Let me drill you, baby.
Not an EZ out, but an actually left hand twist drill bit, as you drill it might bite into the bolt an loosen it, just an idea for those of us who don't own an air compressor or air toolsAn EZ out? Sure, you can try that. If there’s anything left of the torx female that might get it.
I think we're talking about the same thing. It's a set of sockets with this reverse sort of pattern inside such that as you torque it, it bites harder into the bolt head. Irwin makes them. My recollection is those wont work because the bolt well is too narrow for the socket.Not an EZ out, but an actually left hand twist drill bit, as you drill it might bite into the bolt an loosen it, just an idea for those of us who don't own an air compressor or air tools
If the body of the bolt was not rusted and seized in the manifold you might have a chance of using an ez out if you pull the engine first. It's in a really inaccessible location. Trying to remove a broken ez out would be next to impossible. Tightening torque may not matter to a corroded bolt that was installed 5-6 years ago and has seen a few hundred heat cycles in a hostile enviroment.Is it possible a left hand drill bit might work? since the torque spec is low?
I'm considering doing this as a preventive measure by removing the screws one at a time and slathering them with anti seize. Does anyone know the torque spec? Those look more like screws than bolts.I did this. I removed the bolts and coated them with copper anitseize then I filled the recess with grease.
I'm getting ahead of myself, but upcoming is a video on preventing this from happening in the first place - stopping the water from coming in. It comes through the cowl as it seals to the windshield, and it causes three problems that result in repairs. One is these manifold bolts, two is #2 and #4 plug tubes, and three is a rotted intake air hose. I'm working on something simple and cheap that will solve all three of these in One Swell Foop!Fun video. Thanks for sharing.
Next video idea:
Adding an engine cover to a ProMaster.
1) Going to the junkyard to recover the part.
1a) List of compatible years and vehicle models that would likely have a cover.
1b) For people who don't want to get their hands dirty, a Mopar link and part number to a cover that could be purchased online.
2) How to remove the cover.
2a) What tools I need to take to the junkyard to get the cover off.
3) How to modify the cover (I thought there was something you had to cut or trim.)
4) How to install the cover.
4a) Do I need some new bolts?
4b) Are the holes already there on the ProMaster engine? Or maybe they snap on somehow?
5) Sealing the cover after the new cover is installed. Should there be some kind of sealing someplace to keep the water out?
First order of business; if we ever do a company t-shirt I GUARANTEE you it will be gaudy and tacky!! Second, I'm actually working on something even BETTER than a t-shirt. Details will be forthcoming. And it'll be FREE!