My 159 wb came with the factory rear fixed windows and fixed window on the slider door. I'm considering just adding a T-vent window behind the driver's seat and a fantastic fan. I have the factory partition with the sliding window. Will cracking the cockpit windows, opening the T-vent window and running the ceiling fan provide enough ventilation during a warm Summer night? My wife has not warmed up to the idea of leaving doors ajar at night for extra relief. Plan B is to spring for additional sliding windows in the quarter panels.
Minimum # windiws for adequate ventilation.
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I put two awning windows in my 159. Both about 20" X 24" I put one behind the drivers seat and the other on the same side all the way back plus I have a roof fan. They provide more than enough ventilation and cost me well under $150 for the pair, inc shipping and screens. I rarely even use the fan but keep it open all the time when it's above 40°-50° I also keep the window at the back side opened fully in mild weather. It makes the slider easy to close as a bonus and no need to crack the front windows at all.
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KOV is right as usual, and I have a similar situation with an awning open near the back at the head of our bed and the Fantastic Vent open but not running near the front, a nice airflow occurs. We leave them open no matter how cold it is out, then start the Espar furnace in the morning to warm things up and make coffee. Cool inside, no condensation, and healthy fresh air!
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One last suggestion - if you decide you only want one window put it as far back as possible and not right behind the drivers sear. Put the roof vent in the spot on the roof that is designed for it (right behind the front seats) and you will have all the ventilation you will ever need.
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My solution - TWO MaxAir fans. When it warms up I open both, but usually only run the rear fan (on exhaust). The fans can even stay open when the van is on the move. If I need more circulation at night, to cool things down, I open the awning window in the slider.
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I have the 2 Maxair fan arrangement same as Steve above and I do the same -- run the aft one on exhaust (usually at just 30% power) and the front one off or having incoming air at a slow speed. I have no opening windows except the front and I leave them closed. I use the van camping in very hot weather and in very cold weather -- I love the Espar! I have no A/C. I have always believed that I have enough fresh air for myself -- only one person in van overnight. Using just the Maxairs eliminates openings for bugs. I have no screens except those on the fans.
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I have 2 Maxxair fans & no rear windows. I run the fans the same way as seapro, rear one on exhaust and front one off or incoming at low speed. I also have a set of Airvent Cab Window Inserts (see http://www.eurocampers.com/2014--2016-Dodge-ProMaster-Airvent-Cab-Window-Inserts_p_1101.html) and a reflective shield for the windshield, to minimize daytime heat buildup in the cab. The AirVents have built-in screens (no bugs) and the louver design keeps out the rain. They provide good security as they are very sturdy (metal not plastic) and cannot be removed without lowering the window. When I first bought the PM, I figured I would have to add a window to the cargo area but now see no need to do so. The 2 Maxxair fans act like skylights during the day (to give some natural light in the cargo area), and no windows back there means I don't need to bother with curtains or shades.
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To the guys with maxx fans are your vans insulated?
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Yes
My van is super insulated. As rear corners and door areas are almost impossible to properly insulate I have a wall constructed of 2 by 4s, 3.5 inches of insulation, and 1/2 inch pre-finished plywood both sides across the entire rear about 14 inches inside the rear doors. The space aft of the wall is accessible only from the outside and contains only stuff I need outside at a campsite plus an Espar heater, and its small diesel tank (my van is a gasser). Much is stored there as things are hung on the wall to fully utilize vertical space. The only penetrations of this wall are Espar air ducts and control wiring.
The sides of the van and overhead are well insulated between the "ribs" using good old pink fiberglass insulation. (I have used this in a previous van with absolutely no moisture problems.) Inside of the ribs I have 3/4 inch thick wood framing and that is covered with a 1/4 inch foil faced plastic insulation and then 1/4 inch pre-finished ply. The wood framing is screwed to the steel and the interior panels are screwed to the wood framing. No internal screws touch the steel so there is no heat loss through them.
