[Derek Foote]

Going to give it a try replacing my rotor and brake pads. Anyone out there have any experience?

Much appreciated-

Derek

 

[keeponvaning]

Simple 2 hour job at most for the fronts!

 

[Derek Foote]

Thanks- that's what I figured. Trying to avoid any surprises.

 

[jimmbomb]

Thanks- that's what I figured. Trying to avoid any surprises.

Where are you buying your parts from? and what size van?
thanks

 

[Zoomyn]

Notes - their maintenance schedule wants brake fluid flushed every two years, there has to be a reason...

If the fronts wore rapidly being 110% sure back lines & cylinders have ZERO air trapped by doing their flush might pay off.

Keeping the master cylinder reservoir dry before backing out caliper piston & repeating dredging it out so new/old fluid never mixes, fun fun fun.

 

[scottwood2]

Just curious as to how long the brakes last on these? Test drove one yesterday with 38k miles and the service brakes soon warning message appeared when I started the van.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[keeponvaning]

I got 70k something on my 159 high fronts and the rears are still good at 83k. I wouldn’t pay much attention to the warning light - pull off a front wheel and check it visually.

If you need new pads they are under $40 and rotors are $50 each - real easy to change also.

 

[scottwood2]

I got 70k something on my 159 high fronts and the rears are still good at 83k. I wouldn’t pay much attention to the warning light - pull off a front wheel and check it visually.

If you need new pads they are under $40 and rotors are $50 each - real easy to change also.

Good to hear. Might have found a van to buy. Going to go look at it on Monday.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Kip-on-truckin]

The fronts use a hex wrench - forget the size - but they sell it at most tool places including Autozone. You'll need that. Otherwise, nothing special about the brakes on the Promaster.

We drive all highway, so I got well over 200k out of the front pads. Rock Auto carries about 15 different grades of pads. Normally, I'd always recommend using OEM because that's generally the best long term value. But I used cheaper stuff and it seems to be holding up well.

 

[MtBiker]

The fronts use a hex wrench - forget the size - but they sell it at most tool places including Autozone. You'll need that. Otherwise, nothing special about the brakes on the Promaster.

We drive all highway, so I got well over 200k out of the front pads. Rock Auto carries about 15 different grades of pads. Normally, I'd always recommend using OEM because that's generally the best long term value. But I used cheaper stuff and it seems to be holding up well.

200K out of the fronts? Wow, I would bet you could buy the worst pads available and still have good results.

Coming from my old Suburban 1/2 ton to my new 17 2500 159 HiTop I am just loving the brakes in this thing.

 

[mberk4]

just did the research

Going to give it a try replacing my rotor and brake pads. Anyone out there have any experience?

Im at 60k and just due, front more then rear, but close enough im doing them both. I do a lot of around town, a lot with a 10ft trailer. I wanted to use OEM pad since I love the brakes on this thing. there are two #s , one for ventilated rotors one for solid, mine is a 1500, with solid rotors, so here is the number my Vin came up with. 68230105AC ft, 68226919AA rear
PS, I learned the different #s the hard way, ordered, jackup up etc, only to find out the difference.


hope this saves you some trouble

 

[keeponvaning]

I just replaced my rear brake pads & rotors on my '14 159 wb, HT, 2500 at 98,000 miles. It’s a pretty straight forward job but the rears are a bit harder than the fronts because of limited access. with a floor jack.

I got the ceramic pads, rotors and hardware from Amazon at the package price of $97.41 including shipping which is a vey good deal [ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JDVQBC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

This is what the original rotors looked like

The first step is to remove the two 6 mm allen bots that hold on the caliper, next remove the two 22 mm hex bolts that hold on the caliper and pads themselves. They have red Locktite on them so bewared in advance and don’t forget to put some back on when you reassemble it.

the rear rotors have brake shoes in the hub for the emergency brakes and while not usually worn much the rotor itself may be making removal more difficult. They emergency brake shoes can be adjusted in or out buy turning the star wheel through one of the lug nut holes iFlat the rotor seems hard to remove

Here are the new pads and the old ones for comparison

Don’t forget to lube the ends of the new pads and hardware with silicon brake grease

The finished job

 

[phil]

Looks like you still had plenty of pad left or is the picture misleading?

 

[keeponvaning]

I probably had another 10k miles left on the old pads. The rotors were getting scored tho and for $100 it was worth doing everything after 98k mikes and four years!

 

[softfx]

Greetings from Montreal,

Given the outrageous price tag at the dealer. I have decided to replace my pads and rotors myself.
Because I never had the proper space nor the proper tools, I never changed any breaks before on any vehicle I owned. This will be the first time.
That being said, I am mechanically inclined and I did purchase a few tools like a torque wrench , a breaker bar, a piston caliper wind back etc.

So , to make a long story short I am asking for your help to find the right parts at the right price ! I tried Keeponvaning's link for an Amazon rotor and pad rear kit , but when I click on it , it says it doesn't fit my PM 1500

On the sites I have visited , the rear pads don't come with hardware included. Is this normal ?

Also their seems to be a bit of confusion with the proper sizing of the rear pads, something to do with heavy duty vs light duty

Any help with finding the right Front and rear kit would be much much appreciated

I have a Promaster 1500 - 2014 (136in)

Please excuse my English , French Canadian here !

-L

 

[keeponvaning]

The 1500’s sometimes have the smaller brakes and non vented rotors. That is the key non centered rotors use smaller disks. Amazon has both tho. The hardware is usually fine and can be refused it’s just the stainless inserts the pads slide on. Clean and relive with silicon brake grease and you will be fine with the old hardware. I would take s wheel off and see if your rotors are vented or not then get the correct set. Low roof 1500’s are most likely to be the smaller pads

 

[softfx]

Update :

It seems that the 2014 models have something different and I finally found the right kit (for the rear only) here :

[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077JF4H8K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2J7XWWO69IXU3&psc=1[/ame]

Now I am looking for the front kit around the same price ! Callahan doesn't have it for the 2014!

Any suggestions ?

 

[softfx]

The 1500’s sometimes have the smaller brakes and non vented rotors.

Thanks for your answer Keeponvaning. Please excuse my ignorance , but how to I know what is a vented and a non vented rotors ?

Never mind, I got my answer with a 5 second google search :

https://motofaction.org/mechanical-...tween-a-vented-and-solid-brake-disc-or-rotor/

I'll go take the wheel off ....

 

[keeponvaning]

Those look unvented and are probably the correct ones. I believe there are only two different sets of brakes regular unvented rotors and heavy duty vented rotors. They take different pads

 

[softfx]

Too bad they don't have the front kit ! The price is really good!