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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
just posting as I have downgraded membership from a paid member to a free member. Actually its probably an upgrade as I will use a picture hosting site instead of attachments.

On that subject what are your opinions on the most user friendly picture hosting site to use on the forum? I have used Google so far.

I'll start buy burning some bites on attachment pictures that I have been meaning to post for awhile now. I call it Promaster meets the Man. This six wheel drive supper RV showed up in my hood this spring. The owner gave me the full tour after he caught me up on a step ladder peeping in the windows;)

Cheers,

Dave
 

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Cool truck man. I wish promasters had that step in the front bumper...hmmm maybe ill put one there
 

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TRIED TO PRIVATE MESSAGE THIS TO YOU, BUT MY NEARLY 4,000 CHARACTERS EXCEEDED THE SYSTEM'S 1K PM LIMIT

Dave,

Finally ran first tests on the Nations 2nd alternator. A couple of comments.

We decided NOT to interconnect the Nations Alternator/Balmar regular to the Promaster electrical system. Power to the Balmar, including the so-called siwtched ignition brown wire is all tied back to the lithium system. We saw no advantage in powering the Balmar off of Promaster power, indeed, we may have solved the 'sudden shutdown of lithium' problem by doing this. Should the lithium controller unexpectedly open the solenoids, not only is the the main output terminal of the alternator disconnected from the lithium, but also the 12 volts to power the Balmar (pin 2) and the so-called ignition switched line (pin 9). Does this guaranty that the suddenly collapsing alternator stator field (current) won't generate a destructive transient, not sure. But we feel lots better knowing that absolutely all power to the alternator and regulator will be immediately terminated.

By reason of bypassing the Promaster electrical system, we have no ignition switch. We could, of course, have wired an ignition driven relay/switch, but frankly decided we didn't want the ignition switched function anyway. What's the advantage? (We do have a manual switch.) There seems to be no problem powering the Balmar with the engine off and, in fact, this is a convenient way to program the Balmar.

Speaking of programming, so far all we've done is select the Halogen profile as most closely representing what we want. We will eventually set the various voltage levels and times.

We ran the van at idle for the better part of an hour last night both with the lithium batteries otherwise unloaded and under a substantial inverter load when we connected a 1600 electric heater. First observation, the Balmar never switched from Bulk mode. Our batteries were reasonably (90%) charged beforehand and Balmar readings of actual and target battery voltage of 14.0 volts were seen. So a slight mystery why it stayed in Bulk.

The non-loaded charge rate varied dramatically running initially over 100 amps to less than 20 . . . although, as noted, the Balmar remained in Bulk mode. Obviously the charge current is directly proportional to the difference between alternator output and actual battery voltage and as that gap narrows, charge drops.

Incidentally, we broke the sense wire connection from the alternator (the 12v pin 2 and sense wire connections are tied together in the wiring harness just an inch or so 'toward the alternator' from the two fuse breakouts. We actually removed the 1 amp fuse and placed it at the interconnection where we connected the sense wire to the batteries.

In this regard, our system is wired: batteries thru 3-4 feet of 0/2 cable to the Magnum MMP switch panel (which switches and breakers most everything in our system except the Nations Alternator), then another 2 feet where we managed to sandwich a 250 amp DC breaker in the alternator line. It is at this breaker, on the alternator side, that our sense wire is connected. Thus, if either the lithium controller (it's solenoids and electronics are placed inside the Magnum MMP panel) or the 250 amp breaker from the alternator should open, the sense wire, also, is open and loses its 12 volt connection. We didn't want to place this sense wire directly on the batteries as, if we had done so, 12 volts would have remained on this wire even after a system shut-down. Placement on the breaker gets us most of what we want as, from the breaker, there is the fairly long 0/2 run (probably 20', to the alternator itself - - so the sense wire is placed electrically much closer to the batteries.

One last matter. With the the 1600 watt electric heater load (Magnum inverter drawing 135 amps), and with the Promaster stationary at idle, we noticed the alternator temperature reached 94 degrees C. Not knowing the temperature limits of the alternator, we shut it down at that point. Do you have any experience with temperatures?

Winston
 

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I have been happy with tinypic.com, join, sign in, upload, then paste link here. Caveman stuff.
We saw a bunch of MAN trucks in Spain, I was told it is a VW company?
 
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