The sliding door has minimal insulation. I have a curtain that slides across just aft of the front seats to keep cold or hot air there. The curtain fits tight against the edge of the upper storage shelf and reasonably tight to the floor. The Espar D2 keeps all very warm in freezing weather and the 2 fans keep a breeze through in hot weather. I camp in cold weather and warm weather in New England, not very hot weather in the south in summer. I do camp in the southeast in the winter also.
The sides of the van and overhead are well insulated between the "ribs" using good old pink fiberglass insulation. (I have used this in a previous van with absolutely no moisture problems.) Inside of the ribs I have 3/4 inch thick wood framing and that is covered with a 1/4 inch foil faced plastic insulation and then 1/4 inch pre-finished ply. The wood framing is screwed to the steel and the interior panels are screwed to the wood framing. No internal screws touch the steel so there is no heat loss through them.
The sliding door has minimal insulation. I have a curtain that slides across just aft of the front seats to keep cold or hot air there. The curtain fits tight against the edge of the upper storage shelf and reasonably tight to the floor. The Espar D2 keeps all very warm in freezing weather and the 2 fans keep a breeze through in hot weather. I camp in cold weather and warm weather in New England, not very hot weather in the south in summer. I do camp in the southeast in the winter also.
How warm a summer night and what is your tolerance to heat?
The nice thing about ventilation is that it's easy and inexpensive to move lots of air. The downside is that cooling is limited to ambient air conditions. Once you move so much, moving more doesn't help much.
The other thing to consider is that when staying cool at night by moving lots of outside air through van, insulation doesn't do much. Inside and outside air temperatures are pretty much the same.
For my wife and me, it's difficult to stay comfortable at night without air conditioning if it's very warm and humid. I'd roughly guess a wet bulb temperature of 75*F or higher is just too hot even if we were willing to leave doors and windows open. At 60*F it's easy for us to stay cool without AC or much ventilation. In my opinion it depends a lot on weather and your needs/tolerance.
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>To the guys with maxx fans are your vans insulated?
Yes, insulation throughout the cargo area, plus reflective inserts for cab windows. The insulation & fans keep the van interior from exceeding outside ambient when van is sitting in the hot sun. For those really hot nights, I also use a "personal fan" which blows directly across the bed from the side. Any perspiration is blown dry for a cooling effect while sleeping.
Yes, insulation throughout the cargo area, plus reflective inserts for cab windows. The insulation & fans keep the van interior from exceeding outside ambient when van is sitting in the hot sun. For those really hot nights, I also use a "personal fan" which blows directly across the bed from the side. Any perspiration is blown dry for a cooling effect while sleeping.
For All of You who have diesel.
In between drivers and passengers seats there is a hatch for a tank service.
I unscrew this hatch and instead mounted an air vent with +12v cooling fan (120mm computers fan). Works perfect while sleep inside. Shure when driving a hole has to be closed.
In between drivers and passengers seats there is a hatch for a tank service.
I unscrew this hatch and instead mounted an air vent with +12v cooling fan (120mm computers fan). Works perfect while sleep inside. Shure when driving a hole has to be closed.
In re-reading my post 10 above I see I failed to mention floor insulation which is vital for cold weather. Above the ribs I have luan so the trapped air between the ribs provides some dead air space insulation. Above that I have 1/2 inch closed cell plastic insulation topped with 3/4 inch plywood. To me, that is about as much insulation as can be added without making the entrance step height too high or reducing headroom considering the thick interior overhead insulation.
I just wish to thank everyone for the all of the useful info and insights. I've decided to add a T-vent window opposite the fixed slider window and add two Maxxair fans to get some airflow. I'm going to have a platform bed in the rear that's also going to have to pull double duty as a couch, so I don't want bang my noggin on a window. Originally I wanted windows all around like a passenger van ..but I spent 15 minutes in my van on a cold but sunny Winter day and was amazed by the heat output caused by the slider door window. Greenhouses are nice in Winter..not so much in Summer.
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