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I can chime in here. I have two 2014 vans, with 309k and 342k on them. I have lots of details if you need it, but basically the gas vans are solid. I too would avoid the diesel.

The trans is rock solid. Even with 160k, the fluid is only 3 years old and you still have time to change it. I had one trans problem in 651k of ownership, and it was the solenoid pack and I swapped myself for $150.

The engines are rock solid with one exception: the valve train. Percentage wise, very few vans have this problem, but I had it twice, and it turned out to be cheaper to swap the engine than replace the head. If the van you are looking at hasn't had a misfire problem by 130k, it's probably never going to have it. Junkyard engines (any 2014-2016 pentastar without start/stop fits) are $1550 with under 20k miles and any mechanic can install one in about 15-20 hours. Took me a week in my driveway. But the price difference between new and used buys you a LOT of engines. I'd have absolutely no hesitation on a van with 160k. Take it to a commercial shop and pay the guy to read any stored codes, and that's all there is to know.
 
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I can chime in here. I have two 2014 vans, with 309k and 342k on them. I have lots of details if you need it, but basically the gas vans are solid. I too would avoid the diesel.

The trans is rock solid. Even with 160k, the fluid is only 3 years old and you still have time to change it. I had one trans problem in 651k of ownership, and it was the solenoid pack and I swapped myself for $150.

The engines are rock solid with one exception: the valve train. Percentage wise, very few vans have this problem, but I had it twice, and it turned out to be cheaper to swap the engine than replace the head. If the van you are looking at hasn't had a misfire problem by 130k, it's probably never going to have it. Junkyard engines (any 2014-2016 pentastar without start/stop fits) are $1550 with under 20k miles and any mechanic can install one in about 15-20 hours. Took me a week in my driveway. But the price difference between new and used buys you a LOT of engines. I'd have absolutely no hesitation on a van with 160k. Take it to a commercial shop and pay the guy to read any stored codes, and that's all there is to know.
We just hit 500,000 with our 2016 Dodge Promaster Van, just wondering if that is any kind of record? It is a regular gas engine.
 

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I’m at 560k on one van, 520k on another. There is a guy I know who discovered that the odometer stops working at 621k, because that 1m kilometers. That’s a problem for all of us because I need to document those miles for taxes.
 
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I’m at 560k on one van, 520k on another. There is a guy I know who discovered that the odometer stops working at 621k, because that 1m kilometers. That’s a problem for all of us because I need to document those miles for taxes.
Yes paid miles wont be a issue but rest would. IRS could never pinpoint miles anyway unless you get crazy and raise flags. I always write down where year starts off at and where it ends now.
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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@Kip-on-truckin
FCA planned obsolescence

Anyway big brother has a fix for that, mileage on the door frame + odometer reading = actual mileage.
49 USC 32704 (Odometer - Service, Repair and Replacement)
60354

60355
 

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Well, we/I am writing off something like 240,000 mikes at 56 cents a mile yearly, so I take a photo of the odometers every jan 1st.
There are products on ebay that advertise they can reset the odometer, but i just have this sense that they wont actually work. Recommendations?
 

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No, it’s a thoroughly chrysler ECU, which I’m fairly certain is where the odometer reading lives. If you replace the ecu for any reason, you go to a chrysler dealer and they encode the car’s vin to the ecu and reset the odometer.
Some private shops can do this, if they pay $1200 for tge chrysler software and a per use fee to chrysler for the job.
I’m still working on solving this odometer problem.
 

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Phil,
What is your thinking about the diesel? I know mine with 44K and perfect service record on it is not indicative of 160K but you speak like you know something. What is it? Thanks
OP
BTW I have bought lots of vehicles with over 100K on them and found them to be excellent and all have gone another 100K without any major repairs or are on their way. Currently Miata 106K, Suzuki GV 150K, 4Runner 240K, former f150 235K sold, it’s still running, Explorer 206K when sold. No transmission work, no engine work, no problems really. I don't think that 160K is a big issue if you drive it 100K more.
I wanted to follow up on this post as i've been researching the diesels heavily. How did this reply age? Did you end up running into a load of problems??
 

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MMXVI - L2H2 in IN
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I wanted to follow up on this post as i've been researching the diesels heavily. How did this reply age? Did you end up running into a load of problems??
Not sure what your looking for but here's what I've observed, some diesel owners haven't had problems and some diesel owners have paid through the nose, a diesel without a warranty is a risky play.
IMO, no one should buy one regardless of the price-mileage-condition, they don't make them and it seems they can't fix them.
The market for used diesel Promaster's is to send them overseas.

The OP bought a gasser.
 

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All newly registered members MUST make an introductory post in the Introductory Post Forum as per forum rules. "Promasterforum.com Introduction Section " Please be aware until you do make the required introductory post any posts you make may be deleted
Without a survey I can tell you I have 107K miles on my 2014 and have had no major repairs. I did have a coil fail and that was a bit worrisome but it was at 97K miles and I was due for the 100K service any way. The transmission, although clunky and an old design, is actually fairly robust. I had the previous design (basically the 4 speed version) in our minivan and it lasted well over 360K with only the solenoid pack needing replaced at 250K. It probably would have lasted much longer except our daughter wrecked it.
gas or diesel?
 
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