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Discussion Starter #1
Started the conversion this week on my 2017 159 Gas.

Maxxfan is in. I used the fan roof adapter for Hein at Impact Inc.. The adapter made the install a breeze. If you anyone is installing a fan, this adapter is a must.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Promaster-Roof-Vent-Adapter-/141927089804?var=&hash=item210b83868c:m:mgKC1Xy8cwpEYkc4NZeaxiQ&vxp=mtr

Here's the van with the fan installed.



I started the insulation with the front doors. I used 3m thinsulate ordered from Impact Inc.. I've never used this product, but seem to be a good product. I taped the insulating to the door panels. Due to sensitivity to the contact cement glues I cant use the spray glues. The aluminum insulation tape holds very well and is not affected by heat or cold.

Here's a pic of the door with the lower half insulation installed.

 

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Good luck with the build. Quick question to those in the know, what is the best method to insulate the front doors, given the space required for the window glass, etc? From your photo it looks like the best you can do is to insulate the space below where the window recesses. That would leave a big un-insulated space above, no? Thanks.
 

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I looked at it and decided not to do the front doors. I have a heavy curtain that separates the van interior from the cab and use that for some thermal and light protection. The slider and rear doors have 1” of polyiso sheet glued in.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good luck with the build. Quick question to those in the know, what is the best method to insulate the front doors, given the space required for the window glass, etc? From your photo it looks like the best you can do is to insulate the space below where the window recesses. That would leave a big un-insulated space above, no? Thanks.


I did insulate the upper part of the door also. The thinsulate worked great. I cut in shape of the door and slide it behind the window guide rails.

You have to do it in two pieces because of the reinforcement where I taped the lower section of insulation. This reinforced piece has a lip on top and bottom. Tuck in the insulation behind and use tape to hold on place and out of the way of the window.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got the over cab insulation in. Very easy process. Removed corner black foam protectors and headliner by popping out the clips. Taped in some Thinsulate and Reflextics then reinstalled the headliner over. Snapped all the clips back and done.
 

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Started the conversion this week on my 2017 159 Gas.

Maxxfan is in. I used the fan roof adapter for Hein at Impact Inc.. The adapter made the install a breeze. If you anyone is installing a fan, this adapter is a must.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Promaster-Roof-Vent-Adapter-/141927089804?var=&hash=item210b83868c:m:mgKC1Xy8cwpEYkc4NZeaxiQ&vxp=mtr

Here's the van with the fan installed.



I started the insulation with the front doors. I used 3m thinsulate ordered from Impact Inc.. I've never used this product, but seem to be a good product. I taped the insulating to the door panels. Due to sensitivity to the contact cement glues I cant use the spray glues. The aluminum insulation tape holds very well and is not affected by heat or cold.

Here's a pic of the door with the lower half insulation installed.

Good job..
Ssooooo..
That roof adapter for the fan is 57$..
And I need 2 of them?
Wow.. 120$ for an easier install and STILL have to waterproof?
I was thinking 57 for a pair... but, nooooooo.
Dammmnnnnn
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I only bought the exterior one. On the interior I used a wood frame. No matter what you use, you will have to use lap sealant to make sure you don't have leaks
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Went to pick up my CRL windows this weekend. Wow is that place big! They have a compound 2 blocks of warehouses.



The installation was pretty straight forward. I was a little worried because of people having trouble with the stock cutout on the inside of the panel being larger than the window. At the end the only difference in the cutout was at the bottom by about 1/8". Top and sides are perfectly matched.

I know it's been done on this and other forums, but I'll do my own step by step installation.

Step 1: Cut one side panel of the packaging box off.

Step 2: Place the window glass side down on top of the cardboard and trace around the window's edges.



Step 3: Cut the cardboard to size.





Step 4: Measure form the frame to the edge of the glass. Measure all sides.





Step 5: On the cardboard measure from edge in and draw a line on all sides corresponding with the window. Mark top and bottom. Sides are equal.



