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Van #2 2021 EXT
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thank you!
One Trick I used - in trying to reference locations above floor & under chassis is this;

1) attempt to measure topside & underside using whatever references you can.

2) once determined the location of your new hole - drill down thru your floor with a “small” drill bit like 1/8” diameter.

3) check the underside (leave the drill bit in the hole and locate the exact position under the chassis)

4) if you are happy with the location then use the large hole “hole saw” to make the final hole
 

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2021 1500 136"WB High top
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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
RV8R thank you so much! I will do that.
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I started painting my ceiling today. I cut holes for the lights and skylight first. I'll cut fan's hole later. I didn't get enough extra tile so the cut has to be perfect. The bent pieces will follow the ceiling curve at the corners then meet the walls. I painted both sides with primer because it's tin so it will rust. Tomorrow I paint the enamel top coats. The sprayer worked great! I might never paint with a brush again.

74463
 

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2021 1500 136"WB High top
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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
My solar panels are UP: 2x 200w panels! Special thanks again to DJMoyer. We did mine like he did his, with roof attachments from DIYVan (great design, BTW), steel struts and L-brackets that DJ made––which means we got to mount them crosswise. It was some delicate work tightening the bolts on the inside, but we did it!


74685
 

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2021 1500 136"WB High top
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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Next up: My cushions and curtain! We have three days of rain coming, so I guess it's time to sew. Since the most heat / cold is lost through the cab and cargo door, I decided to make an insulated curtain and mount it on this rod:

Amazon.com: Sikaiqi Stretchable 304 Stainless L Shaped Bathroom Bathtub Corner Shower Curtain Rod Rack ( Black 35.43"-51.18"x35.43"-51.18"): Home & Kitchen

The curtain will be one piece, and when open, will sit in the corner behind the passenger seat.

I got the material from here:

Hannigan Salsa Ribbed With Squares Red Upholstery Fabric

And this is the insulation:

The Warm Company Cotton Batting - King

It will be a heavy curtain, so the rod will be held up in the corner. And it's dark fabric, but so much of the van is white, I think it will look good. Heavy fabric like this is usually insanely expensive and I need a lot of it, so I picked from this store what would look good. I bought my cushion fabric from here and it's beautiful fabric. (although lighter red than in the pic)

Lantel White Dot Pattern Burgundy Wool Blended Upholstery Fabric
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Here are some pictures. I like the ceiling but the seams are ugly. I ordered 1/4" x 3/4" wood strips to cover them with. Hopefully they will bend around the curve. I can't decide if I want them white or stained Walnut. There's a lot of white in this van––the walls, furniture, ceiling and much of the floor pattern. The counters are really dark espresso, and then there's some walnut and b&w tile behind the sink. It could look cool to have the contrast.

I'll hold off to decide until the electric is in. Then I can test the plumbing and close up the walls and kitchen cabinet. I can't believe I actually did this!!

The curtain was kind of a disaster that turned into a gift. I hadn't ordered enough fabric, so I went to joanns to see if there was anything I could afford. I found this great B&W fabric that looks great with the floor and isn't so dark. I think the other would have been too dark once closed. I used it as lining and then didn't need any insulation. It's a really heavy curtain, we'll see if it's too heavy!

Next week I'm doing all things electric. I've been studying videos and buying all the stuff I need. I feel confident I can do it.

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my floor and backsplash:
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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
More progress! I learned how to do tongue and groove on the router table for the barn door and the cabinet/drawer faces. I had 2 difficulties:

1. the wood bowed a bit. I started by routing the long strip, then realized the wood bowed and routing the cut strips was better. I ended up routing a piece, then flipping it and routing it again. The slot was a little bigger that 1/4" in places, but it meant the slot for the panel lined up.

2. The router table is a piece of junk. I imagine there are even junkier tables. But this one didn't lend itself to perfection in any way.

3. When doing the tongue part, sometimes the router pulled at the wood, making the seam between rail & Stile imperfect. The solution was probably making several passes, but that didn't really help. I ended up clamping the wood to the guide and that helped.

Here are the finished doors (except for paint). The right door gets an acrylic mirror. I still need to add the header to the shower. I still need to do the shower walls, which I can't do until the electric is done, because I can't test the plumbing for leaks until I can turn on the water pump. If I had all this to do over, I would do things in this order:

1. Floor
2. solar, skylight, fan
3. plumbing & Electric.
4. everything else.

I couldn't do that because those top 3 items were the ones I knew the least about, so I couldn't imagine placement, and they terrified me. I needed to start with what I knew. And I didn't know Dennis, who has been a great friend and a great help in the roof stuff.

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But yesterday I started the electric!!

I bought a Lynx power in for my busbars and I did a hack to make it hold the fuses. Then I put the fuses in place and all the cables coming out of it. I still need to hook everything up.

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And I started wiring the lights. The black tape on two of them is because the heat shrink discolored the light's wire, like it was starting to melt it. There is a learning curve on this...

The wires are white, with one side having black dashes. I tested them with the meter, but I'm not sure I did that right. Looks like the black-dashed wire is negative. Anyone have any input on this?

