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I have to imagine this has been done, but can't seem to find it documented at all online. I'm in the situation where I want my Propex heater on the drivers side of the van, and my propane cooktop on the passenger side of the van. My question is, does anybody see any issues running a propane line up and over? I'd run it behind the paneling/tongue and groove on the walls and ceiling, and fix the line to the wood studs I'm attaching to the existing metal ribs. Is this a glaringly obvious design mistake? Or is this no big deal and done all the time?

And if it makes sense, I'm thinking I'd do this with the 1/4 copper line for the proper, rather than the line for a dometic cooktop. Make sense?

Below is an incredibly crude picture to provide some color to what I'm attempting to describe.

IMG_0816.jpeg
 

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I have to imagine this has been done, but can't seem to find it documented at all online. I'm in the situation where I want my Propex heater on the drivers side of the van, and my propane cooktop on the passenger side of the van. My question is, does anybody see any issues running a propane line up and over? I'd run it behind the paneling/tongue and groove on the walls and ceiling, and fix the line to the wood studs I'm attaching to the existing metal ribs. Is this a glaringly obvious design mistake? Or is this no big deal and done all the time?

And if it makes sense, I'm thinking I'd do this with the 1/4 copper line for the proper, rather than the line for a dometic cooktop. Make sense?

Below is an incredibly crude picture to provide some color to what I'm attempting to describe.

View attachment 62247
This is not my area of expertise, however here is what I think I know;

On RVs to achieve that it would be typically run underneath the chassis with as few “joints” leak points inside the fan. The idea is one joint inside to each appliance, & all other joints like Tees are underneath outside (the propane locker if properly done is considered “exterior” as it is vented to “atmosphere”.

3/8” copper IIRC

I have a Propex 2800 & the spec is 37MBar which is close to 15WC & North American is 11WC. Mine seems to be running fine, however I only have the heater running off my good quality 2 stage regulator.

The location you choose for your Propex is “busy” under the chassis (lots of Ram components). You might ge better off relocating the Propex to the passenger side?

Hiding a copper tube behind walls & ceiling where you could put a screw into it & it can not be inspected is not a good idea (it may not be “legal” either).
 

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The problem is that normal positioning of lines and even wires should be 1.5 inches from the face of the finish to prevent normal length screws from reaching any of them. In a house that is easy or continous metal guards must protect them. In a van there is not enough recess behind the finish to do that and protecting many feet of line is impractical. I’d do RV8R’s suggestion and go below the floor.
 

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I would not recommend running propane lines inside the vehicle, especially overhead. Propane is heavier than air and with the lines at the top, if they leak there is a lot of opportunity for both combustion and filling the vehicle with non-breathable gas.

Run them underneath the vehicle for your safety.
 

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I would not recommend running propane lines inside the vehicle, especially overhead. Propane is heavier than air and with the lines at the top, if they leak there is a lot of opportunity for both combustion and filling the vehicle with non-breathable gas.

Run them underneath the vehicle for your safety.
I think you mean "not recommend running high pressure propane lines inside the vehicle". There is nothing wrong with running low pressure propane (post 2 stage regulator) inside a van or other habitable space. I use flare fittings for joints and test all joints with soapy water.

I have the same placement of propex and kitchen on either side of the van. I ran copper (post dual stage regulator) under the van, used the existing holes in the rocker panels. It was a major PITA to get the copper where I wanted it to go and get tight bends. I think you will have a hard time getting a tight bend where the ceiling meets the walls. It was much less copper to go under the van vs. over the ceiling.

Another option would be to put a channel in the floor for the propane line. I did this for electrical cable. I just left a 1" channel in-between 2 pieces of polyiso with the factory floor on top of the polyiso.
 

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Other than the final connection to the appliance I would not run propane lines inside the vehicle. In my prior class b this was how it was done, and if I used propane I would still run the lines underneath and come up through the floor for the appliance connection. That is what I would do and that is what I intended to convey. I understand that others may find it ok to run low pressure lines in a vehicle, and I am fine with that, but I believe the best way is as I stated.

That said I didn't have to make that decision because I do not use any propane in my conversion, everything is gasoline (engine and webasto) or electric (everything else)
 

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Loud and clear, I'll run it under the van....glad I asked! I was gearing up to run it through the ceiling lol
Good Choice !!

What model Propex are you going to install?

If you have not read thru it, here is a good thread (it has comments from all the usual suspects ?);

 

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Support the line every 20" or so and the wall thickness of the copper line should be .032" . Don't use HD fridge type line .
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Propex HS2000, I got the kit from gowesty....linked below


I'd certainly like to keep all the propane stuff on one side of the van, but I've got a 136 so have to make some sacrifices with where stuff goes unfortunately. Would there be any issues with the line freezing under the van? I need to insulate it right?
 

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Freezing? I don’t think so, but ask Gowesty. What comes out of your propane tank is gas, not liquid & Im not sure how cold a climate you're planning, but I don’t think gas propane in the lines under is subject to freezing. Good question - Im just not 100% sure.

You bought the digital thermostat, that is the one I have & it works great. The old style is harder to get finite heat temp settings. There is a procedure to reset & you may need to do that once ready to perform your 1st start (Paper clip into a hole IIRC).

My Propex install & Propane locker;


A new regulation in Canada is “keep the regulator above the propane tank” height wise. Something to do with liquid propane slopping around & draining into the regulator (slim chance - but best to have the reg higher than the connection to your propane tank).

Good Luck with your install !!
 

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My Propane tank (GoWesty) and Propex Is all under the van 'cept for a 3/8 propane rated copper line thru floor (grommeted) up over the w/well to stove access . When it's freezing is when it's being used .
I wish I had a digital thermostat ;(
 

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I was on the fence about a propane locker or a GoWesty under mount tank. I’m still on the fence.

It really came down to being able to buy a 20lb tank @ Costco new for $ 30 CAN & filling it now from empty for about $7.50 CAN @ Costco. If I go to a gas station to fill they sometimes charge me $25 flat rate no matter how little they fill a 20 lb tank.

Do you fill like an automobile or do they hose you like they do me sometimes flat rate?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My Propane tank (GoWesty) and Propex Is all under the van 'cept for a 3/8 propane rated copper line thru floor (grommeted) up over the w/well to stove access . When it's freezing is when it's being used .
I wish I had a digital thermostat ;(
Nice! I think I’ll go with a propane locker inside the van, but running the copper line like you’re saying. It’s going to get used most in ski season, when temps are well below freezing. Did you insulate the line at all? Or is it just 3/8 copper?
 

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Hmm is using the HD copper tubing that bad after the regulator? First I'd heard of watching out for different copper tube thicknesses.
 

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Just keep your "crossunder" line behind Xmembers (road debris) and to be extra safe , cover the line with angle iron or SS angle when / if crossing the longitudinals , incase a jack or hoist pad lifts the van on the line .
And no "ice maker " line . Take time to read the NFPA codes and standards relating to RV's etc .
.022 wall is fine for ice makers , .032 is spec'd for propane . .032 would be better crossing under IMO .
 

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use flare fittings for joints
This.
Top of the list.
Use copper lines and flare fittings.
NOT compression fittings. Compression is for water and non hazardous only. They vibrate and leak.
Don't listen to anyone that says they used compression fittings "and never had any issues".
If you don't know how to flare or don't have a flaring tool, just buy or rent one, or ask a plumber to run the lines.
A plumber buddy might do it for a few beers.
 
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