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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought there was a "What did you do to your Promaster today" thread but here is the interior Bed/rear cabinet beginnings.
Thank you to "www.ourkaravan.com" for all the fantastic information.
Electrical on the passenger side, plumbing on the driver side.
Center portion (49.5"L) of the 50" wide bed will lift (TBD, Air struts?).
60" Galley overlapping PS door. Top opening refrigerator to the back and Micro to the front
26" Sink cabinet DS and 48" shower/toilet stall, over DS door.
Overheads will extend over sink on the DS and to the end of the galley on the PS (109")
Waiting on Plusnuts to start the overheads.
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Nice start!
Run 5 14AWG wires side to side through the roof, and 5 front to back (5 more than you anticipate.using).
If the wires are unused, great, if you think of accesories you want later (backup cam, lights, outlets) you'l have them when you need them
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice - I'm in the middle of rewiring a 140 y/o townhouse so I have a lot of 14/2 and 12/2 (necessary in a house for the kitchen and bedrooms).
My build is split with electrical on the PS and water on the DS so the only electrical I need on the DS is the back corner for the heater, water heater and water pump.
That heavy cable you can see is my 30A shore power which will come in the DS below the taillight.
My interior panels will fit in behind the 8020 and be held in place with 3M Dual Lock - easily removable.
I have 2 sliding doors (best thing ever) so access behind the shower/ toilet will be always available.
The one thing I really need suggestions on, is how to support the back edge of the bed frame where the right and left edges meet in the opening section. The only thing I can come up with (that doesn't interfere with anything else) is a removable cross bar. It would have been nice to open 1 direction but there is not enough height.
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looks good.

if you're using 45 series consider using 3/8" bamboo click lock flooring in the groove. it fits perfectly. I got mine from lumber liquidators ($2ish sq. ft). Its much easier than making bamboo "panels" if you're willing to deal with the 8020 visible on the corners.

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I've already ordered 1/4" Bamboo plywood (grooves) and 1/2" (surfaces) for the 15 series. Very hard to get here (in Canada).
All my 8020 has smooth visible surfaces (1503, except for the giant 1545 main beams and cross bar) so its not an issue.
I've even used (1517, first time I've seen in a build) the radius'd 15 series wherever there is a corner.
 

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The one thing I really need suggestions on, is how to support the back edge of the bed frame where the right and left edges meet in the opening section. The only thing I can come up with (that doesn't interfere with anything else) is a removable cross bar. It would have been nice to open 1 direction but there is not enough height.
I don’t know how much stress this would put on the material, but could you fabricate two sleeves (essentially a three-sided tube) that slid over the front and rear cross pieces?

I like the idea of your bamboo and 80/29. I will be interested you see how you make your cabinets. I’ve toyed with the idea of 80/20 cabinets but I’m not sure whether I ultimately want the industrial/modern look.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I only had a couple of hours to try this out, but this is more or less my interior.
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