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Premium Member
2018 136 HR Ont.
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I installed Aukee H7 LED Headlights, 50W 6000K 10000 Lumens Extremely Bright Bulb CSP Chips Conversion Kit in low beam location. I will be moving them to the high beam location, I ordered but was not pleased with the KOOMTOOM H7 Led Headlight Bulb 5000K for low beams. I am still looking for replacement bulbs. I think I would prefer to have 5000K for regular driving, the 6000K really light up the road but they are very white.

Factory bulbs
74446


6000K led bulbs
74447


One of each
74448


Left led only
74449


Right factory only
74451


Here is a closer shot of the beam showing there is no glare or scatter that will blind other drivers.
74471


Adapter installed with shortened #6 screws. The plastic is very soft so don't oversize the hole in the bucket or the screws could strip.
74452


It was a easy to check the air intake seal contact while the right headlight was out.
74453
 

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2019 159 EXT HR (3500) in WA
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1,224 Posts
Kudos to @83Grumman for taking photos and verifying the pattern and aiming.

I did the high beam conversion using the Aukee bulbs. I'm very happy with that.

I also did the DRL LED conversion using the SeaLight 7440 LED bulbs. These work well also.

<ascend soapbox>

However, I don't agree with putting any LED in the low beam.

The LED beam pattern is not as good as the original halogen (no matter what color temperature you choose) and you will be joining the legion of people with dangerous, glaring LED low beam headlights.

You should be able to see the glare if you train your camera up into the dark area above the bright spots. You'll see that the OEM light that is above the cutoff is much darker than the light above the cutoff for the LED. It is this overspray light that creates the glare.

Here is a pic of the Aukee H7 bulbs in the high beam location:




That weird trapezoid is created because the light-emitting area of the LED is not as tiny, symetrical, and small as the halogen filament. The reflector is designed for the near-point-source of a halogen filament, and having the much larger (though admittedly still small) LED source makes the reflector's shape wrong, so you get the weird artifacts, and you get to spray glare at other drivers.

There is no LED available now that concentrates its light into the tiny spacial volume the way halogen filament does. The Aukee gets close, and is much better than many others:



which is why I chose it for my high beam -- but I wouldn't use it (or any other LED) in the low beam out of respect for oncoming drivers.

My reasoning:

High beams are LED: They are fantastically bright and will be dimmed if there is any oncoming or proceeding traffic.

DRL are LED: They are more visible during the day, and glare is not an issue since it is daylight and there is a lot of ambient light. Plus the 7440 style LED bulbs are an order of magnitude less bright than the Aukee H7 LED.

Low Beams are Halogen: The precise location and size of the halogen filament combined with the design of the reflector assure me that I am not the a**hole that is spraying glaring LED lights into oncoming traffic. The low beams only get used when there are other vehicles near, so I can use their lights as a guide and I am not in need of super bright lights to find my way around and avoid obstacles.

(good) Fog lights are Halogen: The cutoff for fog lights is super critical, since their own overspray bounces off the oncoming for or snow and blinds you. The OEM fog lights are crap in this respect, so we put in some good Hella Projector fog lights that are fantastic.

<descend soapbox>
 

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LEDs in the low beam position is one of my favorite mods I've done to my van. I did have to re adjust the beam to keep from blinding people. But after I lowered them I've had no more issues with that.
I'd like to also do the high beams but I also have LED driving lights in the factory fog position that come on with the highs so it's already very bright
 

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One note about LED and one comment

Most LED bulbs can be rotated to allow better reflection/pattern.

I received a recall on the LED's that I installed on my wife's car because they were to bright. Needless to say I ignored it ... :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 

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Premium Member
2018 136 HR Ont.
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660 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
However, I don't agree with putting any LED in the low beam.

The LED beam pattern is not as good as the original halogen (no matter what color temperature you choose) and you will be joining the legion of people with dangerous, glaring LED low beam headlights.

You should be able to see the glare if you train your camera up into the dark area above the bright spots. You'll see that the OEM light that is above the cutoff is much darker than the light above the cutoff for the LED. It is this overspray light that creates the glare.
I can't detect the trapezoid that I see in your pics, maybe I will seem them when I install led bulbs in the high beams. What was your install method?

With better low beams I won't be the a** with the highs beams on following you thinking I'm far enough away when I'm not.

I will take some more pics after dark to make sure.
On Styrofoam
74456


Less exposure
74457


74458
 

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2019 159 EXT HR (3500) in WA
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Huh. I do not see that in your photos either. Maybe the low beams do not have the same issue that the high beams have.

For my mounting, I just used Permatex high temp RTV that I had leftover from the heater install to glue the mounting ring from the Aukee into the headlight housing. So far, so good.

I guess the proof will come if people blink you when you are already on low beams.

In my particular branch of the woods, there are many high-sitting vehicles that have nasty LED glare, so it is my pet peeve. Give them a flick of the lights and they invariably blast the living crap out of you with the high beams often leaving them on until they pass.
 

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I can't detect the trapezoid that I see in your pics, maybe I will seem them when I install led bulbs in the high beams. What was your install method?

With better low beams I won't be the a** with the highs beams on following you thinking I'm far enough away when I'm not.

