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Check engine codes can be read until they are cleared out. The dealer can certainly read them!
 

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I am done with my promaster....tranny is out again....not paying 6700$ comsidering that i have already spent 8000$$$$$ on the same problem.......great truck overall ...but tranny is no bueno

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I might be able to help. Give us all the details. But there is a simple fix that might get it, if I know the symptoms. Worst case is a used trans is $1500 and maybe 5hrs to put it in. Best case is it’s a $200 fix. Details, man.
 

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Keeps poppimg out of sixth.....have replaced transmission, tcm , shift position sensor and still continues to do the exact same problem.....broke down in ft worth on the way back from nv....now the computer locks it out and puts in neutral....dealer says internal fault of tranny...the damm thing has 40,000 miles....its becoming too much....and thats not including the extreme use maintenece cycly i keep it on....nothing is cheap on this truck but i use it in part with my business ...and to top it all off the tranny in my chevy went to crap too...but that one i know i can get another 200,000 miles out of if when i replace the tranny ...had to put my 05 sprinter back in road and im in the middle of restoring that too....already have all the suspension , brakes , etc .....im frustraded...thanks for listening

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Ok. Couple of bits of info here. There is no tcm (transmission control module) in the promaster, it’s all handled by the main engine computer. There is a solenoid pack/valve body though. The solenoids are electrical and mechanically shift the gears. This entire assembly is the brain amd guts of the trans. It’s around $150 and can be installed in a couple hours. Before I threw in the towel, I’d try that first. Ask me for more details.

But, I dont think that’s your problem. It shifts 1-6, so the trans works at the basic level. Something is TELLING it to drop out of 6th. I’d be looking/testing ABS sensors (wheel speed sensors, built into the brakes). The trans also has an input and output speed sensor. This tells the computer if the trans is slipping, so it can do things like put it into limp mode, or drop it out of 6th. I’d also be looking at the trans temp sensor. This tells the computer if the trans is overheating, the result being limp or gear drop. Engine overheat might also have the comp protect the trans.

If it will only shift into reverse or 2nd, this is limp mode. The gear indicator on the dash and lights on the shifter will be different too. Whatever is causing it to drop 6th is eventually putting it in limp.

Low voltage will cause limp. Low voltage only at the solenoid pack might do it too.

You need an honest mechanic, NOT a tranny shop. Tranny shops sell transmissions.
 
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The truck is at the dealer.....not a tranny shop....amd unfortunarly it is all a flow chart....no actual mechanic...


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Is the Fiat Ducato Comfort-matic and the MT 40 the same transmission? Ram calls it a TCM and Fiat calls it TCU.
 

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First, most simple fixes have been bad ground, electrical connection or fuse. Replacing the part works if the part was bad, sometimes it works by fixing the electrical connection when the part is installed. But here's somthing to look at and did not see it on your receipt.
There are two proportional pressure control valves in the valve body portion of the control unit. One of these valves direct hydraulic fluid pressure for the even gear engagement (R-2-4-6), the other directs fluid pressure for odd gear (1-3-5) engagement . These valves direct fluid pressure as desired by the transmission control module.
The proportional flow control valves and proportional pressure valves are similar in appearance, but differ in operation, do not interchange these valves.
As are friend Nispo found out you may have better luck at a import car repair shop.
 

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I have (like most plp ) escaltated this to fca ......i also belive the problem is in the control unit....and or as my son said the harness.....( he wants a crack at it) ....i will ofmcourse lok to speak to a star tech to see if he agrees with what I and you believe...that its not mechanical but either programming , hydraulic or electrical...

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Hello all, I'm new to the Pro master community, and hoping to get some help as to what I should do. I have a 2017 PM Cargo Van 1500. Only about 8k miles on it. Aside from issues like a cracked radiator, faulty slider door, broken dash display etc., I've had the van back at the dealer 4 times now for lurching problems while it downshifts when approaching a stop, shifting very hard in between gears, and an insulting 4.8 mpg in the city while EMPTY. I just received a phone call from the dealer that all of this is normal, even though the dealer told me there are fluid pump recalls etc. I am literally being told to there is nothing wrong with the van, even though upon switching from R to N or N to D it clunks into gear hard enough to rattle the whole van. One time they said it was because the transmission was really low on fluid, straight from factory. The time after that they said it was Computer update needed. Now, Chrsyler said it's normal. Please advise?
Same problem . 2017 PM cargo 1500 . Transmission out at 34000 miles . great warranty fixed. At 56,000 stuck in low gear will go into revers. Loud bang when put into drive or revers. cargo door same issue .
 