Step 6: Place the inter ring on the cardboard and lineup the ring with the lines. I taped the split ends of the ring together for easier handling. Make sure the ring is square and draw in the rounded corners. Cut the center out.



Step 7: Secure the template on the van with tape. I positioned the top edge right up against top lip of the window indent on the door. The front and rear edges should be perfectly flush with door edge. Use a sharpe to trace the inner edge. Remove template. This will be you cutout.



Step 8: Tape around the line out about 4 inches so you don't scratch the paint with the jigsaw. Drill hole and cut around on the inside about 1/2" of the line. Remove the panel. Now it will be easier to work on getting a good straight line and not have to worry about a large peace of panelling vibrating around. Cut on your line and check the inside to see how you are lined up with the van stock cutout lines. Like I said in the beginning you should be pretty much exactly in line with the inside cutout lines except the bottom.







Step 9: File the edges and test fit the window.

Step 10: Paint the raw metal edge you just cut.

Step 11: Put window in and screw the inner ring on.







 

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How is the ventilation with the windows and Maxxair? I like the looks of the CRL Windows and I like you open and close the windows with the screen still in place, but the vented area seems small especially with only half the sliding door vent area ventable, and single pane will transfer more heat. So 2 plus and 2 minus.:confused: :|
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just got back from my maiden trip to Denver to visit my brother. From Newport Beach I took the 40 East through Albuquerque to see friends and then 25 North to Denver. Came back over the mountains on I70. Here's my computer trip screen when I got back home.



Lots of mountain driving. Tested the ProMaster on some snow and off road in the desert.





I was very impressed with the handling on the mountain roads and off road. The seats were comfortable in a 5 day 2,400mi. trip. I slept in the van 2 nights. One night was in the mid 20s and one was mid teens. Most of the van is insulated with thinsulate and reflectix over. The walls with the reflectix over the thinsulate were drastically warmer. My floor is not insulated yet and that made the van very cold, so some good floor insulation is a must. I ran the front heater to warm the van and got into my sleeping bag and only got up once to start the engine and re heat the van. It's good to know in a pinch the front heater can handle heating the van. I slept on the back wood platform I built for the trip and my son slept on the bench part. All in all, I was pleased with the performance and can't wait to finish the buildout.
 

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Just got back from my maiden trip to Denver to visit my brother. From Newport Beach I took the 40 East through Albuquerque to see friends and then 25 North to Denver. Came back over the mountains on I70. Here's my computer trip screen when I got back home.



Lots of mountain driving. Tested the ProMaster on some snow and off road in the desert.





I was very impressed with the handling on the mountain roads and off road. The seats were comfortable in a 5 day 2,400mi. trip. I slept in the van 2 nights. One night was in the mid 20s and one was mid teens. Most of the van is insulated with thinsulate and reflectix over. The walls with the reflectix over the thinsulate were drastically warmer. My floor is not insulated yet and that made the van very cold, so some good floor insulation is a must. I ran the front heater to warm the van and got into my sleeping bag and only got up once to start the engine and re heat the van. It's good to know in a pinch the front heater can handle heating the van. I slept on the back wood platform I built for the trip and my son slept on the bench part. All in all, I was pleased with the performance and can't wait to finish the buildout.
Love the off-road image! Not even 'completed' and you're enjoying your PM. I need to have that attitude as ours progesses. Great write up too.
Curious what radio/navi/trip computer?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's the uconnect 5 radio without Nav.

Get out and enjoy your PM! It will only get better as your build progresses.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ted- I don't have the fan connected yet. I'm waiting on some of the other electric components in. It should vent really well if both sides windows are open.
 

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Thank you cutndry for your thorough description and imagery with your window install. I'm about to install a C.R. Laurence window almost identical to yours (mine's a fixed window) in my sliding door and want to make sure on something. You did not use any urethane or other type of sealant or adhesive? The closed cell foam that comes attached to the window compressed against the metal is the only seal?

Thanks very much - Mountain Time
 
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