go about this I suggest buying an integrated AC, DC, shore power converter as they are easy to install and will do the grounding correctly and provide an easy way to have the shore power, battery charger and AC breakers.
See:
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/WFCO-WF8725P-Brown-Power-Center/dp/B004A32ODE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521137120&sr=8-5&keywords=wfco+35+amp+power+converter[/ame]
 
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Discussion Starter #7
I misstated the AC amperage. My most powerful device would pull 5A. We may put a power strip at the table outlet to run several computers and chargers at a time. The computers pull around 3A each. Would the amperage on a power strip become cumulative (so 2 computers plugged into 1 strip would mean 6A) or is it just the largest device determining the amount of amps being pulled in?
 

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Would the amperage on a power strip become cumulative (so 2 computers plugged into 1 strip would mean 6A) or is it just the largest device determining the amount of amps being pulled in?
Yes and no. The currents add and the overall current you draw depends on which devices you have plugged in and on at the same time. Some devices have some parasitic current draw even if they aren't turned on, so you have to take that into account too.

RD's advice is better for the panel. It's the difference between giving what you asked for v.s. what would be best overall.
 

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2017 159, w/dual sliders. SF Bay area
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It looks like the power draw you have listed for your USB items are based on their 5V output, not the 12V input.

Yes - multiple devices on a single circuit draw their combined amps.

4 solars in parallel should probably be fused.
 

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A few thoughts on the van charging part. You could use a relay or a Wirthco Battery Doctor.. either would work but the WBD is a bit smarter, and costs a bit more.

The switch you designate between the relay and the fuse is actually a switch that turns the relay on and off... it is connected to a 3rd smaller lug on the relay and to 12V + on a van circuit that goes on when the van is running. Same if you use a BD. so the van and aux batteries are only connected when the van is running (which means the van alternator is providing charging current)

Then use a circuit breaker to go between the relay (or BD) to the aux batteries... the circuit breaker also serves as a switch on the relay output that is going to the aux batteries.
 

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It looks like the power draw you have listed for your USB items are based on their 5V output, not the 12V input.
Speaking of this, are any 12 volt to USB adapter brands more efficient than others? Most I see don't list their 12 volt current draw, so you can't tell without hooking them to an amp meter. The cheaper ones probably use an inefficient linear regulator down to 5 volts, but I suppose some use more efficient switching/buck converters.
 

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Please pull all positives off one battery and all negatives off the second.

If your max recommended charge is 40A per battery, double up the 40A fuse since batteries are in parallel (learned that from this forum)

Should show a negative returning to battery or the chassis from the inverter.

Second the motion to add fuse near the panels with 4 in parallel.

What's a rover?
 

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Speaking of this, are any 12 volt to USB adapter brands more efficient than others? Most I see don't list their 12 volt current draw, so you can't tell without hooking them to an amp meter. The cheaper ones probably use an inefficient linear regulator down to 5 volts, but I suppose some use more efficient switching/buck converters.
Bluesea says to fuse theirs at 2A and admit to a 15mA parasitic draw. Blackbox doesn't provide any details. Given that little info from them, I'd be surprised to get more details from most vendors.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All good suggestions, thank you so much. I completely don't understand most of it but I'll try to work through.
 

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I would second the use of an RV converter, they are pretty inexpensive, handle all of your 120V and 12V distribution and give you an easy shore power option. I would also look into 12V laptop chargers and a 12V monitor. Really, it appears the only thing you need 120V for is the cook plate. You have plenty / way more than enough 12V power with 400W of solar cells. Based on your loads, you could get by with less.
 

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Do the 12 volt chargers and then look at a Butane cooktop which are wonderful to cook on. Chefs use them all the time at events. Then you won’t need the inverter. I installed one but don’t use it for normal camping.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Iwatani-Corporation-America-ZA-3HP-Portable/dp/B006H42TVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521161268&sr=8-1&keywords=butane+cooktop[/ame]
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks all. The power center mentioned by RDinNHandAZ seems to have the 3 AC options but only 4 DC - not enough:( Plus it's $100 and that seems a bit much for just the AC. I also can't see where you hook stuff up in it - I assume it's evident when you get it but the Blue Seas DC panel is so clear. Hoping for something similarly easy with the AC.

Any comments on a 100A vs 200A stinger relay. Also, what about the gauge and fuses for the battery to inverter, battery to car battery, and/or battery to DC panel runs?

Thanks!
 

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Thanks all. The power center mentioned by RDinNHandAZ seems to have the 3 AC options but only 4 DC - not enough:( Plus it's $100 and that seems a bit much for just the AC. I also can't see where you hook stuff up in it - I assume it's evident when you get it but the Blue Seas DC panel is so clear. Hoping for something similarly easy with the AC.

Any comments on a 100A vs 200A stinger relay. Also, what about the gauge and fuses for the battery to inverter, battery to car battery, and/or battery to DC panel runs?

Thanks!
Go to Gary's site and look at his panel. It has room for 5 AC and 12 DC. That's what I have. Works great and everything is in one nice box. http://www.buildagreenrv.com/d...amper-vans/install-electrical/

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