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One of my radiator cooling fans has gotten wobbly and is causing my entire radiator assembly and everything attached to it to vibrate really bad. I am trying to find info on swapping it out the fan assembly but am coming up with nothing. Any help here? Thanks
 

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Yes, buying it is the easy part. I am trying to find installation instructions as it is not obvious on how to remove it. Not sure if the radiator neeeds to be removed in order to get it out.
 

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It’s quite easy to remove the whole front grill assembly. I’m not sure where the fan is without going outside in the 28°f cold to check but I would assume it is in front of the radiator and should be accessible then.
 

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Yes, buying it is the easy part. I am trying to find installation instructions as it is not obvious on how to remove it. Not sure if the radiator neeeds to be removed in order to get it out.
Did you ever install that fan? I'm about to have to do the same.

Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
 

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I have replaced 2 fan assemblies over the combined 780,000 miles on my vans. You are in luck, it’s fairly easy. And just in the last few months the aftermarket got their act together, and fan assemblies are half the price of the oem and look to be identical.

1. Remove the metal core support. 4 bolts. You may need to remove hood latch, but you dont have to disturb coolant bottle. Swing it out of your way.

2. Remove grille. Uses a torx screw, maybe a T6. Commit and pull both halves of the grille.

3. Disconnect 2 large relays at fan, and 2 small resistor plugs. Note wire routing. Take a photo, trust me.

4. It’s a finagle, but there are two locking tabs at the top of the fan assembly, and one tab bottom center. The lower 2 are just pins. Use a screwdriver to pry on the top two, and it will pop loose.

5. It can come out from the top, but I think it’s easier from the bottom. But top will work if you dont have ramps.

6. Before reassembly, take a look at the engine. Notice how with the grille off and the core support and fans out, you have prrfect access to EVERYTHING. So by being able to remove that stuff, you just saved $600 in labor if you need an alternator, starter, belt drive, trans stuff, exhaust stuff, etc. WORDS OF WISDOM: put anti-seize on all those bolts, you’ll be back here someday and thanking me!
 

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I have replaced 2 fan assemblies over the combined 780,000 miles on my vans. You are in luck, it’s fairly easy. And just in the last few months the aftermarket got their act together, and fan assemblies are half the price of the oem and look to be identical.

1. Remove the metal core support. 4 bolts. You may need to remove hood latch, but you dont have to disturb coolant bottle. Swing it out of your way.

2. Remove grille. Uses a torx screw, maybe a T6. Commit and pull both halves of the grille.

3. Disconnect 2 large relays at fan, and 2 small resistor plugs. Note wire routing. Take a photo, trust me.

4. It’s a finagle, but there are two locking tabs at the top of the fan assembly, and one tab bottom center. The lower 2 are just pins. Use a screwdriver to pry on the top two, and it will pop loose.

5. It can come out from the top, but I think it’s easier from the bottom. But top will work if you dont have ramps.

6. Before reassembly, take a look at the engine. Notice how with the grille off and the core support and fans out, you have prrfect access to EVERYTHING. So by being able to remove that stuff, you just saved $600 in labor if you need an alternator, starter, belt drive, trans stuff, exhaust stuff, etc. WORDS OF WISDOM: put anti-seize on all those bolts, you’ll be back here someday and thanking me!
Thank you for the write up! Where did you buy your fans from? And when mean metal core support, are you talking about bolts on the fan itself? Also did you complete this job working from the top or working from the buttom? Thanks again.
 

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Soon I hope to start doing videos on promaster repairs. Help some folks get over their fear of the unknown.

By metal piece I mean the upper support piece, the thing the hood latch is attached to. Two 10mm bolts take it off, but the grille needs out first. That metal piece is what locks the radiator in place, and the fan asswmbly is attached to the rad itself. Forgot to mention you’ll need to remove the air intake at the upper support. Hose clamp. Simple.

Dealers want $450 for the fan assembly, called the fan module. Online you’ll find it from dealer resellers for around $315. But aftermarket it’s $132!

As a general rule, start at Rockauto.com. They are cheapest/best for almost everything. Searching there will also give you the factory part number, which you can type directly into google and click the shopping tab. Armed with the oem part number, you’ll also discover what vehicles and what years that specific part fits. TONS of parts are common between tge pm and other pentastar powered chryslers 2011-up.

