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Discussion Starter #1
I’m putting in my bed and see that my floor sits at about 1.8 degrees. That equals about a 2 inch drop across my 5 foot wide bed (width running back to front ). I thought about making it adjustable but after seeing that 400 more pounds in the back could not be seen as a difference on my level I will just level it as is and forget about it. Any other thoughts?
I know that the Class A guys get all teck about level when they park and I am wondering if it is about sleeping comfort or other things as well?
 

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My bed is across the van at the back doors. Only a couple times have I actually used our levelling blocks. Seldom do I have the van close to perfectly level. I get it close enough. I just change which way I'm sleeping so that my head is on the high side. Its the side-side tilt of the bed that gets annoying if its too much.

Even with my bed where it is, I still try to get close to level front-back on the van, and usually do quite well. I think you'll find there's lots of places where you can park to have the rear axle just a bit lower than the front, to level out the interior.

Also, the Class A folks are more in need of 'level' because of slides, residential fridges, and just general requirements of perfection. My 12v compressor fridge is functional at up to 15 degrees tilt, I'm not to worried about level. If I can walk around without holding on to things, its close enough.
 

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2014 136” HR
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We have found it to be a non-issue. Big guys stress with their propane fridges.

I have a cheap bullseye level that I put on top of the battery box. If the bubble is anywhere near center, we're good to go.
 

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We sleep across. I find the back of the van high enough so that in a flat parking lot it is nearly out of our tolerance for rolling forward in bed. No we won’t roll out but we find ourselves at the forward edge in the night. Most campsites are not really level so we either back in if it is downhill or drive in if it is uphill. This is not a perfect solution and I do cary three blocks (obviously 4 would not be used!) I still feel it would be better if the rear was about 2-3” lower. I haven’t done either a spring-ectomy or re-camber...... yet
 

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My spring guy that does suspension for lots of big trucks thinks it looks great and so far has talked me out of lowering it. He thinks it looks Old School Kool. I think mine is 2” higher than MsNomers!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We sleep across. I find the back of the van high enough so that in a flat parking lot it is nearly out of our tolerance for rolling forward in bed. ... I still feel it would be better if the rear was about 2-3” lower. ...


So, this is my solution for that. My bed will be 5 foot wide and I dropped the ledger angle 2 inches to make it level. I am mentioning it here because I have not seen people doing it.
 

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So, this is my solution for that. My bed will be 5 foot wide and I dropped the ledger angle 2 inches to make it level. I am mentioning it here because I have not seen people doing it.
After our last trip I'm considering modifying the bed to do just that - be level when the van is parked on a level surface rather than having it like it is now - parallel with the floor of the van. It may look a little funny but I got a work out trying not to slide out of bed at night. I refused to turn the van around in the spot because the passenger slider opened right to the ocean. :D
 

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2014-159 HR in CT
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OR, you could do a custom mod...



...almost as handy as a Leatherman!

As I was designing mine, I decided to run the couch/beds parallel to the side walls. That has worked out very well. The headboard end is the end where I have the partition, which is at the back end of the van, so on level ground, your head is a bit higher.... works out well!



I'm still thinking about a pair of these... https://youtu.be/b4JQV15VzBc I think they would solve lots of leveling issues quickly!

ed
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bed frame ready for paint.

Angle 2 ½" x 2 ½" x 3/16" with 1 1/4" tubing.


5 @½" A325 bolts through each ledger into van side rail.


Front angle is aluminum because I had it. Would be best if it were all aluminum but I did not want to pay for it. Tubes are galvanized because I had them. I could get the steel angles galvanized with free trucking for about $20 but I don’t know when I would get that opportunity and I don’t want to wait for that. I bought the angle in a 20 foot length for $27.
 

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2014 3500ext Gas - VA
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It All Levels Out in the End

Like others, my 3500 ext started out with a pronounced forward tilt. Early in the build I considered compensating for the tilt but I went forward with building my bed level to the floor thinking I could level the van as needed. Turns out, my van self leveled. My build was pretty extensive with me adding approx 2600lbs... which dropped the rear by approx 1" and settled the ride out nicely. The forward tilt is now small enough that I can usually level the van just by nosing into a gentle upslope. I'm not sure how much weight you plan to add, but in the end it usually "self levels" the van to some degree.
Best,
Phranc
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I really doubt that I will level my floor with the weight of my build, if the van will haul 2 tons.
I left some tilt to the ledgers for that and some adjustment later would not be hard.
 

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This may explain why mine is so high in the rear.... I’d guess my conversion weighs less than 500 lbs. counting the batteries. I say this having taken the parts out several times. That may explain my excellent mileage too.
 

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if you are old like me, body must be angled up when sleeping anyway! will save on buying another triangle pillow!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
if you are old like me, body must be angled up when sleeping anyway! will save on buying another triangle pillow!
But it don't work that way.
My bed is 6'-3 across the width of the van and 5'-0 from back to front of the van.
It's more like the feeling of wanting to keep yourself from rolling, not weather your head is higher or lower.
 
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