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Discussion Starter #1
Im looking to replace the door speakers with component separates. I can't find the size listed anywhere. I'm assuming 6.5". Has anyone done this yet and are there any tricks to removing the door panels to gain access to the speakers?

Thanks for any info.
 

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Im looking to replace the door speakers with component separates. I can't find the size listed anywhere. I'm assuming 6.5". Has anyone done this yet and are there any tricks to removing the door panels to gain access to the speakers?

Thanks for any info.
You don't remove the door panel to change the speaker. The little plastic panel over the speaker pops off. Remove it and you can measure speaker. I bought panel removal tools to ensure I didn't scar plastic panels.
 

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www.crutchfield.com

Enter the year of your Promaster in the "what fits my car" area and all the speakers that fit come up. Some fit only with adapter brackets, which they include. They often provide short wires as well to adapt from the OEM speaker wire to the connectors on the aftermarket speaker so that the OEM wiring never has to be cut.
 

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Just ordered a new set of speakers for mine. Actually two sets, the second will be fitted under the black plastic covers to either side of the rear doors.

Crutchfield.com has a pretty good tool for sizing speakers and head units to vehicles. Their prices aren't always the cheapest but will usually include any adapters needed to make the swap. Their tech support is very good after the sale also. To me considering the fit info, instead of guessing, the adapters and free shipping it's worth a few extra $$ to work with somebody that supports you after the sale.

From what they have listed you can fit a 6 1/2" speaker in the door.

They don't have any info on the tweeters though. I might have to spend an extra bit of time on fitting those.

I ordered two sets of Polk Audio db6501's, a 6 1/2" and 1" tweeter component system with crossovers. I'll probably have to search a bit under the dash to find where the speaker wiring splits the front channels between the tweeters and woofers but not worried about that.

I'm planning on fitting the rear speakers under the black plastic covers to the side of each door. Lots of room under there. I'll probably fit the speakers to a thin plywood panel covered with leftover sound damper to keep the ply from vibrating.
 

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You don't remove the door panel to change the speaker. The little plastic panel over the speaker pops off. Remove it and you can measure speaker. I bought panel removal tools to ensure I didn't scar plastic panels.
I'll confirm that! I was all ready to pull the door panel and I noticed that the speaker grill looked like a separate item. It was... easy to pull off.

There's plenty of space underneath for a heavier speaker. The OEM speaker is mounted with 3 screws, so an aftermarket install may need new mounting holes but should be easy to do!

The connections are plug in, but the plug is a strange one. I used some crimp on spade connections to connect without cutting off the original connector.

makevx73, The back door panel sounds like a good idea. Hoping that others are aware that the upfit connector has wires for the rear speakers, but the radio needs a software upgrade if there is no front/back fade control on the screen.


Ed
 

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makevx73, The back door panel sounds like a good idea. Hoping that others are aware that the upfit connector has wires for the rear speakers, but the radio needs a software upgrade if there is no front/back fade control on the screen.
Ed
I plan on using the upfit connector for running wire to to rear. My only wiring question at this point is finding where the tweeters branch off the wiring. Hoping it won't be a problem finding it. I have to wire in the crossovers at that point. If I can't find it I'll probably just run some new wires from the radio compartment to the tweeters.

I have the cheap radio (Uconnent 3.0) and it already has the fader accessible. At least you can see it when you are at the balance/bass/loudness controls. I plan on replacing the radio anyway so if for some reason it doesn't work the rear speakers will get connected after the replacement. I'm still deciding what to replace it with...
 

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I installed components in mine. Yes they're 6.5" in the doors and a 1" tweeter in the A pillar. You'll most likely need to trim a little bit of the inner plastic on the speaker grill since it may touch the surround on the after market speaker. The tweeter will fit but you'll either have to create a mount or simply hot glue it in place.

Running the wiring into the door is probably the toughest part. You can always do your wiring up at radio if you don't find the place where the wiring splits up.
 

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I installed components in mine. Yes they're 6.5" in the doors and a 1" tweeter in the A pillar. You'll most likely need to trim a little bit of the inner plastic on the speaker grill since it may touch the surround on the after market speaker. The tweeter will fit but you'll either have to create a mount or simply hot glue it in place.

Running the wiring into the door is probably the toughest part. You can always do your wiring up at radio if you don't find the place where the wiring splits up.
Thanks for the info. I expected to have to do something like that on the tweeters.
 

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The covers on the door do come off nicely with plastic pry tools. I ended up making a 1/2" thick adapter plate to replicate the 3 holed original speaker since they have odd placement that was beyond the frame of my 6.5" pioneer speaker. I just transferred the shape and hole pattern from the original, the other benefit being it brings the speaker forward to fish mount with the grill. The original speaker has an extended flange that mates with a foam gasket on the grill. I ended up leaving the pillar tweeters as they actually sound decent once the door speakers were replaced. I also kept the original connectors and soldered small brad nails onto some speaker wire and taped it after inserting the nails into the existing connector. My original speakers both had rubbing voice coils from day one, have tiny magnets and strangely enough were made in Poland. The stock MP3 head is fine now.
 

