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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We are looking at getting a 159 High Roof to refrigerate (Pacific Northwest....only a couple of 90 degree days a year).
Will the gas engine drive refrigeration.....hoping so since the diesels are so delayed.
There are some pretty decent all electric refrigeration options, but may require engine driven compressor.
Has anyone installed second alternator or refrigeration compressor? How is the engine space for adding belt driven devices.

I should add I am talking about full insulation and refrigeration for delivery purposes, not RV refer.
prohbob
 

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I know nothing about whole truck refrigeration. That being said...

... might you be better off getting a cab chassis version of the Promaster and having a refrigeration box on the chassis? Lots of the refrigerated trucks I see are boxes added to a cab chassis van.

ed
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know nothing about whole truck refrigeration. That being said...

... might you be better off getting a cab chassis version of the Promaster and having a refrigeration box on the chassis? Lots of the refrigerated trucks I see are boxes added to a cab chassis van.

ed

We thought of that and see a lot of that in Europe. However, we are looking to have a dry storage area up to back of side door (48") followed by 8 feet of insulated refrigerated. We have seen the long sprinter configured this way
and it works out really well. Dry storage or row of seats in front....refer in back. Still room for two pallets in refer.
And, if we where going to go with a cutaway with box, we would likely go ahead and get an Isuzu/Mitsubishi for the front end...diesel and likely to last 300-400K
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looking in trucktrader etc I see a whole lot of Sprinter and Transit refrigerated vans and virtually no Promasters. I much much prefer the Promaster for several reasons. Why
are so few refrigerated?
 

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Large Second Alternator

There is a kit available from Nations Starter & Alternator to add a second (280amp) belt-driven alternator to the gas Promaster. We have purchased this kit and have it 90% installed, but obviously haven't used it. DAVE IS NOT HOME also has this modification and has some experience with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I saw this one a few weeks ago. Looks like it has a rebuilt title, but the price seems like a steal for one already converted (Assuming everything is legit and checks out).

http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5951783115.html
If this was west coast I might grab it....does rebuilt title like a salvage title?
We need white body so we can put logos on it.

Good find....let me know if you see anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There is a kit available from Nations Starter & Alternator to add a second (280amp) belt-driven alternator to the gas Promaster. We have purchased this kit and have it 90% installed, but obviously haven't used it. DAVE IS NOT HOME also has this modification and has some experience with it.
That will more than run the electric refer units.
Thanks....If you have photos of the install that would be great.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here are some photos . . . without the belt which we'll add when we're ready to test and use this system . . . including one with our smiling mechanic, son Timothy.





Thanks Winston...is that bracket from the alternator supplier or custom? Is that also where you would mount a compressor if you went with that option?
What are you going to drive with that alternator?
 

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Thanks Winston...is that bracket from the alternator supplier or custom? Is that also where you would mount a compressor if you went with that option?
What are you going to drive with that alternator?
The kit is complete with all hardware and brackets necessary. So, the answer is, the bracket is custom made by the supplier! :~) We can't answer your question on compressor mounting - - but if belt-driven, it would seem that it would have to be located in this space.

The theory behind this alternator is, first, to have a separate charging system for our lithium batteries which have a different charging profile than the more-common lead-acid/AGM counterparts. We don't want to tie the lead-acid starting battery system to the lithium battery system. Second, the alternator is intended to work in combination with a large charger/sine wave inverter to replace the separate, large and bulky, and often malfunctioning "generator". It is planned that, rather than run a loud (and often banned) generator, we'll simply idle the van and have close to 3KW of AC available.

By the way, one of the complaints about this set-up is 'ground clearance' and the possibility that one could hit a curb or otherwise destroy the installation while back-roading. We intend on building some form of protection before seriously hitting the road. And in this connection, you might find TheFitRV site of interest. They published an article on their 2nd alternator installation and, later, this note on protecting the alternator: https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/protecting-the-second-alternator-a-skid-plate-for-the-promaster/
 

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Be very careful on idling. Some members have reported engine problems after long ide times (gas). Diesels have emissions related problems with long idling, as well.
 

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What's your Li ion battery setup? I thought maybe the time had arrived to use Li ion rather than lead for a house battery but it doesn't seem to be here yet.
 

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The kit is complete with all hardware and brackets necessary. So, the answer is, the bracket is custom made by the supplier! :~) We can't answer your question on compressor mounting - - but if belt-driven, it would seem that it would have to be located in this space.

The theory behind this alternator is, first, to have a separate charging system for our lithium batteries which have a different charging profile than the more-common lead-acid/AGM counterparts. We don't want to tie the lead-acid starting battery system to the lithium battery system. Second, the alternator is intended to work in combination with a large charger/sine wave inverter to replace the separate, large and bulky, and often malfunctioning "generator". It is planned that, rather than run a loud (and often banned) generator, we'll simply idle the van and have close to 3KW of AC available.

By the way, one of the complaints about this set-up is 'ground clearance' and the possibility that one could hit a curb or otherwise destroy the installation while back-roading. We intend on building some form of protection before seriously hitting the road. And in this connection, you might find TheFitRV site of interest. They published an article on their 2nd alternator installation and, later, this note on protecting the alternator: https://www.thefitrv.com/rv-tips/protecting-the-second-alternator-a-skid-plate-for-the-promaster/
It seems to me, that the optimum thing to do in this scenario would be to mount an actual generator in place of the alternator. Generators are the best source of Pure Sine power. It delivers the same wave form as you get from shore power. It would also be the most efficient power production, rather than producing DC power coupled with the loss of getting it to the back of the van, coupled with the loss of converting it to Pure Sine AC power. There is more loss in the conversion process for pure sine inverters than for modified sine. Ones that actually do it right and aren't just labeled "pure sine," are expensive.

There is much much less loss with AC, and you can use much smaller wire from the engine to the house, without worrying about loss.

-t
 

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It seems to me, that the optimum thing to do in this scenario would be to mount an actual generator in place of the alternator.
Makes sense to me (but what do I know, I ride a bike, lol).

What I really want to say is that I've thought,why not take it the last step: have the vehicle A/C compressor be motor powered, like it is common for the cooling fan on vehicles. Motoring down the road, the controls call for A/C and the alternator output spins the compressor. But, when stopped, your house battery or shore power can feed the juice.

So you get cooling when moving, when stopped, with shore power, without. Don't need another A/C compressor, heat exchanger, etc. May well have to have the engine cooling fan (electric, of course) kick in for heat exchanger air flow when stopped. And a larger alternator and a motor for the A/C compressor (also the dash blower able to run while stopped, etc.). But the extra alternator size and this motor have to come out smaller, lighter, cheaper than having a whole second A/C unit strapped to the roof. And correspondingly, more time off the house battery as you don't have house battery through inverter to compressor motor but just house battery to compressor motor.

Just thinking outside the box, the 136"WB box. Oh, and please cite me on the patent app.
 
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