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LED conversion for Promaster headlights

1262 Views 26 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  MileHighVannin
As I understand it both low and high beams use H7 socket, so you need an adaptor to make room for the heat sinks/fans of LED lights. The no-brainer choice would be to use the OpenGlass kit which seems to come with everything ( Promaster, Hymer Aktiv, and Winnebago Solis Accessories ).

However the best LED for the Promaster looks like the Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 with its H7 adaptor--only that's a general purpose adaptor. I don't know whether it works in the Promaster headlight nacelle. Especially since the OpenGlass kit provides different adapters for the low and high beam sockets, even though both are H7s.


You can get LED bulbs that fit without adaptors because they have no bulgy heat sinks. They also provide less illumination and burn out in a year, or so I've heard. That does not sound like a solution to me, especially since you have to take out the Promaster headlight nacelle to change the bulbs.

For other LED bulbs I get the impression that they require modifying things in there--gluing/drilling--which I don't want to do.

My biggest concern is making sure they don't blind oncoming drivers. The Morimoto is carefully designed to exactly mimic the optics of a halogen bulb in terms of beam pattern. I hope the OpenGlass does the same but I don't know. I've queried them. The Morimoto also has a unique cooling system that blows air onto the LEDs taken from within the nacelle. That would melt ice on the nacelle's exterior, though that's not much a consideration for me given where I live and go camping. But Yellowstone might make that relevant.

I'm climbing up this learning curve bit by bit. If anyone has LED headlight experience to share I'm all ears. We have the factory fog lights BTW. Morimoto makes H11 bulbs that I guess would fit but they also make a "universal fit" complete fog light in housing. I'd love to know if that could go in there easily. They make fog lights with a lot of different custom brackets, but not one for the Promaster AFAIK. Would the Universal model fit?

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The PM does not use a H7 socket. Those have 3 tabs, the PM has one tab. I bought a pair of these recently:

Lasfit LED bulbs

They have two tabs which kinda work, but there is still a "nub" sticking up at the bottom pf the PM socket. These bulbs do not have an indent for it, so the bulb rocks back and forth slightly, causing alignment issues. I have fiddle farted around with these LED's for correct install, and they are a disappointment. No cut off line, and a bluish tinted scattered beam.....almost as bad as the OEM bulb. I want a bright white light, not bluish.

Even though the Open Glass kit is expensive, all inmates here that have bought it are happy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Have you tried searching "LED headlights" on this forum? We've had numerous discussions over the years. Both successes and failures. There seem to be some now that don't require adapters. Kip's video here mentions one at about 4:30. I'm not sure which Oxilam model that is.
Might be this one...looks promising @ 6500K & 80 watts.
Oxilam LED bulbs
Have you tried searching "LED headlights" on this forum? We've had numerous discussions over the years. Both successes and failures. There seem to be some now that don't require adapters. Kip's video here mentions one at about 4:30. I'm not sure which Oxilam model that is.
I was alluding to the Oxilam--among some others--when I mentioned that some LED bulbs are easy to install because they don't have heat sinks and fans that stick out in back and interfere with the H7 mount. The problem is that such bulbs can't be as powerful---and that even so the lack of real heat sinks/fans greatly reduces their service life, with "a year" seeming to be the average.

Seems like when it comes to the laws of physics there are no free lunches.

As for searching on "LED headlights" of course I did. However, none that I saw were recent enough to take account of recent developments or of the track record of promising products that hadn't been in service long enough to have a track record.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The PM does not use a H7 socket. Those have 3 tabs, the PM has one tab. I bought a pair of these recently:

Lasfit LED bulbs

They have two tabs which kinda work, but there is still a "nub" sticking up at the bottom pf the PM socket. These bulbs do not have an indent for it, so the bulb rocks back and forth slightly, causing alignment issues. I have fiddle farted around with these LED's for correct install, and they are a disappointment. No cut off line, and a bluish tinted scattered beam.....almost as bad as the OEM bulb. I want a bright white light, not bluish.

Even though the Open Glass kit is expensive, all inmates here that have bought it are happy.
Your own link is for H7 bulbs. I've checked and double checked this issue, and the Promaster takes H7 bulbs for both high and low beam and H11 for the fog lights.

I predict the Lasfits will appear bright but have a relatively short service life, along with any headlight bulb that lacks a substantial heat sink and probably a fan as well.
 

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I also tried the aukee bulbs for high and low beams but mine required high temp rtv to hold the adapter in. It was an easy process and an easy removal. After the install I did not like the the light spread of the bulbs so I went back to the oem.
 

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I used the Aukee LED bulbs which appear to be the same as in the OpenGlass kit, fastening them in with two small screws. The new bulbs did need to be re aimed lower. All very do-able with a drill and a couple of hand tools.
I did the same thing - same lights... it took longer to get the headlight assembly out of the van than it did to install the bulbs with 2 small screws.... No one has flashed headlights at me so I didn't re-aim. I did both lo and hi beams (4 bulbs)
 

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"I predict the Lasfits will appear bright but have a relatively short service life, along with any headlight bulb that lacks a substantial heat sink and probably a fan as well. "

Maybe I am the dumb kid in a science class but any halogen bulb I have used is blazing hot and any LED has been ice cold. So why would I want or need a heat sink with a LED when none was provided with a halogen?
 

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I used the openglass led kit. Went with these because it included everything, no modifications needed. Didn’t even need to be adjusted after install, they were perfectly aligned. They are super bright. I have not had anyone flash at me that they were blinded. Well worth the money in my opinion.
 

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Sooo… just installed these for my low beams, based on Kip’s video a while back.


(Thing to know is that there are a couple versions of this: there’s an ‘older’ and a ‘newer’ version, and I don’t know which one Kip was using.) EDIT: see below for clarification.

I haven’t been out at night with these, so can’t comment yet on aim, etc, but I can say they went in easy (no rtv hacks — just plug and play) and look bright. I didn’t have any polarity issues; maybe I’m just lucky.

I did break a tab on the lower trim. I’m not that busted up about it, as it really isn’t that necessary as tabs go, but a long screwdriver pushed like so might release the tab without breakage. (Emphasis: might.)

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Oh, and forgot to say… pulling the trim off is ideally done with a PZ#3 (pozidrive, popular in Europe) but can be done with a regular Philips #3. A more common #2 Philips can work in a pinch, but you’ll mess the head eventually.

Edit: finally drove around the block in the dark, and either I installed badly or these need to be aimed or both.
 

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The screwdriver hack worked fine for me. There are two clips on the lower trim piece; one clip faces driver's side and one faces passenger side. After removing the phillips head screw I pressed the inboard clip toward the driver's side while lightly pulling on the trim and both clips released.
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Sooo… just installed these for my low beams, based on Kip’s video a while back.


(Thing to know is that there are a couple versions of this: there’s an ‘older’ and a ‘newer’ version, and I don’t know which one Kip was using.)

I haven’t been out at night with these, so can’t comment yet on aim, etc, but I can say they went in easy (no rtv hacks — just plug and play) and look bright. I didn’t have any polarity issues; maybe I’m just lucky.
Yeah, just based on the box, I wasn't sure which version Kip has either. Let us know how these perform.
 

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My Oxilam's came in yesterday....will post up the info and compare them to the Lasfit's with pic's soon. I'm getting pretty good at pulling the headlights out 🙃
 

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