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Discussion Starter #1
So the package came today. It was a blow to the gut that I paid $86 sales tax--the company has a site in Oklahoma I didn't know about. :crying:

It was another blow that while the wiring harness runs to the battery and to the switch are each 13 feet long, the wire to the fuel pump is only 17 inches!! Also, the kit does not include any interior ducting or the outlet grill. Therefore, I may be forced to buy the grossly overpriced RV Application kit. So the guy was wrong that 5010205A contains everything needed for an install.

The good part is that the heater appears to fit on the piece of flat floor just inboard of the passenger wheel well.

We spent the evening sorting the stuff and figuring what goes where. Fortunately, the connectors are all one-of-a-kind, so at least that should be about impossible to screw up.
 

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Fuel pump connections

The kit I bought (from U.K. Via eBay) shipped with the fuel pump cable, coming from the heater, without the plug installed. The actual wires had the pins installed but the plastic plug was not on. The plastic plug won't fit through the intake hole with the plug installed. Not the best design since would be hard to take the plug apart once it was assembled if needed to remove the heater. The kit also came with about 10 or so feet of two conductor cable and the parts to terminate it to build a fuel pump power extension cable. You cut the cable to length, then crimped the pins on (I soldered them as well) then inserted the pins in the plastic plugs.
 

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http://webastoliterature.businesscatalyst.com/assets/md---909520_cargoheatatevo40.pdf <-- the North American literature claims item (3. Hot Air Outlet/Ducting) IS included with the kit, a week or two ago I corresponded with a U.K. supplier who does not sell the ducting items separately due to its high volume/low weight as that is not cost-efficient for their flat-rate shipping purposes, perhaps the items were included in your suppliers shipment as separate bulk 'kit pieces' and overlooked by the shift/person who fulfilled your order?

Could maybe contacting: Webasto Thermo & Comfort, North America, Inc. 15083 North Road Fenton, Michigan 48430 Toll Free: 800-860-7866 and ask about the disparity save you some money? They say it should be included...
 

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I can’t help you with the sales tax unless a move to NH is in the works? Take the heater to your local auto parts store and see if they have a length of automotive heat/AC duct. Cars are metric, the hose is metric, 90mm I think. I believe I have a length left from my Espar instal and they are probably the same. I can check on January 16th. As for the outlet grill there may be something on ebay, see:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Espar+heater+duct&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XWabasto+heater+duct.TRS0&_nkw=Wabasto+heater+duct&_sacat=0
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks to all of you. Great info.

Webasto is closed for the holiday, and my salesman is off. I'm headed off next week for >three weeks of trips, so this install is delayed until early February. I will leave the van as-is for now.

dms, your description makes sense. That way, the cord would be the right length with no extra. Is there anything special about the cord itself? IOW, maybe I could get just the fittings. Are you sure the solder is a good idea given the vehicle vibration?

RD, this ducting is reminding me of setting up the dust collection in my shop. It is 60mm.
 

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I second the solder connection! Heater duct has an aluminized interior can stretch but the process is similar just duct and clamps. How much duct will you need? BTW find a local electrician or plumber and ask to borrow their Greenlee chassis punch for the holes in the van, super slick, or if you want to borrow mine PM and I can send it along.
Mine is an older version of:
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-735BB-Knockout-2-Inch-Conduit/dp/B001QIJP9C/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1483115466&sr=8-11&keywords=greenlee+knockout+set
I have the super large ones too, up to about 2-1/2 inch or so.
Yes I know I own too many tools! (is there such a thing?)
 

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Probably right about the soldering but did't like the look of the crimps since didn't have the right tool. Nothing special about the wire, looks like about 14 gauge stranded appliance cord, 2 conductor with a round covering.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just spoke to Webasto Tech Support. Lordy, Lordy, what a super nice guy! For ducting, he suggested I go to any place that services big rigs and ask for a scrap of ducting since I don't need much, and they might have a grill lying around, too. Big truck graveyards are another source--I've read of folks buying the units from graveyards, too, but I'm not that brave.

He said that especially with gas, lean is better. The manual procedure is not precise, but precision is not necessary. He suggested adjusting to 8:00 for above 10,000 ft and perhaps just leaving it there. Every time it is turned on, it needs to run on high at least 15 minutes even if you're sweating.
 

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Dang, I was sure looking forward to the details of your install this week. So have a great and safe trip.

