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Here's the Dorman site for 5/16 steel to whatever, the 5/16 steel is the style of the connector and not necessarily what it connects to.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/gsearch.aspx?type=keyword&origin=keyword&q=5%2F16%20fuel%20line%20connector&start=0&num=25
For ease, look at these two, it would be up to you to check fitment.
This you can find at Auto stores on the wall it may say Ford or GM but all 5/16 Quick Connectors should work my quick connectors package was labeled FORD.
800-060
5/16 In. Quick Connector, 90 Degree w/ 18 In. of 5/16 In. Nylon Tube and a Union
This you would have to order.
800-135
FUEL LINE COMPRESSION UNIONS THAT ADAPT NYLON TO STEEL TUBES.
 

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dttocs, did you use a check valve? The guy who's doing the install for me says that he read that's needed in a 2017.
No, I haven’t. Your guy is correct that it’s a listed requirement - see http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2014/van/docs/vf/drec.pdf and several discussions on the forum. Others have installed without one without problems, but if you have the option (and access to the appropriate parts) then go for it. I haven’t seen anyone who has reported back on the parts needed for a check valve in a Webasto or Espar install.
 

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I've read dozens of installs in PMs & Sprinters. Nobody used a check valve and no one reported a fault code. See post 95 in this thread for a simple connection in a '15 PM gasser.
 

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Webasto Airtop 2000 ST - Fuel Pump Related Issue

I spent yesterday installing the Webasto.

All is done, however, it appears the fuel pump is not and the Rheostat blinking codes reveal fuel pump related issue as well (7 blinks). It appears the fuel pump is not powering up - no "clicking". After turning on the Rheostat at about 30 seconds the heater fan will turn on and about then I get the error codes.

I removed the fuel pump and went direct with some jumpers to a battery (metered over 12v) and it clicked but when put back on the Webasto harness -- nothing.

Power at the harness end at the fuel pump is just over 10 volts and I'm wondering if this drop in voltage is the problem and how to fix it.

I plan on calling Webasto Tech Support today.
 

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I initially tried the Dorman 800-081 to attach to the fuel line, but I later decided to search for a better-fitting Dorman connector, and found the Dorman 800-186 which uses a 6 mm barb and the same connector as the 800-081 for the Promaster tank fitting. It was much easier to fit the 5 mm ID (inner diameter) fuel hose over the 6 mm barbs than the 5/16" (almost 8 mm) barbs of the 800-123 or 800-081, and no need for additional parts. It has been working well for a couple of months now.

(And this time I was smarter, and used boiling water to soften the fuel hose - no burnt fingers like the last time)

@dobermin, did you ever solve your fuel pump error?
 

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Yes, I did. I installed and reinstalled the Webasto so many times I could have done it in my sleep.. it was driving me nuts. The Webasto techs said the small power wire was probably crimped causing the voltage drop. I addressed and re-addressed that - no luck. I then made my own wire replacing theirs - reinstalled - still broke.

I was running out of possibilities when I reached the moment of asking myself what is the dumbest thing I could have done -- and there it was: The power wire was not fully seated into the plastic clip that plugs into the pump!
 

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A head banger for sure. I can’t count the times I have done something similar and they seem to be happening at an accelerated pace!
My Leatherman appreciates it's holster!
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Proof of Concept

Tonight it’s 25° outside. The Webasto was humming right along, but the van seemed to have a bit of a chill. Van temp couldn’t seem to get past 66° and the air coming out didn’t seem as warm as usual. ??? Then I realized the downspout duct that directs intake air from above the bed wasn’t in its place. I had removed it while working on the rear trim and forgotten to replace it. When I put it back, the van temperature—at least of the occupied portion—dramatically started rising. The output air returned to its familiar warmth. Much better. :)

Adding this ductwork just seemed like a logical thing to do, but I had no idea the effect would be that dramatic.
 

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I was running out of possibilities when I reached the moment of asking myself what is the dumbest thing I could have done -- and there it was: The power wire was not fully seated into the plastic clip that plugs into the pump!

I had a similar issue on my install with the ends not connecting right at the plug that needs to be attached to the fuel pump wire. Definitely something for others to note if it doesn’t fire right away or the fuel pump ticking can’t be heard.
On the plus side it is so awesome to have heat in the van.



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So I did the altitude adjustment on my Webasto airtop 2000 stc the other night. I grounded the connector indicated in the photo before I turned it on.
After a bit the led flashed and I turned the rheostat to 9 oclock and ran it for 3 more minutes. Then while it was still running disconnected the grounded plug. When I did this
the heater shut down. Is that part of the procedure?
The fan was running during this time but it never really got hot plus does the led flash continually even or in busts? Mine was in groups of 7 which seems more like a fault code.
After it was done it restarted and worked great but I am unsure if I achieved any adjustment.


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Hello MsNomer

I considering the Webasto “Gas” heater in my build. My biggest concern is maintenance of the unit & I have read of both the diesel & gas models “carbon up” issues. Wondering if you (or others here) can update and educate me on this issue with the “gas” models so I can make an informed choice

Thank You (in advance),
RV8R
 

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Hello MsNomer

I considering the Webasto “Gas” heater in my build. My biggest concern is maintenance of the unit & I have read of both the diesel & gas models “carbon up” issues. Wondering if you (or others here) can update and educate me on this issue with the “gas” models so I can make an informed choice

Thank You (in advance),
RV8R
I absolutely love mine. I've had it for about a year, takes up little space and heats 'ur up perfectly even on a 10-degree Michigan November morning. Basically uses no fuel, and have had ZERO problems with it. I have the gas model and if I haven't run it in a month I will have to turn it on, let it cycle and error out -- I'll do this 4-7 times before she kicks on and I believe it is just a matter of pumping fuel back into the lines. After this initial process (after sitting weeks) it works great.

I try to run it on high for 30 minutes at least once a month.
 

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How loud are these units? Very likely installing one.
The pump, which is located under the van, makes a slight ticking noise which I kinda like. That way I know it’s working. The unit itself, which is smaller than a shoebox makes little noise. Just the fan and I can’t really describe it because it is so acceptable I don’t even remember. I can do a quick video of it today if you’d like.
 

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Only hear the pump during startup before the blower kicks in. While running it sounds like a small space heater with a fan. IMO the sound is white noise I don't notice. No effect on conversation or sleep. Mine under pass seat so its exposed.
 

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Trouble with my Webasto. She's throwing fault code #3 which is an electrical issue -- too low or too high voltage. I've changed nothing in the van and all other systems work fine. Monitoring my Victron I see that upon startup the Webasto draws between 6 and 10 amps and watch my five D31A Yellowtop OPTIMA batteries providing 375 amp-hours start dropping from infinite time remaining to one day in about two minutes. I run this test with no other draw on the fully charged system besides some led indicator lights on rocker switches.

The books says: F 03 Undervoltage or overvoltage 84 The voltage was less than 10.5 V or 21 V for longer than 20 seconds 04 The voltage was more than 16 V or 32 V for longer than 6 seconds. My voltage never leaves the 12's
 
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