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I find the cab somewhat noisy when driving at highway speeds. I presume it's mostly "wind" sounds but I'm not entirely sure. I have a 2017, 159" wheel base, high roof ProMaster.

When I did my camper conversion I used a variety of sound proofing and insulation so the cargo area is very quiet but I'd like to minimize the noise up in the cab while driving if possible.

Has anyone done this? If so, what did you do and how impactful was it?

I tried searching this topic and all the threads I find are related to sound control/insulating the cargo area.
 

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Don't forget to put material behind the headliner in the shelf area above the front seats. Basically on the 'forehead' of the van above the windshield, where the running lights are. That was one of the first area I put Thinsulate in BoB. Also think about doing the doors. I haven't done that yet, but I'm quite pleased with the sound levels in BoB. Especially being a diesel, I find it rather quiet at speed (noisy around town though, but I like that).
 

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Glad you asked. There is a lot of discussion about how quiet we make our vans. No doubt, the living areas are very quiet while parked. But I too find the cab very noisy at highway speeds. Windows, mirrors, roof stuff, and TIRES. We are sitting over the front tires. When a big rig passes me (maybe you pass them) their tires are way louder than their motor. I'd be surprised if this can be significantly improved but I'm open to ideas.
Cruz' with my radio on level 25+.
 

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I am also interested in this topic since my Promaster is a chassis-cab. In other threads, people have talked a lot about the noise coming from the cargo area, but I can tell you that the cab itself is also noisy. I have taken some decibel measurements with a phone app and, on an old, rough section of concrete interstate, at 70 mph, my readings run about 83 db average, and 91 db maximum. (Of course, readings are lower on typical asphalt roads.)

I figured that the bare back wall of my cab would be the easiest place to add some sound-proofing, so I tried a cheap / lazy approach as a first step. I bought some 5 mm thick adhesive-backed sound-proofing closed-cell foam on ebay for $11 and covered 24 square feet of the back wall. I spent about 15 minutes applying it. I didn't expect a big effect, but I figured it would help a little. My phone app did not show a difference. Sound-proofing areas closer to the wheels may be more effective.

From what I have seen in various threads, it seems that the most promising areas of the cab for sound-proofing (in order of priority?) are: doors, headliner, and step wells. Any other places? Unfortunately, all of those locations involve a lot of effort for the amount of coverage.
 

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I used patches of butyl rubber sound deadening sheets in the front doors and in the roof over the cab. Then covered the area above the headliner with Thinsulate and what I could in the doors (It's difficult to get some areas in the doors and leave room for the window mechanism to work). The result was a noticeable difference in road noise and with the same (And tons of foam sheeting in the back) the van is now surprisingly quiet for a cargo van.
 
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There was a late November thread about 'Thinsulate vs. Dynamat' discussing this. Check it out. My personal education on sound came from this site, sounddeadenershowdown.com, lots of good info. I have no affiliation with this company other than I gave them a 'chunk of change'.
 

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When you get "old" you won’t hear a thing - believe me ;)
 

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I sound proofed the box on mine. The cab noise doesn't bother me until I get up above 70 mph in a cross wind. Then I notice noise thru the side mirror areas and atop the cab. I generally cruise at 65, speed limit allowing. Just more comfortable at that speed in many ways.
 

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I don't understand the problem? I simply turn the music up until I can't hear the wind noise. Funny thing is that it's a lot more quiet now without having done any additional sound proofing.

Gotta cut this short. Heading to Costco for my hearing aid.
 

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If your mirrors are vibrating, they may be eligible for replacement under warranty. One of ours was. They should be pretty solid at any speed.
 

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If your mirrors are vibrating, they may be eligible for replacement under warranty. One of ours was. They should be pretty solid at any speed.
They do move some at high speed but the only noise is wind noise. I don't get a buzzing from the mirror movement. One has already been replaced, but due to the retracting mechanism failing.


Can't believe that others don't see their mirrors buffeting at high speed. Really noticeable when I'm out west passing through Wyoming and Utah moving at about 85mph.
 

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After creating a "howl" with the "canard wing" over the clearance lights , then moving it back between the lights and the radio antenna all I hear now is road noise from the slider area , and self inflicted roof rack/solar woosh . I see that the slider has been adjusted before it was mine .
The "canard wing" is a Yakima Jetstream crossbar intended to create some turbulence before the solar panels , reduce drag ? . There's one at the rear over the lights that does improve the boundary layer on the rear doors as proven with the dancing yarn . Real rocket science .
 

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2016 136WB low roof diesel, converted to an RV by Sportsmobile, TX
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I'd love to see pictures of your canards. I have a pop-top, and that greatly increases noise due to the airflow drumming on it.
 

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Well not really a "canard" wing . The Yakima's are the most aero / quiet of cross bars . Some vortex generators might be right for your app . Google those . VGs make aircraft wings more effective at low speeds , bring airflow down across the trunk of race cars to male rear spoilers more effective , etc .
 
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