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Hello all, I'm new to the Pro master community, and hoping to get some help as to what I should do. I have a 2017 PM Cargo Van 1500. Only about 8k miles on it. Aside from issues like a cracked radiator, faulty slider door, broken dash display etc., I've had the van back at the dealer 4 times now for lurching problems while it downshifts when approaching a stop, shifting very hard in between gears, and an insulting 4.8 mpg in the city while EMPTY. I just received a phone call from the dealer that all of this is normal, even though the dealer told me there are fluid pump recalls etc. I am literally being told to there is nothing wrong with the van, even though upon switching from R to N or N to D it clunks into gear hard enough to rattle the whole van. One time they said it was because the transmission was really low on fluid, straight from factory. The time after that they said it was Computer update needed. Now, Chrsyler said it's normal. Please advise?


Having same issue on my 15 ram promaster city, they change body valve, then transmission and still shifts super hard from n to d. Drove with tech today he said I'm catching it while it shifting, and that there is nothing wrong with the van
 

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Having same issue on my 15 ram promaster city, they change body valve, then transmission and still shifts super hard from n to d. Drove with tech today he said I'm catching it while it shifting, and that there is nothing wrong with the van
Since you've got the 9 speed you should repost in here,
Ram ProMaster City Forum
 

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My '18 ate up its transmission at 20K. It's been rebuilt and seems to be working now... well, it still shifts poorly but that is in comparison to my last van, a Sprinter T1N. My confidence level in the rebuild is near zero- I do NOT expect it to last beyond 60K. The engine and transmission in the van are simply a poor match- the Pentastar makes terrific power but all in the wrong places and the transmission simply isn't up to the task of moving 8K lbs all day long. This same engine and transmission in a minivan are brilliant- but in this beast... they really aren't.

My mirrors don't defrost anymore (have been replaced twice) the dash has been replaced once but still believes the van has a 45 gallon fuel tank and reads the wrong range (my dealer has offered to replace it again but insists they need the van for three weeks to do so) it has the factory programed fuel wasting system that makes the engine idle at 1100 RPM an time its below 20F, and it's frankly annoying to drive on the highway, as it needs to downshift once or twice every time there is the slightest grade change, thanks to its gearing and utter lack of torque at the speeds its run at.

The throttle by wire is annoying too, while I'm busy complaining- and often requires a dramatic level of movement to produce any reaction. At 50 mph and on a slight rise it takes a full 3/4 petal movement to get any reaction from the ECU, and then it leaps down a gear or two. There is no "feathering the throttle" to achieve slight changes in velocity. The cruise control does this too- the van will bleed off 5-6 mph, then downshift once or twice and race up beyond its set point before backing down to the set speed. Speed will vary as much as 10 MPH.

I drive it with an extremely light foot and almost never exceed 62 mph. Of the 120+ miles it gets driven each day 100 of them are on the highway at steady speed. I use every hyper-miler trick in the book and have yet to get a tank over 15MPG. In the year I have owned it, the van has been at the dealer for 7 weeks.

The heater works well and it steers and handles fine- but the deficiencies make me hate it. Having a 300 mile maximum range with 120 miles a day of driving is terrible too- I need to fill the beast every other day. I still own my T1N and despite it having 350K on it and body rot, I am very close to returning to it.

This is the first vehicle I have ever owned that I have at times hoped would get T-boned. You couldn't pay me to own another.

I can not recommend this van to anyone.
 

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I can feel your pain. And I hate to be the bearer of bad news. But something is amiss here. I lay the blame, as I usually do, on dealer incompetence.
I own 3 2014s, identical to a 2018 in every way, with a combined 1.3 million miles on them. So I have a good idea of how they should behave. The high idle should kick in a 40 degrees, not 20. The big complaint is downshifting going down hills, not at steady state highway. The throttles are all excessively sensitive, not insensitive. At 62mph in winter with cruise, you should be in the mid 18s for mileage. In summer, flat and level at 62mph in a long wheelbase van, you should be at high 19s low 20s regardless of weight loaded. The trans shifting should be smooth and little noticed. At 60mph, you should be at exactly 2000rpm.
The telltale for me is your range reading. I have verified that the computer knows it has a 24 gallon tank. That yours thinks different tells me something. The other red flag is the high idle - I’d be looking to verify that the idle air intake temp sensor is reading correctly, because if it’s not the engine will be enrichened all the time, which will result in bad fuel economy and possibly harsher shifts with more downshifts. Similar problems could be caused by a misreading throttle pedal, since how hard you are stepping on it informs shift logic.
I’d recommend going to a different dealer, and just ask them to plug it in and poke around the computer. They may find all kinds of things. Or, I’d make a stink with your dealer and take the tech on a ride in yours back to back with a ride on another one on the lot. Point out the differences. Have him compare your fuel trims to a new one’s fuel trims. Look for discrepancies.
 
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