Hoping your thread becomes the "authority" for the purchase, install, and operation of these units. Good info is just in so many different places.Here is one operation question I haven't seen answered yet: The standard temperature control knob is referred to as a rheostat. The continuous settings are thin to wide red bands. Are the different setting positions thermostatically controlled to hold a desired temperature or does it just set a dosing level for the fuel pump, thus setting a constant heat output? The latter would not be ideal. Then the SmartTemp controller upgrade may be worth it. The operation manual says set the dial for the desired temp but that is open to interpretation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We have the same kind of knob on our electric heater. We usually turn it on, watch the thermometer til it gets to the temp we want, then set the knob right at where the unit wants to cut out. We have learned to get pretty close without much fiddling. Even with the SmarTemp, you are measuring inlet air temp unless you shell out even more for the accessory temp sensor. Don't assume you can just substitute the SmarTemp later. I think it has a different wiring harness.

Remember we are not installing under the seat as most folk are. It will be inboard of the right wheel well, hopefully on the flat spot that is there.
 

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MsNomer was right. The tech support guys at Webasto are great! He emailed me the whole service manual.

I'm curious if you'd had a chance to test it out. Mine does great heating it up right when I turn it on, usually around 7:00pm. It'll get the van up to 70 no problem. Then at some point in the middle of the night it either can't keep up with the drop in temperature outside or the unit stops putting out as much heat and the temp in the van drops down to 50. Outside temp is around 6 degrees.

It unit never stops running but I think there's a drop in the heat it puts out after 5 hours or so. Do you experience the same kind of thing with yours? I'm trying to figure out what's happening. Do I need better insulation? Is the unit not functioning for some reason? Maybe the air coming into the unit is too warm and I need to duct the output air better?

My dream is a perfect 70 degrees all night long. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Haven't installed yet. I'm still on my 70th-birthday-present-to-myself solo trip. We will install when I get home. Actually I would love that kind of performance because my biggest fear is that MrNomer will want much warmer than I. 50° to me is perfect sleeping weather.

I had a "duh" moment. We have been discussing whether the gas version is safe, and I realized that the gas version was the original. The diesel version came later. These heaters were developed in the '30s for air-cooled cars.
 

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klunkytoons, Some pics of how/where your heater is installed may help us plan and better understand how these things function. Which temp control do you have? What setting gets u to 70? Can you increase setting when it cools down to get more output? Is temp control measuring intake air or at the controller? I have a keen interest because I will install one if I learn what the nuances are. Thanks.
 

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We're going to install a gasoline burning Webasto AFTER MsNomer learns all the tricks! We're scheduled for a hopeful initial construction mid April and any camping
then will be heated by a double propane Mr. Buddy (or whatever it's called)....in the fall we'll tackle the Webasto, by then team Nomer will have all kinks ironed.
 

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http://www.promasterforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55410&page=4

See post 32 for my location and description of the install. I have the rheostat controller. The basic knob. Unless you have an external temperature sensor, the sensor is in the unit. It takes the temp of the incoming air. For me, that's at the feet of the passenger. It then blows hot air to the back.

You'll notice all my extra seat sensors from my bench swap. Anyone with this issue, see here for a fix.

It also makes a great dryer for items place in front of it. I once got caught in a rainstorm in a slot canyon and it dried my boots out completely overnight by just placing them a safe distance in front of the webasto.

Here's some more things I learned. If you buy it off ebay and it's not from the U.S. you are likely to get the 2000 STC. It says it right on the top of the heater by the Webasto label. The "C" part of it means it's the Euro model. Things will be different than the 2000 ST which is the North American version. The tech and I figured this out today while searching for the external temperature sensor plug, X8. On the STC it's not where it's supposed to be on the ST. I'm hoping I'll find it when I pop off the cover the top of the unit.

The external temperature sensor should be a plug and play install. He thinks my issue with it not running hot after a few hours will be fixed with this. In his words, these units like to run HOT. There should be no problem with it running in high fire mode for 8 hours.

I'll report back when I make the upgrade. I uploaded the service manuals for you guys. They're pretty helpful to have.

I'm also now realizing I think my US Tech that installed the heater used the american wiring not the euro wiring diagram... it works but the wire colors are all different.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Kluny, one reason I didn't consider under the seat was concern that inlet and outlet have no effective separation. Just for grins, have you measured the temperature at the inlet?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My instructions are specific that inlet air to be warmed comes from the compartment being heated, not outside, but there needs to be separation so you get circulation. IIRC, they specify at least 2 feet separation.
 
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