Ram Promaster Forum banner

161 - 167 of 167 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
Trouble with my Webasto. She's throwing fault code #3 which is an electrical issue -- too low or too high voltage. I've changed nothing in the van and all other systems work fine. Monitoring my Victron I see that upon startup the Webasto draws between 6 and 10 amps and watch my five D31A Yellowtop OPTIMA batteries providing 375 amp-hours start dropping from infinite time remaining to one day in about two minutes. I run this test with no other draw on the fully charged system besides some led indicator lights on rocker switches.

The books says: F 03 Undervoltage or overvoltage 84 The voltage was less than 10.5 V or 21 V for longer than 20 seconds 04 The voltage was more than 16 V or 32 V for longer than 6 seconds. My voltage never leaves the 12's
Maybe for fun try putting a charger on the batteries to bring them into the 13s range and see if that fixes it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,197 Posts
What Harry said !!

I just installed and tested a diesel “barking” heater in my cabin. It uses a bitOpower with heating up the glow plugs. I did not have gauges installed, but my solar charged battery starting the heater it took several minutes for the glow plug to be shut off.

I also tested it with the charger hooked up to the battery, 14volts & the unit fired up and the glow plug was off seemingly under 1 minute.

If you can eliminate the battery bank as an issue, you might find out it is your battery bank, not your heater.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
What Harry said !!

I just installed and tested a diesel “barking” heater in my cabin. It uses a bitOpower with heating up the glow plugs. I did not have gauges installed, but my solar charged battery starting the heater it took several minutes for the glow plug to be shut off.

I also tested it with the charger hooked up to the battery, 14volts & the unit fired up and the glow plug was off seemingly under 1 minute.

If you can eliminate the battery bank as an issue, you might find out it is your battery bank, not your heater.
This is actually the original reason that I switched to using 24 and 48 volt battery packs and a DC- DC converter for the "12 ish" volt loads.

When it is cold enough outside for the heater to be needed, just a few slightly imperfect things can happen and the voltge in a 12 volt battery pack can be just short of enough to run the heater correctly.

The 10.8 volt Li setup in the goal zeros constantly have this problem.

9 out of 10 people still don't think that this is a good enough reason to use 24 volt battery packs but I keep trying.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,398 Posts
Odd but my 216 A-H of FLA have never failed to start my Espar diesel furnace w/o being 24 volts, no B to B charger, no Battery Doctor, no LI, no nothing but two $87 golf cart batteries. KISS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
Odd but my 216 A-H of FLA have never failed to start my Espar diesel furnace w/o being 24 volts, no B to B charger, no Battery Doctor, no LI, no nothing but two $87 golf cart batteries. KISS
Try a little bit more exciting conditions.

  • sub zero weather
  • batteries at 50% SOC
  • Van soaked at that temp for 24 hrs.
  • Midnight
Lots of things work when the conditions aren't very challenging.

I will admit that my first experience with this problem was a customer with full river agm batteries. Those things are really useless.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,398 Posts
I hear you. The 50% SOC would be enough to get me to start the van and drive a half hour and back to a fuel stop or take out. Nothing like fried chicken at midnight, or ice cream in the summer. I haven’t tried it but the problem would be hitting the low voltage cut off on the Espar (if it has one)
 
161 - 167 of 167 Posts
Top