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Discussion Starter #1
So Chrysler specs Pennzoil full synthetic 0-20 but every mechanic I've with says Pennzoil is the worst - use anything but. Any recommendations ?
 

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well dang.. My 2014 gasser says 5W-20 on the oil fill cap..
And I use Penzoil full synthetic too.
Crossing my fingers
 

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There have many opinions about oil to use not to use etc.. Here is a fact: you can use the cheapest API approved motor oil and you will never never have an oil related failure/brake down period! Buy what's on sale dump it in and haul ass!
 

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BTW the diesel is a bit more complicated by the requirement for a euro spec diesel oil low ash etc. The manual says:

"Only use ACEA C3 SAE 5W-30 Synthetic Low Ash engine oil meeting Chrysler material standard MS-11106 or Pennzoil Ultra Euro L full synthetic 5W-30 motor oil, which is recommended for all operating temperatures."

So until someone else specs this oil its Pennzoil. What are others using?
 

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I work in the motorcycle industry, and its stunning how some people will fight to the death over how oil A is better than oil B. I've seen guys swear that changing the oil every 1500 miles for Mobil 1 synthetic is the only way to make your motor last. These same people usually have 5,000 miles on a 7 year old motorcycle. I've got 94,000 on one of my BMW's and I've used whatever oil I had in stock that meets the standard and was the right viscosity, and changed it about every 6,000 miles which is the recommend interval.

Buy any oil that meets the standard, and change it at the proper interval. When you drain out the old oil, send a sample off to Blackstone Labs and see what shape it was in. You'll get a feel for the life of the oil you are using with your driving habits.
 

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It is 5W-20, not 0W-20 and you need to find a new mechanic!
 

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The ProMaster vans take 5w-20 (I only looked at the gas engine specs), the ProMaster City Vans take 0W-20. Your mechanic may be looking up the wrong vehicle. If it's a dealer mechanic you should speak to the service manager and let him know.

If you've got a smart phone or carry tablet or notebook download your manual in PDF form from here and keep it handy.

Edit: Valvoline SynPower oil certifies for the Chrysler standards. See this page.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
whoops - the spec for our 159 PM gas is 5-20 and that's what we used last - thks @jimmbomb, et al for correcting this. We'll do a quick search re newer Pennzoil synthetics vs the older wax-based stuff we've been warned against. If the newer stuff is much better, then sounds like Pennzoil mktg folks need to do some work and get word out.

is there a list of other approved oils ? (ie MB has BEVO list).

@rdnhand - yes diesels are much different. On Sprinters we used Mobil 1 ESP formula m-50 (low ash) but had heard Mobil was changing labeling. Wrong oil in diesels can lead to clogged DPF and $000's in repairs.
 

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For me, this is a no brainer. The engine comes with Pennzoil Platinum 5-20 full synthetic from the factory. If you get an oil change at a dealer, that's what they use. Walmart has it for $10 cheaper than the parts store chains - it's $26 for a 5qt jug, and you need 5.5 qts.

Technically, whatever meets the Chrysler MS spec is okay to use, but I have heard that it's important to stick with one brand of oil for the life of the vehicle if possible. As a lubricant, oil is pretty much oil, but each brand has different additive packages and I have heard that some are not compatible with others. I have heard that some have more or less or different seal conditioners, such that you switch oil brands and suddenly you are chasing oil leaks. I can't confirm this, but I'm at 123k in 13 months and I haven't had any problems whatsoever, nor am I burning a single drop of oil.

Even dimestore off brand oil is going to cost $5/qt. There's a Walmart on every corner and they are open 24 hours. I just don't see the logic in using anything else but what it came with.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
sound logic. How often are you changing ? Spec says 10k but we are doing it at 7500 (just feel better about a faster interval).
 

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For me, this is a no brainer. The engine comes with Pennzoil Platinum 5-20 full synthetic from the factory. If you get an oil change at a dealer, that's what they use. Walmart has it for $10 cheaper than the parts store chains - it's $26 for a 5qt jug, and you need 5.5 qts.

Technically, whatever meets the Chrysler MS spec is okay to use, but I have heard that it's important to stick with one brand of oil for the life of the vehicle if possible. As a lubricant, oil is pretty much oil, but each brand has different additive packages and I have heard that some are not compatible with others. I have heard that some have more or less or different seal conditioners, such that you switch oil brands and suddenly you are chasing oil leaks. I can't confirm this, but I'm at 123k in 13 months and I haven't had any problems whatsoever, nor am I burning a single drop of oil.

Even dimestore off brand oil is going to cost $5/qt. There's a Walmart on every corner and they are open 24 hours. I just don't see the logic in using anything else but what it came with.
I've heard the same thing from multiple people regarding sticking with one brand of oil. Well, I proved it to be false. I have used 4 brands of oil in my Sprinter interchangeably depending on what was cheapest at the time I bought it. Here they are: Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo and (gasp!!!!) Supertech (all of them dino oils, not synthetic, that carry the spec recommended by Mercedes.) Happy to say that after 729,000 miles nothing of the kind mentioned above affected my engine. To make it even worse, sometimes I even mix half a gallon of another brand at an oil change. Let me explain. An oil change takes 2.5 gals of oil, so I buy 3 gallons of whatever is cheapest, and I save the remaining half gallon for the next oil change. Next oil change I only buy 2 gallons of whatever oil happens to be cheapest then, and use the remaining half a gallon from last change. My engine doesn't know the difference. Runs as good on Mobil as on Supertech.
 

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The tale I was told years ago.

Switching brands is ok if you've always been a switcher.

Where it goes bad, is always using the same brand, for say 200,000, then switching. It opens the possibility for a different brand to dislodge sludge and deposits the original oil created. Different additives and detergents are the culprit.
 

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Theres another wrinkle to keep in mind; the pentastar is substantially different than the cast iron lump we dealt with in the past. The oil controlls the camshafts. In order to do that the oil itself has to be very consistant. This is why the engine has that oil cooler. It isnt really a cooler at all; it uses coolant heat to warm the oil and keep it at a very consistant temp so it can be a consistant viscosity. In theory, any oil of yhe right weight should be ok, but i think in practice its gotta be better to pick one brand and stay with it.

To be honest, i dont know how diffrrent being an aluminum block is from a cast iron block, other than aluminum corrodes more. I assume a big chunk of the materials spec on oil has to do with corrosion and erosion. So far as i know, that wasnt an issue on an iron block.

My point? Unlike a slant six or small block chevy, i think you are probably asking for trouble if you arent meticulous about oil and oil changes.
 

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R1200GSA, F650GS Dakar, R80g/s and R100GS here... Never had an oil related issue.
Oh you are listing them all? R1100R, F650GS, R80RT, R60, K75, Honda CT90 and XR250R, never had an oil problem on any either. (Don't make me list my cars!, or small engines!)
 
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