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2014 136” HR
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Two of the four, at least. I chose Motion Windows instead of CRL because I wanted to maximize vent area. One fourth of each of these windows is screened.

My story began with a visit to Motion Windows near Portland, WA, last fall. Jeff gave us a tour, and George gave us a detailed demonstration about installation. We left with hardboard templates for the four windows, each maximum size for the space.

Playing around with the templates, I realized that no way would the rear ones fit, neither height or depth. I called Jeff and he didn't want to believe me. "This is standard size." "We've installed a number this size with no problem." …. I stood my ground and ordered the rear ones 1.5” shorter and all of them 1/4" shallower.

I was right. We couldn't have handled even 1/16" greater depth in the rear panels. No more than 1/4" more length for the rear ones.

MW says their windows are curved to the contour of the side of the van. They are not. They are angled to that contour; the glass is flat. The effect, though, is quite pleasing and does not appear to distort the metal even at this maximum size.

The windows appear to be extremely well made and were expertly packed.

Like any other installation, the hardest part is making the template and lining it up. Here's how I'm doing it:

Make external and internal templates of 1/8” hardboard.

Position internal template on inside of panel while 2d person drills two random 1/4" holes through template and metal near opposite corners, but far enough in not to interfere with the jigsaw.

Take internal template to outside of panel without flipping it and bolt it on with 1/4" bolts through the existing holes. Add two more bolts near the other corners.

Using double-stick tape, tape a cross-bar of Masonite or thin ply across the middle of the outer template. I used turner's tape. Carpet tape would also work.

Position the outer template over the inner template, leaving a blade-width gap all around.

Drill two 1/4" holes through the cross-bar, inner template, and metal, then bolt it down.

Drill several entry holes large enough for the jigsaw blade just inside the cut line. I am left-handed, so I positioned the entrances so I could maximize cutting left to right.

Cut along the gap with jigsaw supported on both sides. Cut up to the cross-piece, then remove it (and the outer template) and finish the cut.

I also left short hinges top and bottom until last.

On the right rear, I had to cut the bottom from the inside. It would be easiest to do this first before taking the inner template outside, but I wasn't that smart.

While I was cutting, my husband added two L-brackets to the bolts on the inside of the panel. These gave him "handles" to grab the panel as it came free.

The other tedious chore was masking off. I took heed of the warnings about flecks in the paint, but my husband didn't want to believe it. I masked anyway, but one piece lifted, and sure enough, I found a few. I was able to flick them out, but they would not have come off on their own.





 

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Great looking windows and nice pictures, thanks!
Now....... Please give us the window model number, exact size, and any other information we might need to order the exact window you put it. I think they are just the size I want for the back but may put in a shorter one on the driver's side front. I bought factory windows on the sliding door so no vent there unfortunately, both of mine would be on the drivers side.
 

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Nice to see there's some options for, as you mentioned, larger vented area.


I'm just too hung up on the 'factory' look of the CRL windows, with the full glass area.


For now, not planning any extra windows, just the stock rears and in the slider. May put one behind the driver in the future, and am keeping notes on how folks did their installs; I like your template procedure.
 

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2014 136” HR
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Discussion Starter #5
Here's a photo of the inside of left rear.



RD, Jeff said the rear windows (OD) should be 51.5" (or was it 51.25?) x 21.25". Mine are 49.75" x 21.25". I'm remembering better now the height discussion: the invoice says +/- 1/8". I knew I couldn't tolerate an extra 1/8", so asked for a 1/4" reduction as a safety factor. Jeff assured me they would be exactly 21.25", and they are. I had asked for 50.0" width and that would have been exact, but 49.75 is fine.

Bottom line: on MY van, the max size for the rear windows is 50" x 21.25". However, there's a reason why Jeff says wider will fit. My Promaster is a 11/13 build. I cannot imagine them changing something back there, but before you commit, get the exact dimensions and make a preliminary template out of poster paper. It was the poster paper that saved me.

Here's another funny: the right rear window is level to almost 1/1000 inch with the sliding door bar, it is level with the top seam like its mate across the way, and looks level from outside. Yet, on the inside it is skewed from the reinforcing bar that the other window sits flat on, and could have tolerated a bit more height. Go figure.

 

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Nice job. Do you know the ID of the window? Curious how it compares to CRL rear windows.
If your OD is 50x 21.25 I would guess they are about 47+- by 19+- ?
 

