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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I was told to start build conversation here. Thanks.

I have used this promaster last year to haul my moto bike and camp in one time.

I need help.

I just can't put together the materials to match my idea and measurements. Can you offer parts list that help ?

I want to install a shower pan 36" x 21" , drain, waste tank and plumbing. and also fresh water tank and plumbing.

Can I use the shower drain tank for all waste sewage ? I'm not sure how to plumb for venting and gas trap, other issues.

I measure under van , I want to place tanks between the under chassis rails, so I keep the size controlled to my preference. This seems to be a problem.
I have these measurements ...
--under shower tank drain 15" or 16" wide . 21" long two tanks or 42" long one tank. 5" depth.
--water storage tank size 10" or 11" wide 33" long. 5" depth.
--water storage 14" wide. 20" long two tanks or 40" long one tank. 5" depth.
--water storage 33" long. 11" wide. 10" depth.
All these sizes will fit safely under chassis between rails without much exposure.
--How do I find these tank sizes ?
  • Should I use bladder tanks and make or buy containers to fit then put bladders in those ?
  • Or am I all wrong ? Please help guide me I cannot get anything done because I can't get a material game plan figured out.

I don't have any space available inside van because moto bike and all use up all space.

I will try to ad my progress pics someday. I was pretty happy with my three rolls of prodex insulation and three times the amount of double side tape. My goal was to fill and cover any and all metal transfer possibility's to control inside temp. So I layered and filled voids with the prodex insulation. It seems like it will help. The cab area was still letting in to much outside temp, so I gutted that area and wrapped everything in prodex also. I will also make extra window covers with the prodex to help out there. But I think it was a good material option to work with.
 

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2017 136” HR
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I believe they mean Prodex, I vaguely recall another post. It’s basically the same as EZ-cool, ¼” closed cell foam sandwiched between aluminum type foil. A fancier version of Reflectix, but no air bubbles that can pop.
 
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Van #2 2021 EXT
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Hi @travel

Reading thru some of your posts I understand you have a 2014 3500. Is that 159” regular or EXT?



Font Screenshot Number Rectangle Document


Also, I understand you want capability of “off road(ish) activity & all under chassis tanks; Fresh, Grey, Black

No interior space for the fresh water tank inside ,,, even a wheelwell tank.

So in order to make suggestions I have a few questions;

1) Does ground clearance matter to you? If so how much?
2) Are you dumping toilet into these tanks? If not then shower & sink only I suspect it is a grey water class

I sourced “tanks” locally from plastic tank manufacturers & Amazon. You might want to visit some local RV shops or plastic specialty shops or marine shops, etc.

DIY van Building has more to do with design than build. A big part of the design is sourcing materials & equipment.

I purchased my under chassis grey water tank from IP&P local & it was 16” wide & fit nice between the X-Members;




 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
HELP.
What did I do ?
I just tried to start the van to move it but no start and hazards won't turn off, I think the air bag warning light might be reason. I don't have the passenger seat in or plugged in.
I tried to clear and reset with my obd tuner but it said no issues but the engine won't run so I could only turn key to on for scan.
I tried disconnecting battery but no help.
I had to unplug battery just to turn off hazards.
I can't get all the doors to lock when I unplug battery to stop hazard lights.
Please help me solve my problem. engine won't start, it cranks but acts like no fuel pressure because it tried to sputter little on first try but then I could tell something not functioning.
I put the cab area back together after insulating area and this non starting and hazard light issue after result.
I might have screwed into wiring who knows. or maybe the seat air bag wiring issue ?
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Help.
The dash board lights are saying... Fuel cut off triggered.
What did I do ? How do I fix ?
Van will crank but not start. I was able to unplug battery to get hazards off and then plug battery back in so I can lock all doors.
When I turn the key on the hazards come on and won't turn off and van won't start, warning light says fuel cut off triggered.
Thanks.
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in Indiana
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Fuel cut off triggered.
maybe resetting the fuel cutoff switch, it's in the passenger footwell where the right foot would be, it's should be in the owners manual
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have had the passenger seat removed for awhile and been using the van without passengers seat and the seat wires unplugged.
But I removed drivers seat to insulate floor and I did something that has triggered the dash warning, fuel cut off triggered.
I searched the manual looking for enhanced accident response system reset procedure, but I did not find anything in manual.
I seen a video resetting it by turn signal lever, but my flashers were triggered also. so no help to me.
I need to find the reset procedure for my 2014 gas van.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
maybe resetting the fuel cutoff switch, it's in the passenger footwell where the right foot would be, it's should be in the owners manual
I did not find anything in manual.
I searched for rest procedure.
I do not understand what your referring to on the drivers floor.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks to all of the amazing helpful people here. Greatly appreciated.
I was able to pull the passengers side right forward floor back and easily find the button to push to fix the fuel cut off triggered problem.
Thank you all !
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
When I bought my used van I was told light crash damage fox report showed. But I have been concerned about the van looking tilted since I bought it and I noticed a feeling of roll or tipping to the drivers side in turns.
I measured on flat concrete today and the drivers side is 1-1/4" lower. measuring straight up to mirror edge on both sides.
Last year I put the sumo rubber spacer things on all four corners to help it feel safer.
Can you all offer any thoughts or advice on this issue ?
Could the strut be bad ? Are those hard to change on this ? I did struts on my car, but the van might be difficult.
Thanks
 

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2017 2500 HiTop 159 Cargo Van white.
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When I bought my used van I was told light crash damage fox report showed. But I have been concerned about the van looking tilted since I bought it and I noticed a feeling of roll or tipping to the drivers side in turns.
I measured on flat concrete today and the drivers side is 1-1/4" lower. measuring straight up to mirror edge on both sides.
Last year I put the sumo rubber spacer things on all four corners to help it feel safer.
Can you all offer any thoughts or advice on this issue ?
Could the strut be bad ? Are those hard to change on this ? I did struts on my car, but the van might be difficult.
Thanks
The strut itself is not likely the cause. The spring does the lifting, the strut supports the spring. If it was wrecked might it have a wrong ( short) spring. Is the back as far off as the front? Do you have heavier items on the low side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for helping.
The van is empty. never been a load weight issue, it is a van issue.
I checked the rear and it's only tilted 1/2" to same side. but the front is 1-1/4" tilt.
so I think your advice on the spring could be the problem.
Maybe I can jack up front and try to look for spring issue.
But if I need new springs shouldn't I change the struts during that process. Same work load involved I think ?
Do you know what brand company to choose for new springs, struts, shocks, leaf springs. I might look into all this.
The tilted van and bad suspension has bothered me a lot. I hope to fix it.
 
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