Ram Promaster Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This is my latest wiring diagram. I have everything here except the wire and the breakers (I have the 2/0 and lugs).
I am not sure of any of this. Please let me know your thoughts. The questions in pink are bugging me the most. Maybe others should be bugging me even more?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,809 Posts
Others will add. I would have only ONE negative wire from the coach battery to ground (chassis and the 2-0 wire is fine for that, all the current goes through the shunt on the negative side and I would limit the fuse on the Battery Doctor to 100 amps, and fuse it near the starter battery AND at the coach battery.
The black wire on the output of the inverter should not go through the shunt but should parallel the hot wire. The wire from your 30 amp inlet should show two wires and neither should be grounded in the van anywhere! Those wires should be have a breaker at 30 amps.
The circuits from the DC fuse box can each be grounded to the chassis or wire runs for both + and - its up to you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Skaggydog

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,074 Posts
I can only pretend to help having been in this game a little over 8 weeks
but I think you need a fuse/breaker as close as possible to the van/starting battery
AND a fuse/breaker as close as possible to the house battery as well.

Wiring of shunt will depend on which model/manufacturer you choose.
I went with Victonic and it is really simple. Now getting to it with all the
rings to fit its post was a serious pain.

Curious why you're mixing a Maxxair Fan and a Fantastic Fan? I can see
using two fans but why different manufacturers??

not knowing any better I went with 30 amp breaker past my 30 amp inlet.

Surely the pros will chime in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
...

Curious why you're mixing a Maxxair Fan and a Fantastic Fan? I can see
using two fans but why different manufacturers??
....
Thanks for the response medicineman.
I bought the Fantastic Fan first. When I decided to use two fans I discovered the Maxxair Fan. I have not installed either yet but have tested both with the new batteries and ready. I will put the Fantastic up front and the Maxxair with remote in the rear since I can drive with it open. I would probably have gotten two Maxxair but at least this way I can try them both.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
10,170 Posts
I rarely use the fan in my Maxxair but I use the remote to open or close it constantly. My three granddaughters like to use it also!
 

·
Registered
2014 136” HR
Joined
·
5,510 Posts
I got the remote because my neck and bifocals make it difficult to look straight up.

Do not assume the MaxxAire is 100% rainproof. A bit can get in if the wind blows just right. Not a problem unless maybe if it's over the bed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
I've been adding all the components to my cart on Amazon getting ready to do pretty much the same thing you are.

Where did you find the 155 Ah batteries, and which Inverter/Charger are you looking at?

Are you not planning for solar in the future?

Thanks
 

·
Premium Member
2014, 138WB, High Roof, Gas, SW MT
Joined
·
1,995 Posts
Hi,
If the monitor is trying to monitor the state of charge of the battery (like the Victron and TriMetric monitors do), then I would say the shunt is wired wrong. The shunt should capture all of the current coming into the negative post of the house battery. So, if you have 3 or 4 wires coming into the negative post of the house battery, these instead go to one of the terminals of the shunt, and the other terminal of the shunt gets connected to the house battery negative terminal. The wire from the shunt to the battery carries the sum of the current in all of the wires coming into the other side of the shunt -- it has to be a wire rated for this high current (not #10 ). And, the neutral line from the AC outlets would go back to the AC side of the inverter, not the negative terminal of the house battery -- that is, you want to keep your AC wiring separate from your DC wiring.
But, maybe the monitor panel is monitoring something else?

The usual fuse for #10 wire is 30 amps.

I'd say that the inverter DC side wiring should have its own breaker or fuse, and that it should be placed as close as possible to the battery.
The line from house battery to the van battery (via the isolator) should have two fuses/breakers -- one near the house battery and a 2nd near the van battery connection.

The wire going out to shore power should be 3 wires, a hot, a neutral, and a ground.
Be sure to read the manual on the inverters and follow it carefully -- especially as regards grounds. The inverter manual should also provide what size wires should be used between the battery and inverter, but the 2-0 looks about right if they are not too long.

This is somewhat a matter of personal preference, but I don't use chassis grounds to carry current from loads to battery or battery to battery. I always run a full size wire negative wire (same size as the positive wire). I do this to for all the DC loads like the fan, fridge, etc and for the connection from negative terminal of house to van battery. Its not that the chassis grounds can't carry the current, but my (and others) experience is that 1) you have to work carefully at getting a good chassis ground, and 2) that over time the chassis grounds tend to corrode and cause problems that are difficult to find. I've just found it easier and more reliable to run full size negative side wires.
I do have a single chassis ground from the house battery to van metal just to ground the system to the van frame.