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nice post!
I'm looking at windows for my 139" PM
I like max ventilation and the price of these looks good!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Third window (behind driver) went in today. We learned some hard lessons, but came out OK.

I contemplated that the top seam might not be the same height between back and front, but didn't see a way to measure. I was right to be concerned--the front seam is higher. Sooo, here's what I would do if I were doing it again:

Fit a thin strip of ply between top of rear window and the overhanging ridge. Tape this underneath the ridge over the front window space. Measure down a comfortable distance-->3/4"--and drill two holes from the outside. Inside, measure up from these holes that same distance to determine where the top of the window surround should be. 3/4" down from there is the top of the opening.

In our case, the front window surround is about 1/4" below the seam, while the rear window surround is snugged under it.



Width was also a squeeze--had to tuck the right side of the surround into the seam behind the driver.



All's well that ends well:
 

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Two of the four, at least. I chose Motion Windows instead of CRL because I wanted to maximize vent area. One fourth of each of these windows is screened.

....cut.....
Is one fourth area screened the most you found for ProMaster? I thought 50% screened like on many campers would be made for PM.

By the way, very nice job. Van looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is the most you can get and still accommodate the curve in the van's side. Folks have successfully installed flat windows--many to choose from, but I've not seen an install of anything flat this big. I didn't want to be the test case.

Another note: I have Systemic Lupus which makes me extraordinarily sensitive to UVA--it could kill me. I got the dark gray tint, 14% transmittance. The interior is actually darker than with the white walls, even in sunlight. I don't think covering will be required for privacy even at night. From outside, you can barely tell there's a light on, but can't see anything around it. However, the view from the inside is fantastic. It's a pleasure to open the slider and not be met with a blank wall. Apart from other conveniences, this van will be a sanctuary in which I can remove my protective garb and still enjoy the outdoors.
 

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It came out really nice... as I read your post, I was all set to say, "All's well that ends well", but you beat me to it!

I appreciate your cinder block/brick step in the back. I bought an aluminum ladder single step at Harbor Freight and cut the legs to make it a halfway-up step while I'm working on the van. When I'm working on the inside, it feels like I'm doing about 50 in/out trips a day! The step helps a lot!

I did the CRL factory look windows, but don't have any ventilation...my PM just fits under our carport (3" clearance) so a fantastic fan won't work. I'm thinking about a round vent fan mounted in the top metal of the door above the rear door window... still in the design phase!

Enjoy!
Ed
 

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This is the most you can get and still accommodate the curve in the van's side. Folks have successfully installed flat windows--many to choose from, but I've not seen an install of anything flat this big. I didn't want to be the test case.

....cut.....
Thanks for the heads up. I had seen windows like on Travato that open more (close to 50%) but they are indeed smaller. I had not noticed the curvature of the van's side until I looked at one of your pictures.

By the way, how much does that panel curve? If you put a straight edge vertically, how much would it be off van sides as if it were a flat window? Are we talking 1/16 to 1/8 inch at top and bottom, or is it more than that?

Just wondering how a flat window would look if it sticks out -- not to mention difficulty sealing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ha! This is no 1/8". This is a curve. Couldn't get a number without 3 hands, but this stick is resting at the bottom of the panel:



Never, ever think ANYTHING on this vehicle is flat or straight or level!!! :|

Remember that what looks like one big panel on the outside is still constrained to the curve at the rib between the windows and my windows are actually touching those ribs. Smaller flat windows, yes, I've seen a lot of nice installations, but with this size, I wouldn't.
 

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I have two Motion Windows ready to install in my 2016 PM. The instructions provided by Motion Windows seem a bit limited, so I'm looking for some help from anyone who has installed them.

The windows came with some foam tape that is used to provide a seal on the window exterior. My question is about the interior clamp ring. Have people been adding anything to the interior or are you clamping the interior ring directly to the van?

Cutting the opening seems pretty straightforward, just need to find a bit of courage to get started.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yep, interior ring clamps directly to the van. Once your hole is cut (deburr and prime the edge) you are home free.

Measure thrice, not just twice.
 

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The Motion foam tape provides a good seal. I applied to window first. Be sure to mist the tape surface that touches van skin (as they say in their video) to allow slight placement adjustment. Otherwise it's VERY difficult to move the window after the tape touches the van.
 
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