Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey!

I am trying to figure out the best way to put up wall panels in my bed area. Like many of you, I would like to sleep lengthwise in the van, but I need every inch I can get. What strategies have you used to put in recessed wall panels?

More specifically, what have you attached your panels to while preserving maximum space? Furring strips? Rivnuts? Self-tapping screws through the ribs?

Im a little at a loss! Thanks in advance. Bonus points for pictures.

juan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
We haven't got to that step yet but my idea is to put in 1 inch of polyiso secured straight to the panel and then covered with some kind of a cloth or vinyl in the area where the heads and feet would be.

The other wall areas would get a more complex treatment, but especially in the bed area there wouldn't be any paneling or furring strips to take up space
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
Windows in the head and/or feet area would give you more space than insulation. Vertical placement of the bed matters too as the walls are not straight.

In my real world experience with the factory wall panels which are really pretty ideal since the molding is "indented" between the attachment ribs Ive found that sleeping perpendicular to the van is not that great. Im only 5'7" and still need to sleep diagonally to stretch out. You really want to choose the right pillow as a standard pillow is much "deeper" than needed and results in wasted space. Im now working on a plan to change my layout from a platform bed sleeping perpendicular to bunk beds sleeping parallel.
 

·
Registered
2017 159" 2500.
Joined
·
88 Posts
Mine is crossways across the rear. At the head/foot I used 0.5" of polyiso rather than the lower-R 1-2" of XPS I used elsewhere. This yields an extra inch. It is otherwise unfinished, just the foamboard in that cubby.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
I went above the back horizontal beams, then added 1.5" side x 1" thick wood vertical strips to attach walls to. These are about 2" away from the van skin (1" strip of polyiso behind for thermal break), and this yields a 75" wide area for the bed even with decent wall insulation and thickness. I used pocket holes and screws into the metal on each end of the wood 'stud'. I didn't find a good pic to send, sorry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,073 Posts
Just glue some EVA floor tiles or something similar directly to the metal, no finish required, insulates and you only lose .5 inch each side.
61332
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,812 Posts
Ya know what Phil, I was gonna pack the slider with poly fill and just glue my foam-backed headliner material to the metal or a thin panel.
But MsNomer mentioned the inside of the slider getting wet from rain when it's open.
A thin layer of that eva stuff, like a thin yoga mat might be the ticket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,073 Posts
Every door gets wet when it's opened while it's raining :)
I glued 3 of these on my slider.
61333

I used neon orange yoga mat in the recessed panel behind the driver.
61334
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well I figured out a solution that works for me, and allows the bed to be 6'3'' to 6'4''.

Basically I glued 3/4inch furring strips to the wall with Loctite PL 3x, and then I screwed a 1/4inch painted plywood panel (cut to shape) to the furring strips. For insulation, I used a combo of sheep's wool (the majority of my build) and 1/2 inch poly iso board.
62122

62123

62124

62125
62126
62127



I will probably add some trim later on down the line, and maybe paint over the screws. Hope this helps somebody who was in the same predicament I was. Cheers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
I recently reworked one of my existing panels to do exactly what you are asking about. I cut a hole in my wall panel and screwed the bump out frame to the existing panel that now looks more like a window frame. I used 2x6’s and a jig saw to cut rounded corners to get the depth. They were the perfect depth to take the back of the bump out to the cross member. Sorry, this is hard to describe without pictures. I used two layers of thinsulate when I built the wall the first time so I just removed enough of one layer for the space created by the bump out. I’m 6’1 and I found the inch and a half extra makes a big difference. Planning to do the other side soon. I will take some pictures and post when I do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
220 Posts
I use a sheet of kydex backed by reflectix (as a thernal break between the vertical rib and the kydex) over my thinsulate insulation. My bed is 48 inches wide and the kydex sheet I used is 4 feet wide and 2 feet tall. The head and foot of the bed has the least insulation of anywhere in the van. Most everywhere else I have thinsulate with XPS (lower parts) or polyiso (upper parts) over the thinsulate.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top