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I found plastic ceiling strips to cover the ugly seams! And I ordered screw caps to cover the screws. I'm sure I will have to glue them on, after painting the screws white.

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I realized the reading lights I had planned weren't going to work. One is 120v instead of 12v. The other is 220v! So I found a new option that I like even more. It involves building a shelf to match the one over the kitchen counter.

The "home" sign in a 3d decorative Item I bought from Joann's and I'll paint it black.

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FINALLY... I had a helper. BeaR supervised the whole thing. He believes in safety first. 🤓 🤓 🤓


IMG_2036.jpg


:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
Here is how I'm securing my overhead bin. All of you with better tools can probably do it much better. My goal was to install the overhead bin and have it securely bolted to the van.

I bought a metal piece from Home Depot. It's something like 1" x 8". Then I bolted 2 long bolts to it, a washer on the back side and a nut holding it tight on the outside. I couldn't drill through the metal strip. So instead I held it in place with a block of wood.

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It fits through these holes on the bin. The one bold can't fit a nut, but it's still holding the bin in place. The other bolt gets a nut.
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On the other end, this angle bracket attaches to the back rail of the bin.
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Then the back of the bin gets screwed to the furring strip fixed to the van.

It's not a pretty fix like what so many of the people here can do. But it will hold the bin up if it's ever in accident.
 

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In typical US 120v AC wiring the convention is this;

Green = ground
Black = Line
White = Neutral

"positive" doesn't really translate to 120v AC. Best to assume that both Line and Neutral wire can be live.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
1
In typical US 120v AC wiring the convention is this;

Green = ground
Black = Line
White = Neutral

"positive" doesn't really translate to 120v AC. Best to assume that both Line and Neutral wire can be live.
Thanks! I actually can't believe I'm doing this. But I am!! I'm sure I'll have more dumb questions. Like with the lights. You get into dc and red / black, now the black I think is negative because it is on the battery and on jumper cables. But since neg and pos doesn't translate to 120v I guess that means neg and pos didn't just switch colors on me.
 

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2019 159 EXT HR (3500) in WA
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The build is looking great.

The color-coding is not consistent at all between AC and DC. Just something you have to get used to :-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 · (Edited)
The build is looking great.

The color-coding is not consistent at all between AC and DC. Just something you have to get used to :-(
THANK YOU!! I'm really pleased so far. Fingers crossed I get the electric right and then when I test the plumbing nothing leaks.

I'm hooking up the electrical right now. I have the batteries in sleep/shelf mode. (Renogy gives you a small devise to wake them up or put them in storage.)

I figured I'd hook everything up like that, then, with the on/off switch on the solar and the busbar in the off position, and the inverter charger also in off, I'd wake them up.

Then I will turn on the off switch and program the inverter and the other elements if they need programing. (I haven't gotten to the DC to DC charger or the mppt rover yet, but I'm sure they need programing too.) Does that make sense?

Then I will turn everything off again and finish wiring the lights etc to the distribution panel.

There's so much to wire, the order to do it is a challenge.

***EDITED TO FIX BUNGLED ROVER/SOLAR DISCONNECT HOOKUP

75279
 

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THANK YOU!! I'm really pleased so far. Fingers crossed I get the electric right and then when I test the plumbing nothing leaks.
If you are having trouble keeping the color code straight for AC and DC, I hope when you installed your Maxxair fan you noticed that the wires didn't follow standard DC colors. On mine they used black for positive and white for negative!

You may also run into marine duplex wire that has a red wire and a yellow wire instead of red and black.
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
1
If you are having trouble keeping the color code straight for AC and DC, I hope when you installed your Maxxair fan you noticed that the wires didn't follow standard DC colors. On mine they used black for positive and white for negative!
Yikes! I'll have to check and see. I probably did black to black. THANK YOU!!
 

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Doesn’t the breaker for the solar panels have to be before the MPPT and not between the MPPT and the Lynx?
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Doesn’t the breaker for the solar panels have to be before the MPPT and not between the MPPT and the Lynx?
Someone smarter than me needs to answer that. I think it would be more logical to cut the solar off before it enters any of the devices, for the health of the devices.
 

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Someone smarter than me needs to answer that. I think it would be more logical to cut the solar off before it enters any of the devices, for the health of the devices.
We did hook the solar panel wires directly into the breaker. I am glad that I didnt look at that drawing first!
 

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Discussion Starter · #180 · (Edited)
We did hook the solar panel wires directly into the breaker. I am glad that I didn't look at that drawing first!
Oops! Yeah, the drawing is wrong. In my head they always cut off the solar before entering Rover. My bad artwork probably confused you @MaggieMarty ! so sorry. ***I EDITED THE DRAWING BECAUSE THE DISCONNECT SWITCH AND THE ROVER HOOKUP WERE WRONG

BTW, I got the DC/DC cables behind the shower!! I'm not closing it up completely until we know they're long enough. I wish I'd ordered them a foot longer, but I think it will be okay.
 
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