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2021 1500 136"WB High top
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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
I can take a picture of our solution tomorrow for our water tank. It’s really very simple. We don’t have hot water so I can’t advise there.
ThANk you, that would be great!
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
Here's what the hot water tank manual says:

Install a discharge pipe from the temperature/pressure relief valve terminating at a sink or drain.

Aren't there vents behind those black panels by the back doors? Could I thread the pipe out that way?
 

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I drilled a hole in the floor in front of my water heater, glued in PVC, and ran some vinyl tubing from the heater pressure relief through the floor.

Water tank vent I ran straight up a foot and a half or so. I figure that should be good enough to not spill while driving, but haven't test drove yet.
 

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A whale or a boat! Boatbuilders have techniques for scribing curves to fit bulkheads, etc. Embrace the curves, don't fight them ;)
This deserves repeating. A lot of valuable space is sacrificed by those who force straight lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
My storage shelf. It gets mounted above the sink but I can't decide whether to paint it all white or 2 tones of dark wood. I'll have to test the poplar and see if it will stain to a dark espresso color. I've got a lot of white in this van, so this could be a nice accent painted dark.

I cut the top and bottom 3.5"x 33", the sides 3.25" x23" and the shelves 3" deep. That way the 1.5" x .25" poplar strips sit nice and cover all the nails. The jars stay put because of the lip, but I might put magnets on the bottom of the jars, especially on the three tall spaghetti jars that go in the center.

73888
 

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As much as I like magnets, you need more. The problem is that the directional force you would use to remove the jar (tilt the top outward) is exactly what it would do in a sharp curve.

You need something to hold the tops in place.

And BTW, that's some really nice cabinet making. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
As much as I like magnets, you need more. The problem is that the directional force you would use to remove the jar (tilt the top outward) is exactly what it would do in a sharp curve.

You need something to hold the tops in place.

And BTW, that's some really nice cabinet making. :)
Thanks! My plan was to make it so the jars were the height of the open space and just a little narrower than the shelf width, so the only way to get them out was to lift straight up and pull out, But I screwed up on attaching the 1.5x.25 strips and had to get smaller jars. I think I can make inserts for when traveling that are held in place by the lip created by the 1.5x.25 strip lip. The third option is chord or maybe clear elastic, but I'm trying to avoid that. I did buy plastic jars, just in case....
 

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If you can lift it and pull straight out, it will find a way to lift itself and go straight out when you don’t want it to.

This is one place where the boat analogy fails to a certain extent. Like boats, our vans need stuff secured so it won’t get loose, but we must also respect the G forces that would be involved in a potential accident.
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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My storage shelf. It gets mounted above the sink but I can't decide whether to paint it all white or 2 tones of dark wood. I'll have to test the poplar and see if it will stain to a dark espresso color. I've got a lot of white in this van, so this could be a nice accent painted dark.

I cut the top and bottom 3.5"x 33", the sides 3.25" x23" and the shelves 3" deep. That way the 1.5" x .25" poplar strips sit nice and cover all the nails. The jars stay put because of the lip, but I might put magnets on the bottom of the jars, especially on the three tall spaghetti jars that go in the center.
Those are great looking cabinets. I am wondering if those jars will be clinking and clanking from every bump in the road. Have you tried thumping the cabinets to see it they make noise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
... we must also respect the G forces that would be involved in a potential accident.
This was my biggest concern with the designing of the built-in elements. Everything is bolted and screwed to the walls, the floor and whatever piece is next to it. Even this piece is solidly screwed together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Those are great looking cabinets. I am wondering if those jars will be clinking and clanking from every bump in the road. Have you tried thumping the cabinets to see it they make noise?
Thank you! I imagine there will be clinking and clanking. Even just having stuff in cabinets must make noise. I've not attached the back yet because I need to paint it separate from the shelves, but once it's up I'll do a test drive and see what I'm up against.
 

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Lola, I like your design...how about fastening a length of bungee cord across the openings, attached to the inside of the face frames? One piece could go the entire length of the cabinet passing through holes in the intermediate vertical members.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Lola, I like your design...how about fastening a length of bungee cord across the openings, attached to the inside of the face frames? One piece could go the entire length of the cabinet passing through holes in the intermediate vertical members.
Thanks! Love your idea of drilling holes!
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
If you're using jars with screw on caps, why not screw the tops to the top of the cabinet area and thread the jars onto the attached caps. No movement, no noise!
Very clever! That totally works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Special thanks to DJMoyer, who helped me install my Maxxair fan and skylight today. He has an amazing garage with really high ceilings and zillions of tools. He's a very smart and an all around great guy. I learned so much working with him, and he was kind and patient with my newbieism! He's also helping me install my solar panels, using DIYVan roof attachments, a steel rail and these L-brackets he cuts off a big piece of metal (something like that). These giant panels are going crosswise! I'm going to make DJmoyer window covers, maybe a curtain... really help him with anything he needs. Big thanks to Promaster forum for the connection!

So I'm thinking through the prospect of cutting holes in the floor of the van. I need the sink and the shower drains to go to the grey water tank. Unless I rip something apart, that's 2 holes, right, or am I missing something? Is it no big deal to cut these holes and I'm making more it it that a person should? I also need the hot water tank's pressure release to vent outside of the van––a third hole. I'll have to cut through 3/4" plywood, 1" foam insulation and the floor. That seems like a lot of thicknesses. What's the best tool to do all that?

Here is a nighttime view through my skylight! It's not much of a picture, but I'm so happy with the idea of looking up at the stars. :love:

74245
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 · (Edited)
I also made my overhead bin! (just one, on passenger side.) It looks ugly in this photo because I need to put the finished wall and ceiling up behind it, and add the doors & trim. I secured it with giant nuts and bolts, with washers behind pre-made holes in the van, so i think it's really secure. It's angled, so as to follow the curve of the van and take up less space. My carpentry isn't perfect, but I think I can make it look good.

I'm getting a paint sprayer. A cheap one. These two were reviewed well. What do you think? The tin ceiling will be oil based, a primer so it's rust proof, and I think I'm painting it white. Then the walls & furniture will be painted with water based primer and paint.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083CZ6ZQ5?tag=paintsprayerpro-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1&keywords=Paint Sprayer

HomeRight Finish Max Fine Finish HVLP Sprayer-C900076.M - The Home Depot




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74246
 

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Hole saw for drilling through the floor. I stuck a PVC nipple in the holes. Measured underneath to make sure I'd come out in a good spot.
 
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