I will take some more pics after dark to make sure.
On Styrofoam
View attachment 74456

Less exposure
View attachment 74457

View attachment 74458
Thanks for the write up! The conversion adapter from Aukee does seem like the best bet. My only concern is that they're fan cooled (vs. passively cooled). Have you run them for long enough that you're not concerned about heat build up? Also, did you settle on which bulbs you'll use for the low beams? Right now I'm leaning towards the Aukee's in the lows given the lack of light spillover even with the high color temperature. I have used the much more expensive morimoto's in another car, and they do have a decent color output (5500K, but I'm guessing better CRI than most). However, I believe someone on the forum attempted those and found the fit was not go...
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have not had them long enough to make a call about the heat output. I tried the KOOMTOOM H7 Led Headlight Bulb but the beam was not as clean. I noticed the led placement was different (longer) than the stock and Aukee. I will use Aukee in high and low beams. If I blow a low beam I could move one from the high beams if they are the same.
 

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So I finally took the van on a short trip to town where I could use the headlights coming home.

During testing the Aukee LED high beam headlights worked as expected so I did not mess around with any kind of CAN bus resistor / decoder thing at all.

The trip is not long, maybe 15 minutes and because there was traffic I would only able to play with a high beams for a few seconds at any time.

The last bit of the trip is a gravel road without any traffic so I just turned them on and left them on.

In less than a minute, one then another would turn off. Once I got parked I took this video:


The video shows the Aukee LED lights staying on for only a few seconds.

After the van was off for about half an hour I went back out to mess with it again. At that point I was able to run the high beams with the engine off for several minutes with neither one blinking out.

I then started the engine and let it idle for several minutes and neither one blinked out either.

My questions:

1) Has anybody else using the Aukee LEDs at any issues with them turning off?

2) Is there a way to use the OBDII tools to fix this? ( @LarryK ). I have the reader but I'm waiting on my yellow cable.

3) Alternatively I can purchase the CAN bus decoder / resistor things. Has anybody tried that?

I plan to take some current readings of the halogen bulb versus the LED bulb. That will give us some more information. It will be a bit before I can get that data though.
 

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I did a very quick skim of this web site that describes a few of the different brands.

None of them seem to provide any information on the spectrum / CRI or R9 (red content), only the color temperature and brightness.

The spectral output of a light has a very large impact on the ability to quickly recognize objects - often more important than the brightness.
 

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2019 159 EXT HR (3500) in WA
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Ours have never shut off like that. Are the fans working and not covered up?
The fans are running -- they are inside the headlight housing - which is sealed with those big screw-in caps. Is that how yours are installed?

One thing that is different is that most people here used

"Aukee H7 LED Bulbs, 50W 6000K 10000 Lumens Extremely Bright CSP Chips Conversion Kit Replacement Low Fog Light" ($32.99)

And I used:

"H7 LED Headlight Bulb, Aukee 110W High Power 18,000LM Extremely Bright 6000K Cool White CSP Chips Conversion Kit Adjustable Beam" ($59.99)

So maybe they draw too much current? I plan to get out there and measure the current of the LED bulbs vs the original Halogen bulbs. This test will also tell me if the power to the bulb is getting interrupted by some CAN bus black magick.

I will say (for the short time they come on) that they are seriously bright as f*ck. I would not think of activating them if any traffic were visible.
 

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2018 136" HR
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The CAN bus is shutting it out once it pass some specific wattage. I had similar issue when I tried to use 100w bulbs in my low beam, it will only turn on for a sec before the CAN bus shut it off. I was able to use 80w bulb(low beam) no issue and headlight is on day or night. Your issue is probably the LED bulb heats up and creates more resistance which increase draw. Then the CANbus shut it off when draw pass the allowable limits.
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
They are only 5w more per bulb.

  • High brightness h7 LED headlight bulbs, CSP LED chips, 55W per bulb, High luminous efficacy flux up to 9000 LM per bulb, Even light pattern without any dark spot, Super bright light center
Bulb TypeLED
Special FeaturesThe Brightest LED headlights on the market, 110W/Pair,55W/Bulb, Up to 50,000 hours life, 0.00s fast bright, 18,000LM/Pair, 9,000LM/Bulb
Wattage55 watts
 

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2019 159 EXT HR (3500) in WA
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I compared the halogen bulb current draw and power consumption compared to the Aukee 18000 Lumen LED:



The LED power (yellow) is less than the halogen power at all times except for the little bump centered around 10.7v.

The source data is available in an Excel Worksheet.

Here is a video of how I measured it:

So the next step is to figure out why they are turning off. They would turn off at idle after running them on the road, but they do not turn off in the shop, even at a fast idle. My plan is to bring a temporary wire from the headlight terminals into the cab, and then drive around until they go off. If the wire has power, then the LED turned itself off (possible heat issue). If there is no power then the ProMaster's computer turned it off for some reason.
 

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2018 159 High Roof gas, BC, Canada
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I installed Aukee H7 LED Headlights, 50W 6000K 10000 Lumens Extremely Bright Bulb CSP Chips Conversion Kit in low beam location. I will be moving them to the high beam location, I ordered but was not pleased with the KOOMTOOM H7 Led Headlight Bulb 5000K for low beams. I am still looking for replacement bulbs. I think I would prefer to have 5000K for regular driving, the 6000K really light up the road but they are very white.
Since you're from Canada, I'm thinking you ordered it from a Canadian source. Would you have a link to the exact item you purchased?

I'm considering swapping to LED despite not having any issues with my halogen bulbs. (For me, none have burnt out (though it's early days still, 10,000 Km only) and they're bright enough).

It's more of a preemptive measure as I've read too many stories of bulbs burning out and I don't want to have to deal with something like that when on the road far from home (which is all of my driving).

I too would prefer 5000K.
 

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2018 136 HR Ont.
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660 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Since you're from Canada, I'm thinking you ordered it from a Canadian source. Would you have a link to the exact item you purchased?

I tried clicking on previous orders but I got this.
74966


This is from my previous orders page.
EDIT - I can't find these anymore.
74967
 
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