If your two AC outlets are garden variety 120VAC outlets, they are probably only rated for 15 or 20 amps, so they don't match the 40 amp fuse. I guess if it were me, I'd run #12 wires to the two outlets and use a 20 amp breaker. A lot of people use an AC distribution panel for the AC side just as you have used the DC panel on the DC side, but with only two outlets, this is not really necesaary as long as you can find a suitable breaker and a place to mount it.

For sizing the wires, I like the Circuit Wizard calculator offered by BlueSea.com: http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/ It takes into account all the important factors and is easy to use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I've been adding all the components to my cart on Amazon getting ready to do pretty much the same thing you are.

Where did you find the 155 Ah batteries, and which Inverter/Charger are you looking at?

Are you not planning for solar in the future?

Thanks

Yes, solar in the future.


I went with Renogy 2000 watt pure sine inverter/35 amp 4 stage charger. I got it for 499 when at the where house and elsewhere it was 599, but now I don’t see it anywhere. I would guess that the AIMS and the GTPOWER are about the same. https://www.renogy.com/renogy-2000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger-back-order/


The batteries I got from Amazon


https://www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vm...4&sr=8-2&keywords=deep+cycle+batteries+155+ah
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
Thanks for the links.

I'm leaning toward the AIMS unit right now. I hadn't seen the Renolgy before, but it doesn't look available on their site.


Love your wiring diagram, I'm going to steal it :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
221 Posts
I'm leaning toward the AIMS unit right now.
I just bought a 2000W inverter through <invertersupply.com>. Their CNBOU pure sine inverters are on sale, with free shipping if over $250. I can't speak to the quality, but they are listed with other known brands, so I assume they are OK. Hopefully, it won't be backordered, or something.

Their website navigation is poor, so here is a more direct link:
http://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1304_583_584
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Is It It Yet? This Revision

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
OR This Revision 2?

 

·
Premium Member
2014, 138WB, High Roof, Gas, SW MT
Joined
·
1,995 Posts
Hi,
I did not see the 100 amp note on your shunt before. This is not a large enough shunt to handle all of the current in/out of your battery -- your inverter alone will pull more than 100 amps. So, if you are trying to monitor the full battery current or state of charge, I think you will need a larger shunt.
Do you have a link for the monitor you are planning to use?

It looks like you have a 2/0 awg chassis ground going directly to the battery negative terminal -- any current that flows in this ground will not be visible to you monitor. The monitor will only see the current coming from the #10 awg ground that is hooked to the shunt. The way things are hooked up, the monitor will not see most of the charging current from your van battery, as most of the van charging current will likely use your lower reisistance 2/0 ground path. The same would be true for you DC distribution panel as it is shown with a chassis ground.
I tink that one way to fix this would be to eliminate the 2/0 ground that goes directly to the battery terminal, and increase the size of the 10 awg ground shown on the shunt to something like 2/0 -- this way, all of the circuits that utilize the van chassis to complete the circuit will go through the shunt and be seen by the monitor -- but that shunt is going to have to be more that 100 amps for this to work.

The way the battery state of charge monitor works is that it has to see all of the current going into and out of the battery. It basically senses when you battery is a full charge, and then it keeps track of all the current going out to your loads and all the charging current coming in from the van charging system (and solar), and it uses that to estimate your state of charge. If you provide a return path that goes directly to the house battery negative terminal, then the monitor will not see this current, and it won't be able to do a correct state of charge.

Since this monitor panel seems to be causing most of the confusion, you might consider just leaving it out -- that will simplify the system, and you can always add it later -- just plan for space to install the shunt later.

The two fans look like they are hooked in series, but I think you are planning to hook them in parallel, which is what you want to do. Since the fans are probably on opposite ends of the van, it would probably be easier just to run a separate circuit for each with a separate fuse on your DC distribution panel.

The 10 awg wire and 30 amp fuse going to the DC distribution panel is OK as long as you don't expect the sum of all your eventual DC loads to go over 30 amps. So, if you plan to add larger DC loads later, you might bump up the wire, fuse and ground wire size for the house battery to DC panel.

Again, if it were me, I'd run full size negative side wires for he DC panel and for the path between van and house battery, but if you do a careful job with the chassis grounds to carry the negative side current, that will work.

This is important stuff to get right -- it might be worth finding a local electrician to check over the work -- cheaper than a van fire :)

Gary
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top