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Discussion Starter #1
Anytime I accidentally bump my rear cargo light into the on position the light will stay on even after I turn back to the auto position. Anyone else have this problem?

The light will eventually start working like normal again after a couple of days of driving around with the light always on, but that's really annoying.

Also does anyone know how to replace the bulbs in the cargo lights? I can't figure out how to remove them but I'd like to replace them with led's.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
According to the owners manual the rearmost cargo light doesn't have an OFF position. The middle position is auto and the right and left position is ON.

I leave the light in the AUTO position unless I accidentally bump it.
 

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I replaced both of mine with LED bulbs. The side one is great, off is off. But the rear one always has current flowing through it, and resistance of LED bulbs is so low that it is always on (or flickering). I'll be removing that bulb...

The plastic housing has a clip on the short sides. Use something that will not scratch the paint and just pry up the ends. It will take an uncomfortable amount of force. Maybe even push the clip in as you are doing that.

I would like to replace the front dome bulbs. Haven't figured out how to do that yet.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So after about a week of driving around with the rear cargo light on all the time, really annoying at night, I just took the light out. Not sure what went wrong with the light. I'll have the dealer look at it when I take it in for the recall.

I wish the rear light was the same as the side one with an on/auto/off setting.
 

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As a part of my conversion, I'll be putting in a switch for the rear light so it can be turned off. I'd like to use the existing holes in the rear beam for the switch, but that is turning out to be difficult. I'll start a conversion thread somewhere once I'm more into this and show what I came up with.

Steve
 

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The side light is wired to a ground trigger meaning ground is applied to complete the circuit either through the sliding door trigger or by moving the lense to actuate the constant trigger keeping the light on. One is ground trigger for the sliding doors, middle is constant 12 volts, and the last is ground constant.

The rear most light is wired different. The three wires going into the light are as follows rear door trigger ground, 12 volt constant, and sliding door trigger ground. If you wired a switch to any of the grounds on this harness and tied it to ground you can have an on off switch for the rear most light.

As for the LED light conversion, you are correct. If you replaced the bulb there is enough current bleed through the circuit to keep the light slightly lit when the doors are closed. You can correct this with a 1K resistor to act as a load to keep the LED's from becoming lit when the doors are closed.

I wired both interior lights together meaning if any of the doors are opened both lights come on. I wired both door triggers together and installed a strip of LED stick up lights. I also left the stock bulbs in place to act as a load for the LED's so they don't dim light when the doors are closed.

This works great for a cargo van with no head liner. If you have a head liner then you would have to remove it to tie the lights together. Anyhow just thought I would share since I tore into the lights to install my LED light strip.
 

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Thank you so much Cablefed! Your diagnosis of the ground wires saved me a lot of hassle. I did not need the back light to go on with any door opening, so I inserted a small length of shrink wrap tubing in the circuit, inside the light itself, disconnecting one of those grounds. This makes the left and center positions of the light off (a true off), and the right position on. woohoo!

Steve
 

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Thank you so much Cablefed! Your diagnosis of the ground wires saved me a lot of hassle. I did not need the back light to go on with any door opening, so I inserted a small length of shrink wrap tubing in the circuit, inside the light itself, disconnecting one of those grounds. This makes the left and center positions of the light off (a true off), and the right position on. woohoo!

Steve


That works great Thanks Cablefed and Steve
 

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I did not need the back light to go on with any door opening, so I inserted a small length of shrink wrap tubing in the circuit, inside the light itself, disconnecting one of those grounds. This makes the left and center positions of the light off (a true off), and the right position on. woohoo!

Steve
Steve!!!!!! You are the MAN! Working on my conversion now and this light has been driving me nuts while taking measurements. Also just refinished the scratched floor with some epoxy paint and didn't want that light on while everything airs out :) This was just the ticket. You da best.
 

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Steve!!!!!! You are the MAN! Working on my conversion now and this light has been driving me nuts while taking measurements. Also just refinished the scratched floor with some epoxy paint and didn't want that light on while everything airs out :) This was just the ticket. You da best.
Thanks for the kind words! I should correct the post; the on position is not always an on, it depends on how long ago a door was opened. Don't know the time offhand.

I too had to paint my floor before putting in my floor, and the metal surface had *very* little use that caused the scratches (just a large plastic container on one trip)

Steve
 

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The side light is wired to a ground trigger meaning ground is applied to complete the circuit either through the sliding door trigger or by moving the lense to actuate the constant trigger keeping the light on. One is ground trigger for the sliding doors, middle is constant 12 volts, and the last is ground constant.

The rear most light is wired different. The three wires going into the light are as follows rear door trigger ground, 12 volt constant, and sliding door trigger ground. If you wired a switch to any of the grounds on this harness and tied it to ground you can have an on off switch for the rear most light.

As for the LED light conversion, you are correct. If you replaced the bulb there is enough current bleed through the circuit to keep the light slightly lit when the doors are closed. You can correct this with a 1K resistor to act as a load to keep the LED's from becoming lit when the doors are closed.

I wired both interior lights together meaning if any of the doors are opened both lights come on. I wired both door triggers together and installed a strip of LED stick up lights. I also left the stock bulbs in place to act as a load for the LED's so they don't dim light when the doors are closed.

This works great for a cargo van with no head liner. If you have a head liner then you would have to remove it to tie the lights together. Anyhow just thought I would share since I tore into the lights to install my LED light strip.
Bringing this back up because i am adding led lighting also.
Can you tell me which of the 3 wires on each of the lights you used to tie together?
Theres 3 wires going to each one on my 17 pmc.
Thanks
 

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My rear light seems to get moved even when I don't hit it. Is it possible just driving will move the rear light to the ON position? It is not a short as the light turns off when I go back there and push it back to the center off position. It does not have a very
definitive click when you toggle it back and forth.
 

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It's nowhere near as bad as the spring loaded wind-up feeling on the temp knob! Put some electrical tape on it. It's pliable enough that you'll still be able to toggle it.
 

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my rear dome was checked by dealer and found the on auto which is the dome switch all the way left will not work and neither will the side light by 12 volt outlet. The door when open should show on dash as rear door ajar. They said there is a short in the wiring because the light works on manual, side light does not work and no warning door is open, Switches all checked out but they need it a day or longer because it is not talking to the front modules do to a short in the wiring.
 

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I have a 2015 SLT. My rear cargo and my middle above seats lights are worked with a rocker action. To the left is off, middle works with doors and right is constant on. Yes, I replaced with LED and yes they have a trickle light that stays on. I just switched them off and use when needed. I installed LED lights under dash so when I get inside I can see the floor. I hate not having lights there. Works only on front door switch. Not on timed delay either. When door is opened they go on, when door is closed they go off, PERIOD!! Installing 6x9 speeakers in rear area between doors and side panel. Bought some 1.5" speaker spacers and slim Super Bass speakers. Tying them into and eliminating the rear speakers that are for **** from factory! No cutting needed. Will let you know how it turns out!
 

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As for the LED light conversion, you are correct. If you replaced the bulb there is enough current bleed through the circuit to keep the light slightly lit when the doors are closed. You can correct this with a 1K resistor to act as a load to keep the LED's from becoming lit when the doors are closed.
Do I need to put a 1k resistor in line with each wire coming into the rear cargo light?
 
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