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I'm upfitting my ProMaster and have all the components assembled and positioned, ready to anchor to the floor. I also have a Vantred cargo mat installed. The mat has a textured surface with a kind of honeycomb-type sub-layer formed to match the ribs on the floor, providing some cushion, but it's firm enough to make it near impossible to know where the ribs are when you're standing on it, but I plan to anchor through the ribs once I find them.

I'm thinking I should cut out small sections of the cargo mat and put metal spacers (a stack of fender washers) between the actual van floor and bottom of the shelving to provide a solid anchor point. The less involved approach would be to anchor the shelving through the cargo mat, which would allow the mat to compress when the shelves are loaded.

Am I over-engineering this? Is there another, better way to do this?
 

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im in the same spot as you looking for advice. my employers vans have adrian steel cabinets bolted directly to the floor. i wanted to use polyiso and ply over
then bolt down.
 

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I used the stacked washers trick to prevent the foam from crushing and keep the floor flat. Worked very well and is very solid.
 

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van diesel did you use rivnuts in the floor or bolts? my van had shelves removed when i got it they left the bolts in the rivnuts. i've seen alot of people use tons of self
tappers in plywood and to hold shelves! curious what your approach was.
 

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dogrunner.

I used 5/16 Plusnuts in the floor and 1/4 Plusnuts in the walls. The Plusnuts have a bigger flange on the back than the rivnuts is why I used them. All of them anchored into metal and spacers used when needed. They worked great and I would use them again. I am anchoring everything well because we do not want to be wacked in the head in the event of an accident.
 

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fastenal,grainger,mcmaster carr no plusnuts. mine sharing where yours came from? ebay has some but i'm a little sceptical about the quality.
 

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Depending on your configuration, you may be able to use the factory cargo hold down locations in the floor and sidewalls where the D rings are. You can just get longer machine screws to accommodate your flooring and shelving material. That way you have ready made, reinforced, threaded inserts to use. I remember the floor used size M8, 1.25 pitch. There are also two unused, heavily reinforced, threaded inserts on each side just to the rear of the sliding door. They are maybe for seat belts or some sort of upfitting as they seem to be the only SAE threads on the entire van.
 
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I must be installing my plusnuts wrong...putting them in the hexagonal holes in the horizontal ribs or supports but they tend to spin. I can see the metal around the holes deforming (puckering?) a little once they tighten and that's when I stop. I'm not torquing the **** out of these and I believe following directions on install. Could the metal thickness be an issue? Too thin?
 

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I think you'd be better off with hex or half hex rivnuts rather than plusnuts here.

Haven't used plusnuts. I could see where they might be better pull-through wise, but I don't see where they would help with spinning problems, which seem to be a more common issue. They also seem harder to find in small lots and expensive.

Can you use a rivnut tool like the Astro with them? If so I might consider them for round hole applications, otherwise I think I"ll pass.
 

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I purchased my Plusnuts from Ebay in lots of 20 and that included the installation tool. I never had any spinning problems but I used my Dewalt driver to install them and cranked them down hard. I did not try any of the existing hex holes. Just drill your own snug hole and install, very easy.
 

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Good to know about the eBay source. All I found was Jay-Cee Sales on Amazon which only did lots of 100 and the tool they sell is $67.

I'm surprised you found spots to drill holes, there are so many hex, round and oval holes already!

I might use them for a hoop step install. The smaller tool that comes with the plus nuts could come in handy in tight quarters down there.
 

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i bought bolhoff plusnuts from liberty engineering in strongsville ohio. watched a youtube video on install without the tool. you do need a snug fit for them and you do need to torque them down tight. when they are fully collapsed you can see the 4 bars inside. you have to pay attention to the grip range the thinnest metal will be tight on .020 on low end of range.i wasted about 4 practicing before i tried on the van. the steel 5/16ths take a bit of muscle to start collapsing lol.they work like a charm once installed. check you tube there are some short but effective vids. on install with home made tool or just buy the **** tool for 40 bucks.if you go homemade route pick up some k nuts for your homemade tool makes job lots easier. thanks to all who have responded on this one you guys are good.
 

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ziggy star dog if your paying more than 75-80 cents a piece i would say thats to much
This is 6 to 8 times the price of an average rivnut. That's what I mean about plusnuts being expensive. The Astro Tool for rivnuts isn't exactly cheap but it looks more substantial than the plusnut tools I've seen, and it comes with an assortment of rivnuts and mandrels.

Given that they don't seem to make hex or even metric plusnuts, I'm struggling to justify using them. To each his own, but rivnuts seem more cost-effective and versatile to me.
 

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hex nut

Given that they don't seem to make hex or even metric plusnuts, I'm struggling to justify using them. To each his own, but rivnuts seem more cost-effective and versatile to me.

There are some hex nuts available that fit in the van. I bought some from China based on what a few have ordered in this forum.
 

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There are some hex nuts available that fit in the van. I bought some from China based on what a few have ordered in this forum.
Yes, I've bought and used two different sizes of these myself, but they are rivnuts-- not plusnuts (aka crossnuts) which are a similar but different type of fastener. They get the name from the cross or plus symbol that is formed when they are cinched down.

I'm not aware of any hex style plusnuts, but if you have a source please post.
 

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I'm upfitting my ProMaster and have all the components assembled and positioned, ready to anchor to the floor. I also have a Vantred cargo mat installed. The mat has a textured surface with a kind of honeycomb-type sub-layer formed to match the ribs on the floor, providing some cushion, but it's firm enough to make it near impossible to know where the ribs are when you're standing on it, but I plan to anchor through the ribs once I find them.

I'm thinking I should cut out small sections of the cargo mat and put metal spacers (a stack of fender washers) between the actual van floor and bottom of the shelving to provide a solid anchor point. The less involved approach would be to anchor the shelving through the cargo mat, which would allow the mat to compress when the shelves are loaded.

Am I over-engineering this? Is there another, better way to do this?
I bought used weather guard shelving for a different van years ago,and after the #10 self tappers wore out and my unit almost fell off the walls, I went to the local weather guard distributor and they gave me a pack of proper anchors that haven’t failed me yet. A very beefy, almost toggle, but better. Drill hole. Insert threaded body, tighten.The back side mushrooms. Then take out the bolt, slide in unit, bolt it in. Works on vertical columns and floors.

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