You can r&r the fan assembly from the top or bottom. It’s slightly easier from the bottom if you have ramps or a tall jack. But top isn’t too different.
 

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Soon I hope to start doing videos on promaster repairs. Help some folks get over their fear of the unknown.

By metal piece I mean the upper support piece, the thing the hood latch is attached to. Two 10mm bolts take it off, but the grille needs out first. That metal piece is what locks the radiator in place, and the fan asswmbly is attached to the rad itself. Forgot to mention you’ll need to remove the air intake at the upper support. Hose clamp. Simple.

Dealers want $450 for the fan assembly, called the fan module. Online you’ll find it from dealer resellers for around $315. But aftermarket it’s $132!

As a general rule, start at Rockauto.com. They are cheapest/best for almost everything. Searching there will also give you the factory part number, which you can type directly into google and click the shopping tab. Armed with the oem part number, you’ll also discover what vehicles and what years that specific part fits. TONS of parts are common between tge pm and other pentastar powered chryslers 2011-up.

You can r&r the fan assembly from the top or bottom. It’s slightly easier from the bottom if you have ramps or a tall jack. But top isn’t too different.
Ok great I just looked at your detailed steps and it’s seem pretty straightforward. My fans just went out completely yesterday smh. Now when I’m stopped and idling the temperature rise. Did you also change the fan relay when you did your fan replacement? And do you know where it’s located? When you’re fans was going bad what were your symptoms.
 

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Do NOT drive if the temp gauge is showing anything other than dead center. I’ve tested this, and by the time the gauge moves you are at 248 degrees!

Both times I replaced the fan assembly, I was given plenty of warning. The fan woukd be very noisy when it came on, and if you grabbed the fan blades you could wiggle it. It was obvious the bearing was going out.

The relays for each fan are mounted on the fan shroud, and come already mounted with the new fan assembly.

You might also check the fuse. Each fan has it’s own, and they are in the underhood fusebox. But if the fuse or the relay is the problem, you’ll have a check engine light and code. If tge fan is mechanically failed, you may not.
 
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Do NOT drive if the temp gauge is showing anything other than dead center. I’ve tested this, and by the time the gauge moves you are at 248 degrees!

Both times I replaced the fan assembly, I was given plenty of warning. The fan woukd be very noisy when it came on, and if you grabbed the fan blades you could wiggle it. It was obvious the bearing was going out.

The relays for each fan are mounted on the fan shroud, and come already mounted with the new fan assembly.

You might also check the fuse. Each fan has it’s own, and they are in the underhood fusebox. But if the fuse or the relay is the problem, you’ll have a check engine light and code. If tge fan is mechanically failed, you may not.
Ok I just ordered new radiator fans. I also discovered yesterday that the “Engine Cooling Fan - 1st speed” #F07 60amp fuse was blown. As soon as I replaced it the fan started back working and blew the fuse again after leaving a burnt smell under the hood.
 

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Fuse is blowing because that fan is bad and drawing too
Much juice. Replacing the fans should do the trick.
 

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It’s fiddly, but a screwdriver into the side clips will free them as you pull the fans up. The electrical connectors are squeeze and pull. The squeezy parts are “labelled” with lines for finger grip.

Good luck.
 
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It’s fiddly, but a screwdriver into the side clips will free them as you pull the fans up. The electrical connectors are squeeze and pull. The squeezy parts are “labelled” with lines for finger grip.

Good luck.

Ok I finally got the new one on and went to connect everything and noticed this one connector is different
 

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From the picture, it looks EXACTLY like you are trying to plug the oxygen sensor into the fan.

Those fan connectors should be identical - big square black plastic affairs. There shoukd also be two small brown plastic plugs that go to the resistors on each fan.

Keep looking, it’s hiding in there somewhere.
 

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Looking closer, it does appear your old fan was oddball. The good news is that each fan only has two pins - a big power and ground. You may need to figure out a way to connect those two wires, then the plug type doesnt matter.

But its very weird regardless. Maybe yours was a super early build, maybe the fan was replaced at some point. Maybe it came with the diesel fan (dunno if thats any different).
 
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