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Discussion Starter #41
Sorry for the slow reply. I do not have a photo of the interior installation. We supply the vent with the interior bezel/closure pictured below. The knob shown is what opens the louvers. These have an electric solenoid so can be opened that way too. We supply a PVC ring (plenum) that the interior bezel is screwed into. Those are available in 1/2 and 3/4" thickness and can be stacked to make up the distance between the inside of the roof and the ceiling panel. The rings are bonded to the inside of the roof with 3M Windoweld (same as the outside adapter which accomodates the roof corrugations) and then the screws holding the vent go through everything and into the interior ring. The vents do come with an on/of reversing switch. We've always used the speed control with reverse that I posted previously.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan


 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
We have been very busy at DIYvan this summer. Hired Micah as engineer to help with design and our daughter Kaela (recent BSN magma-cum-lauda graduate) is helping get product shipped while doing some graphic design and applying our logo to the back windows of our vans. As nurse, she recommended that we get a defibrillator for our industrial park and will review our warehouse health and safety preparedness.

I was able to get the floor designed and CNC'd for our 136. Then promptly sold it to a customer. Easy enough for Sean, our CNC operator, to cut another one now.




Here is the underside when I epoxied the 3 pieces together. I epoxied a layer of 4oz fiberglass tape on the bottom to reinforce the lap joints


Also received the stainless steel version of our Promaster roof attachment clips so was able to install the solar array towards the front of the van. Vent or skylight will go at the back. First photo is of Micah assembling the array upside down on the floor. Much easier than working on top of the van.


Then we carefully lift the whole thing up with the fork truck.


Line it up with our pads and clips and bolt it down.


Below is a link to a pdf file for the layout showing the mounting system components. This is probably the most efficient way to get over 300 watts on the roof of any size Promaster van. Works great when the vent is at the rear.

https://www.impact3d.com/Promaster136_2xRNG160_front.pdf

We have also been working on a kit to mount 8020 rails down the length of the van. We have local customer who will get these installed on his 159. The rails will be 132" long 1502-LS 8020. We special ordered them from the Fastenal store next door to our warehouse. Once the rails are on, he is installing a platform and 1 Grape Solar 180 watt platform across the rails. He has already installed a vent and Dometic Midi Heki skylight using our adapters. Photo of his van below.


Below is a photo of the rail mount. We are using off the shelf 8020 P/N 4281 brackets to attach the rails to our pad/clip mounts.


We look forward and would be honored to help with your Promaster projects. Please reach out if you need anything.
All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
 

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We have also been working on a kit to mount 8020 rails down the length of the van. We have local customer who will get these installed on his 159. The rails will be 132" long 1502-LS 8020. We special ordered them from the Fastenal store next door to our warehouse. Once the rails are on, he is installing a platform and 1 Grape Solar 180 watt platform across the rails. He has already installed a vent and Dometic Midi Heki skylight using our adapters. Photo of his van below.


Below is a photo of the rail mount. We are using off the shelf 8020 P/N 4281 brackets to attach the rails to our pad/clip mounts.

This is similar to what I'm planning, for two 175w solar panels, positioned next to each other across the middle of the roof (so, long side of each panel going across), between my front & rear Maxxair fans. Do you know the exact distance between the two 8020 rails mounted along each side of the roof? Trying to figure out if my panels will fit between the long rails, or if I have to install them on top of the rails. My panels are 58.4" long. Thanks in advance!
 

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This is similar to what I'm planning, for two 175w solar panels, positioned next to each other across the middle of the roof (so, long side of each panel going across), between my front & rear Maxxair fans. Do you know the exact distance between the two 8020 rails mounted along each side of the roof? Trying to figure out if my panels will fit between the long rails, or if I have to install them on top of the rails. My panels are 58.4" long. Thanks in advance!
Looks like you’ve got .5” of adjustment on each side with the slots in the 4281 bracket. If all of that is available (and Hein’s pads are centered on the roof pins), then you have:


(roof pin separation[1]) - (1515 width) * 2/2 - (4281 width) * 2

740 mm * 2 - 1.5” - .25*2 = 58.267 - 2 = 56.267”
And that can be varied by 1/2” narrower or wider with the slots.

Nice job with the floor Hein - much simpler to CNC than your Transit floor, at least for non-experts like me... I do like the bow ties in your transit floor though - any idea which is more robust?


1: https://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37313
 

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Discussion Starter #45
This is similar to what I'm planning, for two 175w solar panels, positioned next to each other across the middle of the roof (so, long side of each panel going across), between my front & rear Maxxair fans. Do you know the exact distance between the two 8020 rails mounted along each side of the roof? Trying to figure out if my panels will fit between the long rails, or if I have to install them on top of the rails. My panels are 58.4" long. Thanks in advance!
The distance between the insides of the rails is 57.1875" and there is not any room in the slots to adjust that wider. The angles could be reversed and then rails placed on the outside. That should add ~3 1/2" to the width and allow the panels to fit between. Only down side is that it puts some extra torsion on the mounts. That should not be a problem with solar panels. The best way to support the panels would be with angles attached to the inside of the rails. I can mock that up on our van and verify the dimensions and show how the angles would work.

Nice job with the floor Hein - much simpler to CNC than your Transit floor, at least for non-experts like me... I do like the bow ties in your transit floor though - any idea which is more robust?
Thank you for the compliment. I will be adding the bowtie system to our Promaster floor. They really help hold the pieces together while bonding with the epoxy. The goal on the Transit was to be as efficient as possible with nesting in 4x8 sheet size. But it creates larger pieces which are expensive to ship. We have more waste with the transverse seams but the left overs can be used for other components. We will revise the Transit floor to have transverse seams.

All the best,
Hein
DIYvan
541 490 5098
 

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The distance between the insides of the rails is 57.1875" and there is not any room in the slots to adjust that wider. The angles could be reversed and then rails placed on the outside. That should add ~3 1/2" to the width and allow the panels to fit between. Only down side is that it puts some extra torsion on the mounts. That should not be a problem with solar panels. The best way to support the panels would be with angles attached to the inside of the rails. I can mock that up on our van and verify the dimensions and show how the angles would work.
That would be pretty fantastic if you could mock it up and send some pics/details! Thank you!

Also, if we were to add 2-3 horizontal pieces of 8020 (in front of and behind the 2 solar panels, and maybe a 3rd in between), do you think it would be adequate to use 10-series, instead of 15-series?
 
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