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I started installing my new speakers yesterday. I replaced the stock door speakers to start. Yep, they are a bit cheap aren't they...

Removed the grill.
Removed the speaker.
Used the speaker to mark new holes (4 the factory speaker has 3).
Slipped on the little speed clips, over the new holes.
Plugged in the adapter I received from Crutchfield. (Male side) to match the factory speaker plug (female side).
Poked the speaker connection through the foam baffles I'm putting the speakers in and plugged them to the speaker.
Set the baffle and speaker in place and screwed them in.

Sounds pretty good. The tweeters will be another day when I have time to remove the trim...
 

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My original speakers both had rubbing voice coils from day one, have tiny magnets and strangely enough were made in Poland. The stock MP3 head is fine now.
Funny, I picked up my van two states away. As I was driving home from the dealer, about halfway I turned on the radio to try it. That's when I noticed that the driver door speaker had exactly what you describe - a rubbing voice coil!

At some point I'll replace with better speakers, but instead of warranty work, I replaced mine myself with an OEM speaker. It cost under $7, which is a pretty good measure of the true value of the factory speakers.

Ed
 

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Funny, I picked up my van two states away. As I was driving home from the dealer, about halfway I turned on the radio to try it. That's when I noticed that the driver door speaker had exactly what you describe - a rubbing voice coil!

At some point I'll replace with better speakers, but instead of warranty work, I replaced mine myself with an OEM speaker. It cost under $7, which is a pretty good measure of the true value of the factory speakers.

Ed
How can I tell if I have "rubbing voice coils"?
My tunes sounds ok unless theres too much bass in some songs..
And i get an annoying vibration in the drivers door panel at high bass at volume
thanks
 

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How can I tell if I have "rubbing voice coils"?
My tunes sounds ok unless theres too much bass in some songs..
And i get an annoying vibration in the drivers door panel at high bass at volume
thanks
Cheap speakers = crappy sound Not many ways around that other than replacing the speakers

The vibration can/is from at the plastic around the speaker also. That's why people put dynamat or similar in the door panels - to reduce all that plastic rattlin'
 

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I started installing my new speakers yesterday. I replaced the stock door speakers to start. Yep, they are a bit cheap aren't they...

Removed the grill.
Removed the speaker.
Used the speaker to mark new holes (4 the factory speaker has 3).
Slipped on the little speed clips, over the new holes.
Plugged in the adapter I received from Crutchfield. (Male side) to match the factory speaker plug (female side).
Poked the speaker connection through the foam baffles I'm putting the speakers in and plugged them to the speaker.
Set the baffle and speaker in place and screwed them in.

Sounds pretty good. The tweeters will be another day when I have time to remove the trim...
What speakers did you go with and how do they sound?
 

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I had one speaker than buzzed sometimes. The speaker had a ribbon of foam under the flange. I replaced that foam with a ribbon of dynamat. Problem fixed.
 

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How can I tell if I have "rubbing voice coils"?
Rubbing voice coils sound like a piece of sandpaper rubbing across a sheet of suspended paper, only at certain frequencies, usually the bass ones.

The voice coil, which is a coil of wire wrapped around a paper tube that surrounds the magnet rubs against the magnet or supporting frame, because something is off center. If you gently push on the speaker cone (radio off), and you hear a scratchy sound, that's probably it!

Ed
 

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Rubbing voice coils sound like a piece of sandpaper rubbing across a sheet of suspended paper, only at certain frequencies, usually the bass ones.

The voice coil, which is a coil of wire wrapped around a paper tube that surrounds the magnet rubs against the magnet or supporting frame, because something is off center. If you gently push on the speaker cone (radio off), and you hear a scratchy sound, that's probably it!

Ed
Ahhhhh.. ok.. well, i dont think I have that.. Only plastic rattling at high bass at volume. .
i will still change out the speakers though.
what is the speaker of choice that most of youse are going with??
then ill deal with the vibrating panel... if there is a way to do that without removing the panel like in the speaker r/r(remove/replace)
 

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Seems like the defective speaker thing is pretty common. My driver side speaker has a rubbing voice coil as well, truly irritating when listening to any music...I don't notice it with news radio. Probably going to splurge on a full system with a separate amp and high end component speakers.

Any tips on removing the trim from the pillar holding the tweeter?
 

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What speakers did you go with and how do they sound?
I bought Polk Audio DB6501's. A 6 1/2" woofer, separate tweeter and crossovers. On sale from Crutchfield now. Shipping, wiring adapters and mounting adapters included also. I used the wiring but chose not the use the mounting adapters.

I've installed the woofers with a noticeable improvement. Once the crossovers are wired in and tweeters installed I expect even more improvement. I expect they will be a bit under powered with the base/Uconnect 3 radio but do plan to upgrade/replace it also.

I also bought a second set I'm installing in the rear under the black trim panels beside the doors. The woofers went in easy. I have to make a bracket to hold the tweeters. Once that's done I'll post some photos.
 
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