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MMXVI - L2H2 in Indiana
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An EZ out? Sure, you can try that. If there’s anything left of the torx female that might get it.
Not an EZ out, but an actually left hand twist drill bit, as you drill it might bite into the bolt an loosen it, just an idea for those of us who don't own an air compressor or air tools :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Not an EZ out, but an actually left hand twist drill bit, as you drill it might bite into the bolt an loosen it, just an idea for those of us who don't own an air compressor or air tools :)
I think we're talking about the same thing. It's a set of sockets with this reverse sort of pattern inside such that as you torque it, it bites harder into the bolt head. Irwin makes them. My recollection is those wont work because the bolt well is too narrow for the socket.

Most places, including Harbor Freight, sell a little right angle screwdriver or socket adapter such that you might be able to rig the die grinder bit to a 3/8 socket of some kind and drive it with a cordless. Lots of different ways to do it. And in fact, you may be able to get a drill in there depending on what your drill looks like. You could also gently jack up the rear of the engine tipping the engine forward a bit and it might clear the hood. Lot's of options - they all suck.
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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Is it possible a left hand drill bit might work? since the torque spec is low?
If the body of the bolt was not rusted and seized in the manifold you might have a chance of using an ez out if you pull the engine first. It's in a really inaccessible location. Trying to remove a broken ez out would be next to impossible. Tightening torque may not matter to a corroded bolt that was installed 5-6 years ago and has seen a few hundred heat cycles in a hostile enviroment.

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I did this (pic below). I removed the bolts and coated them with copper anitseize then I filled the recess with grease.
Brown Insect Wood Arthropod Pest
 

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2021 3500 extended in Michigan
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I did this. I removed the bolts and coated them with copper anitseize then I filled the recess with grease.
I'm considering doing this as a preventive measure by removing the screws one at a time and slathering them with anti seize. Does anyone know the torque spec? Those look more like screws than bolts.
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in Indiana
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I'm considering doing this as a preventive measure by removing the screws one at a time and slathering them with anti seize. Does anyone know the torque spec? Those look more like screws than bolts.
Search this - torque setting thread
 

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2019 159 EXT HR (3500) in WA
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Fun video. Thanks for sharing.

Next video idea:

Adding an engine cover to a ProMaster.

1) Going to the junkyard to recover the part.
1a) List of compatible years and vehicle models that would likely have a cover.
1b) For people who don't want to get their hands dirty, a Mopar link and part number to a cover that could be purchased online.
2) How to remove the cover.
2a) What tools I need to take to the junkyard to get the cover off.
3) How to modify the cover (I thought there was something you had to cut or trim.)
4) How to install the cover.
4a) Do I need some new bolts?
4b) Are the holes already there on the ProMaster engine? Or maybe they snap on somehow?
5) Sealing the cover after the new cover is installed. Should there be some kind of sealing someplace to keep the water out?

Peace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm considering doing this as a preventive measure by removing the screws one at a time and slathering them with anti seize. Does anyone know the torque spec? Those look more like screws than bolts.
It's cast into the manifold in plastic. In Nm no less.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm considering doing this as a preventive measure by removing the screws one at a time and slathering them with anti seize. Does anyone know the torque spec? Those look more like screws than bolts.
this is an EXCELLENT idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Fun video. Thanks for sharing.

Next video idea:

Adding an engine cover to a ProMaster.

1) Going to the junkyard to recover the part.
1a) List of compatible years and vehicle models that would likely have a cover.
1b) For people who don't want to get their hands dirty, a Mopar link and part number to a cover that could be purchased online.
2) How to remove the cover.
2a) What tools I need to take to the junkyard to get the cover off.
3) How to modify the cover (I thought there was something you had to cut or trim.)
4) How to install the cover.
4a) Do I need some new bolts?
4b) Are the holes already there on the ProMaster engine? Or maybe they snap on somehow?
5) Sealing the cover after the new cover is installed. Should there be some kind of sealing someplace to keep the water out?

Peace.
I'm getting ahead of myself, but upcoming is a video on preventing this from happening in the first place - stopping the water from coming in. It comes through the cowl as it seals to the windshield, and it causes three problems that result in repairs. One is these manifold bolts, two is #2 and #4 plug tubes, and three is a rotted intake air hose. I'm working on something simple and cheap that will solve all three of these in One Swell Foop!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
@Kip-on-truckin

I like your logo and would like to support you and your artist who made it. Can you sell us stickers/decals for inside the glass and/or T-shirts (not gaudy tacky ones) but nice ones with a logo on the chest. :)
View attachment 89745
First order of business; if we ever do a company t-shirt I GUARANTEE you it will be gaudy and tacky!! Second, I'm actually working on something even BETTER than a t-shirt. Details will be forthcoming. And it'll be FREE!
 
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