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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's the design for my couch/bed tops. They have been designed to offer two options - a 20" couch depth, and a 30" bed depth. To accomplish this, a double hinged top was built.


Here's a picture of the passenger side, with our newly custom ordered cushions in place. (curtains are temporary)



Here's a look at the top piece, segmented with hinges. In this position, the top surface is 30" wide and is comfortable for sleeping or a quick nap!

The top surface extends 6" past the end of the bed base. The cushions were made at 24" wide and 6" wide, and 4" thick. Placed next to each other, they form a 30" (24+6) sleeping surface.





When the plywood section closest to the wall is hinged up, the couch surface slides back and overhangs the couch base by about 3/4". Note: the wall isn't there yet!



The center plywood strip has a wooden clamping strip that keeps the top surface attached to the couch base. The plywood slides to each position and is held by the clamps underneath. The clamps on each end are held in place by two 1/4"-20 bolts shown in the picture above, between the hinges.




Near the front edge, there are two wood blocks to keep the top from sliding from the couch position. to slid the top, it is lifted about an inch, then slid out. Of course, the main piece of plywood is hinged to allow access to storage under each couch!

When extended, a stop built into the couch base keeps the top from extending beyond 6"



It works really well and takes about 5 seconds to convert from 20" sitting couch to extended 30" bed! :D





... and when both are extended, there is a 12" aisle to allow walking from front to back.
 

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Looks awesome!

Clean, simple and very functional looking!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nice work. Very well thought out. Looks like two different species on your face veneer. Please describe. Also, are you using 3/4" throughout your build or 1/2" on upper cabinetry?
Good eyes! Yes I started the project with 3/4" poplar plywood for my floor and "basement", and decided to use 3/4" oak plywood for surfaces that would later be stained and polyurethaned. Poplar plywood is also the backing board for my walls, then a 1/4" plywood with fabric cover will be the finished surface.... eventually.

My plan was to cover the top of the couch plywood with spray glue and staple on the matching fabric or a straight color fabric. I figured it will give the surface a bit more traction to keep the cushions from moving around. Option 2 is to recut the pieces with oak plywood and stain it to match. Not sure what the final result will be. The cushions didn't slide much on a recent 500 mile mini-trip.

Trying to decide if I glue a veneer strip on the exposed plywood edges or sand well and go with an "industrial look" ;)

Less than a year ago, the price of oak plywood was significantly higher at HD and Lowes, now they're only about $5 apart.

Thanks,
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I like it! Lots of storage to. How did you attach to floor?
The storage is like having a big car with 2 trunks! I love the space this van offers! My last van was a 1972 tradesman, so the PM is a whole different experience.

I wanted to design an interior where the "furniture" was removeable, so I use threaded brass inserts into the plywood. The couches are attached to the walls and floor with 1/4-20 bolts into these threaded inserts. The floor will eventually have a vinyl floor and there will be 3/8" holes in the vinyl where the beds bolt down. Hardly noticeable, I hope.

Because I built a basement, none of the units can bolt directly to the steel floor. For the couches, there will be a threaded rod that goes thru both floors and the steel floor near the wall edge of the van where it won't interfere with my basement storage area. I am working on a single sideways lap belt for each couch. They will be bolted to a piece of angle iron which is bolted to thru the steel floor.

Ed
 

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I'm leaning towards sanding the edge. I don't like that in cabinet work normally but I find the edge banding to be sort of like a bow on a pig.... its not going to change the fact it still plywood. I prefer face framing with a quality hardwood but in the campervan I will use just the ply in order to save weight and the "industrial" look is a feature. See Steve's Backroader build: http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showpost.php?p=97665&postcount=94
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm leaning towards sanding the edge. I don't like that in cabinet work normally but I find the edge banding to be sort of like a bow on a pig.... its not going to change the fact it still plywood.
My other thought is that, in high traffic areas, the veneer banding will probably get ripped off when bumped the wrong way.

I did notice that the aforementioned stores offer oak plywood that may have some voids in it. I came across a few. On an edge, I just cut a filler from scrap and glued it in.

Ed
 

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My other thought is that, in high traffic areas, the veneer banding will probably get ripped off when bumped the wrong way.

I did notice that the aforementioned stores offer oak plywood that may have some voids in it. I came across a few. On an edge, I just cut a filler from scrap and glued it in.

Ed
It's your project and either would look great but my vote is for edge banding with high quality veneer for the reason you just mentioned. Plywood these days are poor quality and every wood supplier knows it. All from box hardware stores will have voids. You may have a frustrating time finishing the edges when they keep chipping. The only plywood I like with finished edges is Baltic Birch because it's comprised of several solid even layers of birch veneer, which are cross-banded and finished with exterior grade adhesive.
Here is a photo of a finished edge baltic birch:
 

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Nice job, very clean. I am considering two beds like this just weighing the amount of room they take vs other options. Thanks for posting
 

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Hi,
One way to do nice edging for 3/4 plywood is to rip about half inch wide strips of Oak (or whatever matches they plywood well), and gluing and tacking the strips to the edge of the plywood. Looks nice and is durable.

Gary
 

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You are right and I have even band-sawed rounded corners once from Black Cherry on a job. It works and looks great. I expect it would be cheaper than buying Baltic Birch too. Allows for any species of wood as long a a veneer is available. Oak, cherry, maple, birch.......
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
jostalli,

datsa nice plywood! Price per sheet?

Bconno,

They do take up some space, that's why they will be 15 minute removable (battery is under there)... the nice part is you end up with a lot of under-the-bed storage that can be compartmentalized as needed. Great for all the stuff that would be rolling around in the back!

Gary, RD...

That's an idea worth pursuing. I also thought about the t-molding route, but not sure it would look as good as all wood.

Ed
 
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