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Discussion Starter #1
Is anybody happy with ProMaster AC during hot Summer weather?

Seen little either way on ProMaster AC, except for the voluminous discussion on installing insulation & adding Rooftop units.

Presume ProMaster AC is barely adequate in 90F+ high humidity? That is, disappointing in stop & go traffic - marginal even at cruise speed.

What are the most effective solutions for ProMaster owners in hot regions?

What does the optional Rear HVAC Prep Package provide?

What are odds of Ram coming out with a fully functional rear heat/AC for ProMaster?
 

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Bad assumption as I am happy with the AC and it has been very close to 100, full Sun and humid. My van is insulated so that may be part of it. It blows cold, lots of air movement and despite the huge window area it is fine. Once the van is stopped and shut off the heat jumps as the solar gain through all the glass is working. I open my two awning windows, open the Fantastic Vent and turn it on. It still will be hotter inside than outside but it is not too bad when I return.
For hot regions get white, reflective window tint, insulate, move North or go higher.
The other two questions I know nothing about but the last..... Slim and None I would guess.
 

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I am very happy with mine with temps often in the mid-90s in the mid-Atlantic and northeast. I do have, however, substantial insulation in my DIY camper. For camping privacy I have a curtain that closes across just behind the front seats. Closing this curtain permits very fast cool down in the front area. Usually I leave it open as total space cool down is reasonably fast.

When driving towards the sun heat gain is awesome through the windshield and absorbed by the dark surfaces. Unfortunately many vehicles these days use dark heat absorbing surfaces to reduce bothersome reflections during night driving. Has anyone tried laying a reflective material across the top of the dash board area?
 

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No complaints at all and it's been high 90°s and very humid the past two weeks. In fact I've had to turn it down from high after an hour or so or it freezes me out. It doesn't cool past the front seats much, however. I do keep my rear side awning window open always but I close the maxxair fan which is right behind the front seats when I have the air on.
 

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We have had 90+ degree temps with high humidity for the past 6+ weeks. Air works great, rarely do I set the fan speed past the second notch.
 

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I agree with RD. Down here in SE we have armpit weather. We don't get "Dry Heat". ;-) High 90's and really humid. Dewpoint up in the 70's. My PM's AC works very well. In town and on the hiway. I'm very pleased with it!

ETA: rarely use it above the 2nd notch of fan after its cooled down. No insulation in the van yet, but that'll come soon. Bought that this morning!
 
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Insulating is the key.



 
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Jumper,
As an HVAC tech, I would suggest that your system may not be working correctly and or has a low charge. Quick way to tell is run it full tilt on a hot muggy day and see if you getting lots of water out of the evap drain. I believe it's on the passenger side of the van. No or little water would indicate a possible low charge. I find my will run out almost in a stream when I am parked and idle with the AC on.

As to your last question, it's no a mopar system, but I found a link to an aftermarket tie in with the factory system. www.cicionisprinter.com

Dale
 

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It depends on whether you're asking about keeping the cab area cool or the whole van? Having cool/cold air blowing on you or around you can make the actual air temp feel much, much cooler.

This last June I took a road trip that sent me through the Southwest in 100+F temps.

While I was driving, I was plenty cool. Usually had it set to 'defrost' just to have the air gently come off the windshield instead of hitting me directly, and with the fan speed at middle or up one. I was plenty cool. Note that in 'defrost' position it will default to pull in outside air even if you have 'recirc' selected.

However, the back of the van was not so cool. At one point I had to wait for four hours (I was officiating a bike race) in SE Utah in the middle of the day. I left the van idling with the a/c on dash vent setting (which defaults its to recirc, not fresh air) and the fan on high. I also had my 3500 BTU 12 volt a/c unit running in the back. With a (mostly) insulated silver van it still reached the mid-upper 90s inside. It was not cool, relatively. I could step outside and wander around a bit, then the 97F inside felt great compared to the 107F outside.
 

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July, Phoenix. I did OK

I was in Phoenix for 4th of July. I had no problems keeping cool with the chassis AC. I did find that the cool tended to stay up at the front, and not really flow back to the back unless I turned on the fan for the AC in back (I have a conversion van). But, if I ran the fan in the back to stir the air, then the front AC was enough to keep the whole van cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry, as a long time Ford Club Wagon owner, Florida resident & one time specialty refrigerator/freezer builder, I should have qualified my 'ProMaster AC Evaluation'.

Have had 3 Club Wagons with high capacity, dual, front & rear AC. This option includes a bigger compressor, more refrigerant, separate rear evaporator, blower & vents - Designed to cool a passenger van.

It may be another "Bad assumption" but my guess is that the E-Series system is hard to beat & may be difficult to equal.
 

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Sorry, as a long time Ford Club Wagon owner, Florida resident & one time specialty refrigerator/freezer builder, I should have qualified my 'ProMaster AC Evaluation'.

Jumper....sorry for the HVAC 101 lesson!:eek:
 

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I have had a ceramic tint put on all windows, including the windshield, made for RVs to reduce heat transfer 60%. I also hang heavy black curtains from the overhead shelf down to the floor. Even with all of this my AC always ran on high when I first bought my van but it seems to be working better now because I can turn it down a notch or 2 after 30-45 minutes. I suspect it was always pulling in a little fresh air and not recirculating like it should. When it was new my wife and I joked it was like sitting in an easy bake oven.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thought it was be clear I don't own a ProMaster to evaluate the AC myself. Have only test driven them under relatively mild conditions where AC wasn't even needed.


Sorry, as a long time Ford Club Wagon owner, Florida resident & one time specialty refrigerator/freezer builder, I should have qualified my 'ProMaster AC Evaluation'.

Jumper....sorry for the HVAC 101 lesson!:eek:
Have always kept thermometers stuck in my dash vents & am particularly aware of AC performance. IMO if the air temp at vent doesn't quickly drop below 40F within a mile or 2 - There's something wrong. Have kept auto AC working to this standard on a variety of vehicles since early 80's without ever going to HVAC tech.

Would enjoy your thoughts on ProMaster AC capacity, particularly if you have knowledge of how it compares to E-Series dual system.

Wish they published BTU ratings like household AC units.
 
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